Stihl 36X (0,1,2) - Best bar for the bang?

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PJF1313

Member
Oct 25, 2009
389
Pine Barrons, L.I., NY
'Evening Ladies and Gents...

I have a chance to "acquire", at a good price, a 361/2 (haven't seen it in person yet) that was mutilated in a felling accident. From what I understand, it will need a new bar/chain, clutch cover, and a handle(?). It was bought about 16 months ago; so it can be either a 361 or 362 (I'll know more about it tomorrow or Monday)

Anywho, what is the best combo for that powerhead? I know the 362 came stock w/a 25", and the 361 may have come with a 24"? I'm thinking about a 18-20" bar combo. Too big/small? I hate running equipment at the "max", so I'd rather run it smaller, but not so small that it becomes counterproductive, like runnin a 880 with a 25"er, or a 440/460 with a 12"er....

It'll complement/overtake the Husky 445 in it's duties - mostly round makin', or felling. I'll get a couple; three chains from my local dealer, since I don't have anything else with a 3/8" chain beside the 360; and it's a 24"er.

Also, what pitch would I want? .050; .058? I think the 360 used a .050.

As a side note, I sharpen my chains by hand. So I have the proper files from .325 up to .404.

Thanks for your advice,

P.J.
 
Dont know much about Stihl,but it sounds like would be a great complement to the Husky 445. 361/362 is 59cc or roughly 3.6 cubic inch.

The 'pitch' of .050 etc is actually the width of the bar groove.I use .050 in my 20 & 24 in bars,the 36 in. is .063 gauge.
 
I Run a 20" bar on mine with a skip tooth chain. Anything longer and you will see power loss. Many people do not cut enough to really notice but if you use the saw with a few different bars you can tell very soon. The biggest thing to remember is the chain does the work, the chain must be sharp and true.
 
20" bar with full comp chain is what I run on my 361. It has enough grunt to pull through hardwoods when you bury it, and I like the length so I don't have to reach as much. 25" bar is okay if infrequently used or run in softwoods. The oiler on the 361 is stingy (even fully opened), so running longer bars is not a good idea IMO.
 
I have both the 18" and 25" bar. The 18" is a light saber on the 361. The 25" is just a tad slower but sure is nice to have when I run into the big stuff and the 361 pulls it just fine.
 
16-20 3/8 0.50
 
MofoG23 said:
I have both the 18" and 25" bar. The 18" is a light saber on the 361. The 25" is just a tad slower but sure is nice to have when I run into the big stuff and the 361 pulls it just fine.

Zactly - the 18" is the go to bar for basic cutting around me. The 25" is for knocking out the big stuff.

If you run an 18" on that saw (and I use full chisel chain), it will perform fantastic.
 
Jags said:
MofoG23 said:
I have both the 18" and 25" bar. The 18" is a light saber on the 361. The 25" is just a tad slower but sure is nice to have when I run into the big stuff and the 361 pulls it just fine.

Zactly - the 18" is the go to bar for basic cutting around me. The 25" is for knocking out the big stuff.

If you run an 18" on that saw (and I use full chisel chain), it will perform fantastic.

I like the idea of that saw being really tight and able to turn quick...If your running one saw sounds dead on.
 
I run 20" with Stihl full-skip semi-chisel. I'm not sure it is the "best", but it cuts like demon.
 
I don't want to start a chain war or anything, but what is with all the skip chain on short bars?? The idea behind a skip chain is to maintain RPM on a saw that is pulling hard. The 18" bar on the 361 doesn't drop RPM unless you use the dogs and force a bite. This is more of a question, I guess, than anything. Why the skip chain?? Your reducing the number of teeth taking a bite when the saw is fully capable of pulling all the teeth.
 
Jags said:
I don't want to start a chain war or anything, but what is with all the skip chain on short bars?? The idea behind a skip chain is to maintain RPM on a saw that is pulling hard. The 18" bar on the 361 doesn't drop RPM unless you use the dogs and force a bite. This is more of a question, I guess, than anything. Why the skip chain?? Your reducing the number of teeth taking a bite when the saw is fully capable of pulling all the teeth.

