Smoke in the house during start-up and a HECK of a lot more ash in the firebox.

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IceNine

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Dec 8, 2009
40
CT, by the water
So, When the stove was first set up the part that goes over the the thimble was broken so they could not set it up. What they did was run the liner all the way down to the stove and got it going.

A couple of weeks later, they came with all the parts and put in up and down pipe with 2-3 45 degree joints from the stove to the vertical pipe. Ever since then, startups take FOREVER and a day unless i hand feed pellet in the burn pot. Also, there's effin smoke coming out the 45 degree joints as the stove lights up. Good thing is that it happened when the tech was there setting everything up. he goes, oh it's failing to establish a draft. well no shift sherlock. if i wanted my house to smell like smoke i would've bought a wood stove. Once the fire gets going there's no more smoke coming out but that's because there's hardly any smoke in the firebox. also i noticed a CRAPload more ash in the firebox. So much that it started building up behind the feed tube and around the top of the burn pot. I'm definitely having some draft issues here. heat output is fine but this means more hard labor for yours truly. I'm not keen on work that can be avoided by doing something right in the first place. The current setup is almost a 1/2 circle of 45deg joint from the back of the pipe to the vertical pipe(4-5ft high). The tech that came out wants to now use flex pipe from the back of the stove into the vertical pipe to eliminate the joints. This guy has been out here 3 times now. I'm just pissed because he could've just avoided ALL this crap when he FIRST came to inspect the area where the stove was going to be installed. i was not home at the time (he just shows up and looks at it and goes, yep that'll do). now he's complaining about oh this setup would work great if it were a wood stove. Really a-hole?!?!? because guess what, when i purchased the stove i said, the hearth is existing from a WOOF BURNING STOVE!!!! I've got a carbon monoxide detector in the next room and right now it's still pegged at 0 so no worries there. just annoyed at this point that i have to open the door for 5 minutes during the stove lighting ceremony. I can't imagine if i lived further north. Would've shot the guy and buried him in my backyard. Not really, but very annoyed. the ash buildup is gray-ish black (that's good right) and very fluffy so it's not hard to clean or vacuum up. Burned all day yesterday and the glass is still just a tinge of gray so i'm getting good air to that fire. Can't suck up the ash though. BLECH!!!!! Hopefully when they isntall the flex pipe this will 1. fix the smoke issue and give me better draft. Stove has burned maybe <15 bags so far.
 
IceNine said:
So, When the stove was first set up the part that goes over the the thimble was broken so they could not set it up. What they did was run the liner all the way down to the stove and got it going.

A couple of weeks later, they came with all the parts and put in up and down pipe with 2-3 45 degree joints from the stove to the vertical pipe. Ever since then, startups take FOREVER and a day unless i hand feed pellet in the burn pot. Also, there's effin smoke coming out the 45 degree joints as the stove lights up. Good thing is that it happened when the tech was there setting everything up. he goes, oh it's failing to establish a draft. well no shift sherlock. if i wanted my house to smell like smoke i would've bought a wood stove. Once the fire gets going there's no more smoke coming out but that's because there's hardly any smoke in the firebox. also i noticed a CRAPload more ash in the firebox. So much that it started building up behind the feed tube and around the top of the burn pot. I'm definitely having some draft issues here. heat output is fine but this means more hard labor for yours truly. I'm not keen on work that can be avoided by doing something right in the first place. The current setup is almost a 1/2 circle of 45deg joint from the back of the pipe to the vertical pipe(4-5ft high). The tech that came out wants to now use flex pipe from the back of the stove into the vertical pipe to eliminate the joints. This guy has been out here 3 times now. I'm just pissed because he could've just avoided ALL this crap when he FIRST came to inspect the area where the stove was going to be installed. i was not home at the time (he just shows up and looks at it and goes, yep that'll do). now he's complaining about oh this setup would work great if it were a wood stove. Really a-hole?!?!? because guess what, when i purchased the stove i said, the hearth is existing from a WOOF BURNING STOVE!!!! I've got a carbon monoxide detector in the next room and right now it's still pegged at 0 so no worries there. just annoyed at this point that i have to open the door for 5 minutes during the stove lighting ceremony. I can't imagine if i lived further north. Would've shot the guy and buried him in my backyard. Not really, but very annoyed. the ash buildup is gray-ish black (that's good right) and very fluffy so it's not hard to clean or vacuum up. Burned all day yesterday and the glass is still just a tinge of gray so i'm getting good air to that fire. Can't suck up the ash though. BLECH!!!!! Hopefully when they isntall the flex pipe this will 1. fix the smoke issue and give me better draft. Stove has burned maybe <15 bags so far.

Hate to say it, but my suggestion is go back to square one.
 
