Summer Cleaning

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learningasigoalong

New Member
Apr 10, 2012
26
Southern NH
Should I clean out my stove, Jotul f3, for the warm weather or is it ok to leave some stuff in it?
 
Well, others are going to tell you that you need to clean it out. But I have been burning for about 40 years and never clean mine out until the fall before I start burning again. Can't say it has done anything bad yet.
 
Should I clean out my stove, Jotul f3, for the warm weather or is it ok to leave some stuff in it?
If I were you I would clean the stove as well as the venting system. It is an easy stove to clean, and if you want the baffle tubes to last you should wipe them clean and spray with wd-40, pam or anything else that will prevent rust. Just my .02.
 
I say clean early as well.That way if any firebox parts need replacement, you'll have all summer to get your new parts.
 
I would clean it now while you're thinking about it instead of being reminded by the first cold snap when you need to use it. It also may keep some smells from getting into the house from creosote in the chimney. Not a big deal either way though.
 
I usually clean the stove in late May or June. That means cleaning out the ashes, checking the firebrick, checking the chimney, checking all the gaskets and also how tight or loose the door is. Getting it done after the heating season means you won't be scurrying around in the fall because some cold air is coming. You'll be ready to burn with nothing more than putting in wood and starting the fire.
 
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If I were you I would clean the stove as well as the venting system. It is an easy stove to clean, and if you want the baffle tubes to last you should wipe them clean and spray with wd-40, pam or anything else that will prevent rust. Just my .02.

Now you are gonna have him tearing the stove apart to find those baffle tubes that the F3 doesn't have. ;lol
 
I vote on cleaning early and also spraying with Pam cooking oil (firebox), cleaning flue, and also plugging the Flue and OAK (if applicable). I go as far as placing a Damp Rid (moisture absorber). This will prevent any moisture from getting into your system. Even if it's just to stop some simple surface rust, it will help.

I relate it to buying a new truck. That truck sure is pretty and clean now. But fast forward 15 yrs...... Rusted everywhere. When a simple wash and wax would have prevented most of it.

Also, write yourself a note and place it in the firebox. Telling yourself that the flue is plugged (OAK also) and remove the moisture absorber.

Some do nothing. Some (me) do too much. But its an investment that I want to protect. Only takes a few minutes and the Damp Rid (or your choice) is pretty cheap at the Dollar store.

Most of this is what a Lot of pellet burners do. Seems like not many Wood burners plug there Flue. But I live in a very Humid State. Im going to plug, clean, coat, and place absorber in all. Cant hurt....
 
I usually clean the stove in late May or June. That means cleaning out the ashes, checking the firebrick, checking the chimney, checking all the gaskets and also how tight or loose the door is. Getting it done after the heating season means you won't be scurrying around in the fall because some cold air is coming. You'll be ready to burn with nothing more than putting in wood and starting the fire.
Hehehe, I work better under pressure.;)
 
No tubes? Non Cat? What does it have BB?

A stamped steel baffle bolted to cast iron above it. Pretty much have to take the whole stove apart to get it out. Holes punched in the front of the tiers of the piece below the cast iron to provide the secondary air. But as far as burn tubes go, they ain't gonna rust anyway. Everybody uses stainless steel for the re-burn tubes these days.
 
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A stamped steel baffle bolted to cast iron above it. Pretty much have to take the whole stove apart to get it out. Holes punched in the front of the tiers of the piece below the cast iron to provide the secondary air. But as far as burn tubes go, they ain't gonna rust anyway. Everybody uses stainless steel for the re-burn tubes these days.
Thanks Bro
 
I say clean early as well.That way if any firebox parts need replacement, you'll have all summer to get your new parts.
++1 on this reply. I also clean in late spring in order to do a firebox inspection. Last year I found a hairline crack in a sideburn plate so I was glad to catch it then. Also, I have found that my parts dealer has his prices increase in late September so I have learned to buy in the summer.
 
A stamped steel baffle bolted to cast iron above it. Pretty much have to take the whole stove apart to get it out. Holes punched in the front of the tiers of the piece below the cast iron to provide the secondary air. But as far as burn tubes go, they ain't gonna rust anyway. Everybody uses stainless steel for the re-burn tubes these days.
Thanks Brother,
Just got it 10/2011, learned more about firewood in a few months than I thought I could, also learned about the size of the F3 and the size of the pieces and the increased sizes to get the stove going. I like the stove and the heat but I did it all by trial and error, more errors than anything else. In southern NH there is plenty of everything you need but little info when it comes to the stove, the wood, the chimney, on and on. That is why I like this place I can see why so many have been here for so long.

Thanks again and to everyone else too.
 
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