A full skip chain came on my saw (bought it used). Brand new chain so why not use it? I know it doesn't make sense, but I think it cuts faster...maybe just feels that way because the saw doesn't bog.

I also like it because it has half the teeth to sharpen...so when I'm in the woods I can knock it out really quick. I'm not sure if I'll by another when the time comes, but for right now it does the job really well.
 
lukem said:
Jags said:
I don't want to start a chain war or anything, but what is with all the skip chain on short bars?? The idea behind a skip chain is to maintain RPM on a saw that is pulling hard. The 18" bar on the 361 doesn't drop RPM unless you use the dogs and force a bite. This is more of a question, I guess, than anything. Why the skip chain?? Your reducing the number of teeth taking a bite when the saw is fully capable of pulling all the teeth.

A full skip chain came on my saw (bought it used). Brand new chain so why not use it? I know it doesn't make sense, but I think it cuts faster...maybe just feels that way because the saw doesn't bog.

I also like it because it has half the teeth to sharpen...so when I'm in the woods I can knock it out really quick. I'm not sure if I'll by another when the time comes, but for right now it does the job really well.

Skip tooth will pull more rpm's. just comes down to hp non skip is faster if you have the power.
 
smokinjay said:
Skip tooth will pull more rpm's. just comes down to hp non skip is faster if you have the power.

That is my point (and I am not picking on you, Lukem). The 361 is MORE than capable of pulling an 18" bar with as aggressive chain as you could locate. Heck, I think you could knock the rakers OFF and it would still pull the chain.

Edit: Sorry, I did not mean to divert thread.
 
Jags said:
smokinjay said:
Skip tooth will pull more rpm's. just comes down to hp non skip is faster if you have the power.

That is my point (and I am not picking on you, Lukem). The 361 is MORE than capable of pulling an 18" bar with as aggressive chain as you could locate. Heck, I think you could knock the rakers OFF and it would still pull the chain.

Edit: Sorry, I did not mean to divert thread.

Agree full comp at 20 inchs is still very strong.
 
Jags said:
smokinjay said:
Skip tooth will pull more rpm's. just comes down to hp non skip is faster if you have the power.

That is my point (and I am not picking on you, Lukem). The 361 is MORE than capable of pulling an 18" bar with as aggressive chain as you could locate. Heck, I think you could knock the rakers OFF and it would still pull the chain.

Edit: Sorry, I did not mean to divert thread.

I agree, too.

The reason the 40cc Poulan WildThing comes with a type of skip chain is that it doesn't have the grunt for full comp on it's 18" bar. On the other hand, 20" full comp RSC on a 361 pulls just fine, even buried in hardwood.
 
Jags said:
smokinjay said:
Skip tooth will pull more rpm's. just comes down to hp non skip is faster if you have the power.

That is my point (and I am not picking on you, Lukem). The 361 is MORE than capable of pulling an 18" bar with as aggressive chain as you could locate. Heck, I think you could knock the rakers OFF and it would still pull the chain.

Edit: Sorry, I did not mean to divert thread.

No "picking on" taken.

I swapped the full comp full chisel for the other saw on once just to see the difference....and it was noticeable. Not noticeable enough to buy a new chain though.

But really, at the end of the day, the difference is between "real, real fast" and "real, real, real fast" with a 361 cutting 10" diameter hardwoods. I'm not loosing any sleep over it.
 
lukem said:
Jags said:
smokinjay said:
Skip tooth will pull more rpm's. just comes down to hp non skip is faster if you have the power.

That is my point (and I am not picking on you, Lukem). The 361 is MORE than capable of pulling an 18" bar with as aggressive chain as you could locate. Heck, I think you could knock the rakers OFF and it would still pull the chain.

Edit: Sorry, I did not mean to divert thread.

No "picking on" taken.

I swapped the full comp full chisel for the other saw on once just to see the difference....and it was noticeable. Not noticeable enough to buy a new chain though.

But really, at the end of the day, the difference is between "real, real fast" and "real, real, real fast" with a 361 cutting 10" diameter hardwoods. I'm not loosing any sleep over it.