IceNine, would you please post a picture of this venting nightmare?

What vent pipe did you use?

The long and short of it is, there should never be any smoke coming from any of those joints ever. The idiot would be all done at that point as far as I'd be concerned.

Glad to see you are an advocate of SSS, but you aren't supposed to talk about it, that is what the last S is all about ;-).
 
Here we go. tonight i noticed smoke from the joints AND the thimble connection. I've lost all faith in this guy. I'm about to call the shop (tomorrow anyway). Have been dealing exclusively with him for all this crap. Everything he's done is not working. Smokey i wish i could go back to square 1. Can't because they cut the liner in order to put in the regular piping. Now let's see if these pics worked. ok so it looks like there are only 2 45deg joints
 

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Ice, is that 3" or 4" pipe? Are all the joints either siliconed or taped?

I have some issues with all the bends.....the EVL is way up there.
 
Ice - Instead of running that "semi circle" section of pipe at the bottom, why can't the installer cut the vertical pipe (somewhere around the middle) and 45 degree over to the stove exhaust port?

Keep in mind I'm not an installer. Just asking the question.
 
IceNine,

What brand of vent is that and do those labels on it indicate the direction that is up? Believe it or not there actually is an up end to those critters and it makes a difference.

Looks like the installer put something on the joints.
 
Can you provide a picture of the stove so we can see what is where in relation to the vertical vent.
 
4218924671_880b0b2f31.jpg


Here's a pic of the original setup with the the liner running all the way down. The stove is pulled out a little more to accommodate the piping, so it's probably right behind the first row of bricks. Hope this helps you gauge the area. Also in the first pic, that is the top of the stove
 
SmokeyTheBear said:
IceNine,

What brand of vent is that and do those labels on it indicate the direction that is up? Believe it or not there actually is an up end to those critters and it makes a difference.

Looks like the installer put something on the joints.

I'll have to check that out when i get home. There is tape on all the joints. Did not know that there actually is an UP on the pipes. Will check on that too.
 
Icenine


I had 2 different (and both new) 90 deg leak at the manufacture seams at startup that would stop after the fire got going.

After replacing the elbow once and having the same issue again, I taped the manufacture seams too. No more issues. Mine are 3" ICC-Exell pipes. Can't tell if your manufacture seams are taped or not. Just my 2 cents
 
I have no idea what he used to start the run at the stove end with (looks like possibly a short straight) but I think that he could have started with a 45 and then met up with the tee rotated to 45 thus eliminating one of the 45 degree elbows. I don't know if that would throw the front of the stove too close to the edge of the protective hearth or not.

Then there is this method:

My stove is in a corner like yours and the tee is the very first piece after the adapter and the exhaust exits above the tee via a 90 degree and straight out at 45 degrees to the stove center line.
 
Icenine that looks like Duravent PelletVent pipe - the kind you buy a Lowes or Home Depot.

I just got through a complex basement install much like what you have and I could not stop the leaks if my life had depended on it. I used tape all over the place, and sealed every joint with Rudland high temp, and their Seal It Right product. I finally got so disgusted I went out and bought the ICC Excel like I did for my first stove. I was toying with going with the Duravent PelletVentPro but think the ICC Excel pipe is superior.

If it were me I'd tell them to yank out all that Duravent PelletVent pipe and put in the PelletVentPro line. Any dealer installs Duravent PeletVent should have access to that. Otherwise you might ask about the Exel pipe.
 
i should've taken a pic of the vent label but they're metalbestos pipe or something? Anyway, the tech called me back after he heard from Napoleon. basically, the worst possible setup is what he decided to go with. Too many breaks in the pipe, hence why it can't establish a draft.

Solution. shorten the vertical pipe by 12-14 inches. Run flex pipe directly from the back of the stove, replacing the jointed pipe, into a cleanout T to the shortened vertical pipe. seal everything nicely.

I think someone had mentioned this method a couple of responses up. Will let you guys know what happens. Looks like monday afternoon or tuesday.
 
I'll hold my tongue, but it is going to be really difficult.

IceNine, please keep us up to date, it was actually a simple thing for them to do, don't understand how they managed to screw it up. As for breaks in the piping, you should be able to build a vent run out of 1 foot sections if needed and it should function just fine.
 
i don't know man. i'm at my wit's end here. i know that if i call them and REALLY tell them what i think of this guy, i will end up ripping the stove off and dropping it off at their doorstep for a full goddang refund. At this point i want them to fix the damn leaks, get good airflow again and be DONE with them. Once i get some cash aside i can look at the setup again and do it myself properly. LOVE the heat the stove is putting out. Just want to keep the house free of smoke smell. It is what it is at this point. Like i said, have them fix it and be done so i can burn in peace.
 
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