Storage Question Answered!

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Clarkbug

Minister of Fire
Dec 20, 2010
1,273
Upstate NY
Hello All!

Previously I was asking about the size vs. efficiency of storage types (pressurized vs. non) and got some really good information. It didnt really point me in any particular direction, but it turns out that my storage choice was made for me.

As part of my day job work, I get to check out various commercial construction sites, and inspect progress on things. One of these happened to be a project where large cast iron sectional boilers were being removed, and new condensing natural gas boilers were going in. I was shooting the breeze with the site super, and he was mentioning how he wasnt looking forward to getting a new 2500 lb boiler down a staircase into the boiler room. I joked with him that he could come and do mine if he really wanted to, but that I really needed some tanks that would fit in my basement. He pointed his thumb over to the scrap metal dumpster they had on site and said "how about those?".

Turns out they have removed three 220 gallon bare steel expansion vessels and were going to send them to the scrapper. I still need to work out how to get them from the job site to my house (which is about 2.5 hours away), but they are mine (after sufficient palm greasing)! The best part is that they are 30" diameter by 77" tall, and my free space is actually 80". So I have just enough space to insulate underneath and put a layer on top. They have a standing ring welded onto them so no cobbing needed there, and they are even ASME rated.

Awesome.

The only downside is that they are tapped on the long "side" only, not on the very top, so I wont be able to get the peak BTUs out of them. (They do have two 1/2" tapped ports on the top, Im thinking good for thermowell and air vent) Does anyone know of a curved dip tube that could be threaded into the existing port on the side that would direct/collect water from the very top/bottom of the tank? Or is the few inches difference not going to matter?
 
If those are ASME bladder tanks they are worth some money! Even if they aren't those are nice size tanks to find. Typically, hot boiler water goes into the side of the tank near the top, just as you describe yours, Randy
 
a tap near the top is as good as a tap on the top. IMO - I have 5 of the 180 gal version of what you described [used in several areas of my system] mine are all connected on side tappings. I had to pay 80.00 apiece for mine [brand new] same deal -- ordered for a project that never happened and then they went to MSU salvage where they wanted ride of them. Hauled mine home on a small tandem trailer , stacked them like fire wood.
 
The boiler shopping is now the hard part. Im torn, but excited. (Ut oh, I guess that means that I fit in with many here....)

They are ASME tanks, made by the Wessels company. They are worth it to me since its the biggest I can fit in my basement without huge structural change. I dont know if NYS needs that rating, but its nice to have it, just in case!

Im now figuring out the best way to insulate them (cart before the horse I suppose). I was thinking of making a box out of isocyranurate insulation, and then just filling the interior with batt fiberglass or blown cellulose. Would it be better to have them spray foamed?
 
Clarkbug said:
The boiler shopping is now the hard part. Im torn, but excited. (Ut oh, I guess that means that I fit in with many here....)

They are ASME tanks, made by the Wessels company. They are worth it to me since its the biggest I can fit in my basement without huge structural change. I dont know if NYS needs that rating, but its nice to have it, just in case!

Im now figuring out the best way to insulate them (cart before the horse I suppose). I was thinking of making a box out of isocyranurate insulation, and then just filling the interior with batt fiberglass or blown cellulose. Would it be better to have them spray foamed?

As far as insulating goes, for me it was cheaper to build a box and insulate with cellulose than to foam and I have very little heat loss. It does take more room than foam because you need more inches to get the same R-value. Either way don't insulate them until everything is hooked up and you've fired the boiler a couple times to make sure their is no leaks and everything works good. If you use cellulose be sure to dense pack it.
 
Thanks for the tips! I was thinking that before I set them, I would put up some of the foil-faced board behind and underneath them, just so that its there ahead of time. Then I would build the rest of the enclosure after everything was up and running.

I also just found this on craigslist...

http://albany.craigslist.org/mat/2462538974.html

That would make for a pretty cheap/energy efficient storage box. Thoughts?
 
My tank box has 2" foam board top, bottom, sides and ends, and then the tank itself is wrapped with 6+ inches of overlapping fiberglass. The floor has an additional 2" of foam and radiant tubing is in the concrete and under the box, so the floor never is less than 60F. The one end and one side that is on an outside wall has an additional 6" of fiberglass insulation. I made the top of the 19' box and one end easily removable, so in the worst case I could remove the necessary portion of the top or end panel and access all fittings. The tank also is in the heated space, and although there is very little heat loss from the tank, what loss there is only assists in maintaining the desired temperature in the heated space. When I shut my system down in late spring, the tank water temperature was still 100F+ several weeks later.
 
Woodmaster, how many inches of celluose did you go with and what R-value were you shooting for with that amount?

Mike
 
My tanks would have to go in a corner where one wall is exterior block (I believe no external insulation on the buried part of the wall) and an internal block wall. My thought is to put a piece of foam board on the floor, covered with a sheet of the isocyranurate (due to the temps involved). I would do the same on both of these block walls, perhaps adding a little more to the exterior wall. I actually want to put some board on all of the walls in this part of the basement to try and keep as much of the "waste" heat off of the boiler and tanks inside the house if at all possible.

Since all of the fittings would be on one face of the tank (and not the top/bottom) I should only need to pull one panel to access them all.
 
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