No need to....Skip chain can feel faster do to a higher rpm under full load. (Skip will be faster on a bar thats longer than your hp can handle as well)
 
I guess I should have also stated


NO CHAIN WARZ ;-P



Anyway, I went to look at it this afternoon - PASS!


It WAS a 362, but seemed to have a short hard life - like falling from a 100 footer and hitting every limb on way down.

The known was it needed a bar, chain, clutch cover, and a bent handle. - O.K., I could've dealt with that

BUT

one of the two cover studs was broken off; the other was about ready to - had a crack near the case;
the clutch look a little tweaked - I wasn't about to take it home and find it needed a crank also;
there was about a half tank of gas, but no bar oil - sounds like a crack to me;
the cross-over handle was bent onto the air filter cover;
had a few pieces of plastic missing on the recoil cover vent.

If I was to get it for nothin' maybe; but what he wanted was just not gonna happen from me.

Thanks for all the advice from all of you. I'm gonna keep this thread bookmarked, just in case something else may pop up.


P.J.


P.S. - Sorry I didn't have my camera with me, it would have taken first place on the wall of shame/abuse!
 
PJF1313 said:
I guess I should have also stated


NO CHAIN WARZ ;-P



Anyway, I went to look at it this afternoon - PASS!


It WAS a 362, but seemed to have a short hard life - like falling from a 100 footer and hitting every limb on way down.

The known was it needed a bar, chain, clutch cover, and a bent handle. - O.K., I could've dealt with that

BUT

one of the two cover studs was broken off; the other was about ready to - had a crack near the case;
the clutch look a little tweaked - I wasn't about to take it home and find it needed a crank also;
there was about a half tank of gas, but no bar oil - sounds like a crack to me;
the cross-over handle was bent onto the air filter cover;
had a few pieces of plastic missing on the recoil cover vent.

If I was to get it for nothin' maybe; but what he wanted was just not gonna happen from me.

Thanks for all the advice from all of you. I'm gonna keep this thread bookmarked, just in case something else may pop up.


P.J.


P.S. - Sorry I didn't have my camera with me, it would have taken first place on the wall of shame/abuse!

Sounds like the tree fell on it!
 
Yeah be glad you didn't get that one. For a parts saw maybe but only if you already own one. When you do get one we will be glad to get into a HUGE pissing match to tell everyone what they should cut with. :bug:
 
I'm not really looking hard, but do keep my eyes open for something a little newer than the ones I have.

And I'll make sure to instigate the match by saying (or doing!) something way out from left field!
 
RNLA said:
Yeah be glad you didn't get that one. For a parts saw maybe but only if you already own one. When you do get one we will be glad to get into a HUGE pissing match to tell everyone what they should cut with. :bug:

+1 but bring a harder agrument next time! lol
 
smokinjay said:
RNLA said:
Yeah be glad you didn't get that one. For a parts saw maybe but only if you already own one. When you do get one we will be glad to get into a HUGE pissing match to tell everyone what they should cut with. :bug:

+1 but bring a harder agrument next time! lol

BaaaaHahaha! :lol:

I hope nobody took my posts as an argument. It was not intended to be so. I actually was "asking" the question, because I couldn't understand why a chain would be selected that will actually slow down the cutting speed if it was not needed (such as the 361 w/18" bar). I have one of those "inquiring minds" that is open just enough to let me listen to other peoples logic. %-P
 
Jags said:
smokinjay said:
RNLA said:
Yeah be glad you didn't get that one. For a parts saw maybe but only if you already own one. When you do get one we will be glad to get into a HUGE pissing match to tell everyone what they should cut with. :bug:

+1 but bring a harder agrument next time! lol

BaaaaHahaha! :lol:

I hope nobody took my posts as an argument. It was not intended to be so. I actually was "asking" the question, because I couldn't understand why a chain would be selected that will actually slow down the cutting speed if it was not needed (such as the 361 w/18" bar). I have one of those "inquiring minds" that is open just enough to let me listen to other peoples logic. %-P

lol It is what it is! I seen it as facts!
 
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