split size

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Also depends on the size and loading type of stove. In my Harman i can get a lot of short brick size pieces in around the sides and back as its a top loader. Nice that nothing falls out when opening the loading door too
 
Variety is the answer imo. Helps to get a fully loaded stove and keep some longer burning logs when needed.

Dex: How long has that stack of wood been stacked? Heck of a job. I have abandoned the snow-fence poles as end supports. I found that as the stack aged it settled and pushed the poles over. I took to cross stacking the ends instead and it seems to have been a good move.

A month since its All been finished. But the 1st stack, I started a month prior. (Took a month for me to put it all up).

I have the ends in the ground 2ft. They are 6ft ends and 52" above ground (48" above top of skids/ 4 ft stack height).

I hope it dont fall. I have been practicing my end stacks and have gotten much better.
 
A month since its All been finished. But the 1st stack, I started a month prior. (Took a month for me to put it all up).

I have the ends in the ground 2ft. They are 6ft ends and 52" above ground (48" above top of skids/ 4 ft stack height).

I hope it dont fall. I have been practicing my end stacks and have gotten much better.
I used the heavier poles that HD had. They were driven far enough into the ground. The stacks were upwards of 5 feet tall. Problem seems to be as the logs shrink with seasoning, the stack will shift and repostion logs. The shift is mostly downward, but there is lateral pressure too. The poles can't hold back too much weight. Mine bent and I ended up restacking the ends in the criss/cross method. Hopefully you will make out better. The stacks look great though!
 
I had quite a few 18"ish ash rounds I split this spring. I peeled off the outside, looks like slabwood, and had a polygon left over that's 10-12" across. I was trying for really big squares, but I wasn't having much luck getting them to split that way. Need a taller wedge.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DexterDay
I split a variety of sizes . . . sometimes I split small splits to have them on hand for starting a fire or for a reload -- or sometimes simply because I have a round that I would like to split up to allow it to season better and not retain moisture (i.e. white birch).

Sometimes I split larger splits -- often in rectangular or square shapes which I plan to use for those overnight fires . . . but of course size is always relative . . . for me "large" in my stove is 6 x 6 or 6 x 7 . . . large for my Oslo . . . not in any way shape or form considered "large" for the wood furnace my Dad used when I was a boy.

Mostly I split up medium sized splits of 4 x 5 or something similar.
 
The first few years with this epa stove I split smaller, 3-5", but now I split bigger mostly 6" or as big as I can carry in one hand. I always have a chopping block and axe near the woodpile to cut some down if needed but really don't need to. I don't waste many trees so lots of small stuff from the tops and branches. Only split if needed.

Started using T-bar posts a couple of years back instead of cross stacking. I actually lean them in when stacking and as the stack ages they come vertical but seldom lean outward. I would sooner run a string (or rope or wire) connecting the tops of opposite posts to hold them together than futz with end stacks.
 
I split small enough to get at least two, and preferably three or more of the largest splits into the stove at once. If I load a piece so large it allows only a few smaller ones to fit in with it, I don't get a full burn. The smaller pieces will burn away leaving the large one by itself. I'd try loading your stove and see what size splits fit in there. keep in mind that when you are loading a hot stove the pieces have to fit easily- you won't want to spend a lot of time with your hands in a hot stove. Also, keep in mind you will usually be loading with some hot coals and ash in the stove, so the available space in the firebox will be a little smaller.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Realstone
With the larger diameter logs I got the last several loads, I went for a rectangular cross section, mostly because it was easier to split that way.
The ends stack easier and I was thinking I could fit more in the stove, but I don't know.
It'll be a year or two before I see how they work in the stove though.

I'd be interested if anyone else does this.
 
With the larger diameter logs I got the last several loads, I went for a rectangular cross section, mostly because it was easier to split that way.
The ends stack easier and I was thinking I could fit more in the stove, but I don't know.
It'll be a year or two before I see how they work in the stove though.

I'd be interested if anyone else does this.

I split into rectangular pieces all the time. They stack better and I like the way they look.
 
This should get interesting.
Quite a variety here. Depends on the type of wood and how it's going to be used, and when.
Clear as mud?
Small stuff for shorter fires and kindling, big stuff for overnight if it's oak and can dry long enough.
Lots of variability in there. Others will chime in soon, I'm sure.
HTH
That sounds like us. Most of our wood is odd lengths and rounds picked up for free, and very rarely do we end up with perfect 12x4x3" splits.

In fact, we never end up with perfect 12x4x3" splits ;)
 
I live in a moderate climate so I end up starting a lot more fires from scratch compared to someone in Maine or Minnesota. I split pretty small for this reason.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.