Stihl 011

AHHHH The power of BEER Torn It down ( not a hard job) The piston is scored but the cyl is in awsome shape 1 piston and rings couple of gaskets and new fuel lines I should be back in business

If Baileys doesnt have it then there must not be a meteor. Your only choice might be a ching chong on ebay. Which for $30 might not be optimal, but since you got the saw for free could be worth it. If I was looking for a little project and a backup saw, I'd do it.

Just a word of caution.... looks like some aluminum has left the piston. Are you sure the cylinder is okay as is? I just hate to see you throw a piston in there and have it scored again. Can you get some pictures of the cylinder?

Agree. Seems pretty bad...... May not be. But...........

That piston is certainly fried. Check the cylinder with a bright light and feel for any grooves. Check around the ports for scoring, as that is typically where they get it the worst. I have seen some fried pistons and rings, and the cylinders were OK though.

Trusted places are Madsens (they do not carry 011 parts), Baileys, and.... hmm... no one seems to carry many 011 parts. Pistons seem to be hard to find on those. VEC makes them in India, and they are available on Northwood Saw online. I have no idea about their quality. O/w its Ebay... Lil Red Barn has a piston kit on Ebay and they claim to be better than Chicom stuff, but I have never used them or any non-OEM P&C parts on any of my Stihl saws.

I put a mag light in the bore and the coating must have saved the cy. I worked in a machine shop for 4 years boring blocks. The piston looks bad I can't find 1 scar on the wall. I found the red barn on e bay and was gonna call today

Do you see shiny aluminum transfer on the cylinder wall? If so, you have to get it cleaned off.

not at all I just looked again , I think a new piston and rings I should be good

Yep if the bore looks clean, order the piston and rings and away you go!

35.00 with shipping parts are on the way.

Well, all will be set right again. With a new p&rings that saw should run fine. Set the carb a tad rich and check/replace the impusle line while you are in there. If I recall right, the impulse line is a long line to the carb. When I replaced my 020AV impulse line, the Stihl dealer did not have that part in stock. So I used a length of clear plastic tubing of the same diameter.

Is the impulse line a vent? I saw a line laying in there . What about the reed valve?

The impulse line goes from the carb to the cylinder. It allows the carb pump diaphragm to recognize changes in the cylinder pressure and correspondingly, pump fuel. Some saws due not use a line, instead they have passages through the intake block setup.

Do you have the IPL (Internal Parts List) for the saw? If not I may be able to hunt it down for you.

If you have it that would be great

Should be a link in your inbox

I'll let the guru's On here check the cyl for me . Should I hit it with light sand paper and oil before re-assembly

No! Do not take an abrasive to a nikasil coated cylinder. Especially since you can't get another one!

Yah, no sanding, honing or cross hatching a Nikasil lined cylinder. Muratic (swimming pool) acid only... oil is good, I use 2 stroke oil during assebly of 2-stroke P&Cs. On 4-strokes I use moly assembly lube.

Most all Stihl saws (including the older 020, 009, 011 models) have impulse lines to drive the fule pump in the carbs. The line runs from a stub at the cylinder base to a stub on the carb, or a stub on the carb mount plate that has a hole to the carb through the gasket. On the early model 020AV the line was about 8 inches long and ran all though the center of the saw. They are critical to the saw working properly.

There was no line hooked up to the cylinder , Also all the schmatics show the jug with a base plate this one dosen't have that

Should I give it a bath in acid and how strong should be used to prevent additional damage?

Muriatic acid is only used to specifically target the aluminum transfer.....which you don't have. So skip the acid.

Also, there is no reason to light wet sand with oil because you have no aluminum transfer(I'll disagree with the others as it works well on stubborn aluminum and will not remove the nikasil)

Sorry, I do not have an IPL for the 009, but it seems that on Stihl 009 model saws with Walbro WA carbs, the impulse pressure/vacuum is fed thru the engine case to a mounting flange on the carb. So on some model 009 saws, there is no impulse line to mess with. Which is a good thing.

No need for an acid wash on that cylinder. That looks real clean. Fit in the new piston and rings, and fire it up. Make sure you tune the carb so you do not re-fry that piston running it too lean. With a clean plug, clean air filter, clean exhaust screen and fresh gas, set the H and L and idle. Most of the 009 carbs have H & L setting screws, but not all of them have H screws (supposedly some have fixed H jets). I do not have the RPM numbers for the carb settings, as I do not have the manual for that saw either.

Stihlhead, the OP's saw is an 011.

Oooops, my bad. Working too much lately, not paying enough attention.

I do not have an IPL for a 011 either, but I think that saw has the same configuration as many of the 009 saws. There is a reed plate below the carb that houses the reed valve (or 'inlet reed' as Stihl calls them) that flaps during operation. Old school... next to the reed inlet is a small hole that goes to the crankcase and that is the impulse hole. Make sure that it is not blocked or covered with the gasket.

well was looking at the parts and someone warned me about the bearings ( they fell out).... I now have the case split to replace the needle bearings at the crank I might need some more help putting this thing back together.

Trying to do a test assembly and broke the F@#$ing ring wonder if stihl will sell just that