Some Help Needed With Texas Boy's Stove Installation

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BrotherBart

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Texas Boy is getting, understandably, overwhelmed with our diverse advise about putting a wood stove in his Texas Panhandle house. It gets pretty cold up there at times, when God has some extra ice on hand he stores it there, and windy. I have my own ideas about the right stove for his situation, a Hearthstone Shelbure, but his chimney is something that we need pro help with. TB's fireplace is a Majestic builder special with stock Majestic 8" double wall pre-fab chimney. One dealer wants to just connect a pipe from the stove to the Majestic chimney and go. I don't think that the chimney is up to the temps a wood stove tosses off but I am not a pro stove installer.

The fireplace is this Majestic SR36A. While an insert would seem like a good approach I am not sure that this 169 pound firebox could handle one.

Here is the manufacturer's poop on the fireplace:

http://www.vermontcastings.com/content/products/productdetails.cfm?id=99

Here are some pics of his fireplace and shots of the pipe from inside the firebox. We need some advice from you guys in da bidness about an appropriate approach to the chimney situation. My first thought is a six inch liner run up the existing pipe. But I am also concerned about what kind of framing is around it and how close it is.

Help us out here.
 

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Regency I1200 w/insulated liner?
Vermont castings is going to tell you that know solid fuel burner can go into one of their prefabs, basically cuz they dont have a stove that will work into it.
 
If a liner would take care of the chimney side I was thinking the Shelburne in front of the fireplace attached to the liner tee. He has a Hearthstone dealer withing reach and that would give him a lot more stove to heat with.

It is a good bet that the floor is tile over concrete slab since that is the norm out there. Not to many basements in sandy country.
 
I love that stove. It gets overlooked I think because people buying Hearthstones are going with the soapstone models. Its a great heater and is generously priced. I would take one any day. I would check the mantel clearance. Freestanding is hard into the fireplace, unless they are not in love with the mantel.
 
I'm not the kind of professional that you solicited...but I'll post anyway. The Shelburne's a handsome stove, and I think it would look terrific in a hearth stove installation and provide plenty of heating power. With no combustibles beneath to worry about, a hearth beneath the stove isn't a safety issue, but I'm thinking from a design standpoint some sort of hearth of modest depth might really make the stove & its setting pop. Can that stove be setup for rear vent? How are the heights of stove & fireplace opening looking? Rick
 
Measurements:

FP opening: 24.25" H X 36.00" W

Bottom of opening above floor: 7.50"

Top of opening above floor: 31.625" (31 5/8")

From floor to bottom of metal bar that extends across top of opening: 30.25" (the spark screen is hung from it)

Lip of "firebox": 3" above bottom of opening.

It appears that the maximum height for the top of the flue coming out of the stove cannot be more than 30.25" above the floor, unless the bar is removed or altered.
 
fossil said:
Can that stove be setup for rear vent? How are the heights of stove & fireplace opening looking? Rick

Yep. The flue collar is reversible. It should top out at about 29" inches and change off the floor. Which would mean that part of the tee would be up in the pipe but that shouldn't be a problem.
 
Lay in a nice contrasting low (~1/2") tile hearth "pad", land the stove, pipe 'er up, and you'lll be surrounded by luxurious warmth all winter long. Seems like the only concern is clearance to the wood above. Rick
 
i think the flue is the biggest issue, will have to be a hearth setup ,. not an insert if this is a ZC. the question needed answered is what is the pipe rating in the existing flue if ZC its probably 1700 F rated UL-103, this is a no go for direct connect as flue needs to be UL 103HT 2100F rated. BB brought up dropping in a liner which brings the question; is a SS liner rated for the new stove legal inside of a 103 (non-HT) rated flue? if so , what is the procedure for installing it does there have to be standoffs to keep the liner off the outer flue pipes, and what kind of clearances are needed? and does our friend in texas have the clearances needed?

interesting situation i would love to know the answer to this but alas i do not.EDIT here are specs for the system http://www.vermontcastings.com/catalog/elements/files/2006/SR_SC36A.pdf

i do not see ul-103 or Ul103HT listings so i do not know which the system is
 
fossil said:
Lay in a nice contrasting low (~1/2") tile hearth "pad", land the stove, pipe 'er up, and you'lll be surrounded by luxurious warmth all winter long. Seems like the only concern is clearance to the wood above. Rick

Texas Boy here: If I'd known the photos were going on the forum, I would have cleaned the place up a H*** of a lot better, BUT I'll get over it! :) I just hope Lynda doesn't see 'em! LOL!

The stove installation room has a ceiling fan, which I had intended to use in updraft mode, to push the heat down and away from the mantel and distribute abroad. Will that help the mantel situation? The ceiling height is 10'.

AND the proposed stove location IS over a basement room. The fact that the soil IS easy to dig, and the number and potential for tornadoes, makes for quite a high percentage of homes with basements. Is the basement being underneath a deal killer? There are no support walls in the basement closer than about five feet to the stove position on the floor above, but at 5.5 to 6' there are two walls--one is a corner--the stairwell framing for the stairs above. The clear span underneath is 15 feet wall to wall on the short axis. I'm assuming the joists are running the short length, since four foot light fixtures are hung that direction, but not positive. Photos can be provided if needed.

Is the tile not enough of a heat barrier? Will the ceiling fan not help that, too?

I'm starting to get despondent here! Somebody come back with some positive news? PLEASE!! :)
 
I don't see why the basement underneath would matter. As long as the floor is strong enough to handle the stove, which it should be. You could always brace up underneath it if need be.
Personally, I'd tear that builders special and its piping out, and make a nice set up for a free stander.
 
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