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summer-izing stoves??

Post in 'The Boiler Room - Wood Boilers and Furnaces' started by iceguy4, Apr 13, 2013.

  1. iceguy4

    iceguy4 Minister of Fire

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    looking for advice to prep stove for summer...I was thinking clean...and spray some wd 40 on heat exchanger tubes...thoughts??

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  2. arngnick

    arngnick Member

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    That's how I would do mine but I will be burning through the summer
  3. BoilerMan

    BoilerMan Minister of Fire

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    Thats been my procedure for some years now. Check it out periodically, if any condensation is found, an incandesant light bulb placed in the burn chaimber may be in order (there STILL is a place for good ol' light bulbs, try that with your CFL/LED)

    TS
    arngnick likes this.
  4. DexterDay

    DexterDay Guest

    Pam cooking spray will last longer than WD-40. Pam is an actual oil, where WD-40 is not and will eventually evaporate.

    I also add a container of Damp Rid to control moisture and plug the exhaust and OAK (to prevent any actual air infiltration).

    Then put a little note in the firebox, to remind yourself to unplug OAK and Flue before 1st fire.

    Preventing rust will lengthen the life of your stove. Trucks rust out every year. Only a matter of time before a stove does. I take any preventative measure I can to prolong the life of all my stoves. :)
  5. iceguy4

    iceguy4 Minister of Fire

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    Makes sense...thinking wd 40 to penetrate into places Pam wont and finish with Pam...Am I over thinking this?....Some sort of Desiccant inside in a "no brainer"
  6. chuck172

    chuck172 Minister of Fire

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    Considering fluid film as an anti-corrosive and lubricant.
  7. JrCRXHF

    JrCRXHF Burning Hunk

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    I just let it sit and then late summer i sweep and clean out the fire box but my walls seeing it is a coal sytyle system always have a nice thin hard coating on them that does not scrape off. I have never seen any rust at all in the system.
  8. heaterman

    heaterman Minister of Fire

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    Clean it and protect all the inside surfaces from moisture of any kind. Maybe just as, or more importantly, take a water sample of the system fluid and send it in for a good thorough analysis. Follow the recommendation of the chem lab and you'll be all set.
  9. iceguy4

    iceguy4 Minister of Fire

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    I have cast iron radiators...what are they gonna recommend?
  10. heaterman

    heaterman Minister of Fire

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    They will recommend what your system needs for chemical treatment based on what your water sample tells them and what you have told them regarding the metals your system contains.
    Remember there are two sides that have to be maintained. The fire side and the water side. Each needs attention for long and trouble free life.
    iceguy4 likes this.
  11. iceguy4

    iceguy4 Minister of Fire

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    I have been poking around the internet and not having much luck...will a plumbing parts supplier have a service ? I feel having my water tested will tailor the additives to my water thus preventing adding unnecessary chemicals... any recommendations?
  12. Seasoned Oak

    Seasoned Oak Minister of Fire

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    I run a dehumidifier in summer when my boiler is off.If i dont i get a layer of rust falling off on first fire about the thickness of a sheet of paper. My basement hovers around 75% humidity in summer sometimes more. Dehumidifier brings it down to about 55-60%. I thought about the 100watt lightbulb idea ill have to try it and measure the humidity in the stove. Also might be a good idea to cap the flue so your not drawing 80% humid spring air into the house and through the stove. Not sure what uses less electric the DH or the 100Light bulb.
  13. BoilerMan

    BoilerMan Minister of Fire

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    A 100 watt bulb uses .1 Kwh 24/7. So multiply your electric rate accordingly. For me that is $.147/Kwh. So .0147 x 24 = $0.3528 per day 30 days a month or $10.584 My expierence is that a dehumidifier is about 4x that.

    TS
  14. Seasoned Oak

    Seasoned Oak Minister of Fire

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    I thought about that too, but one time i had mold on the lower part my oak roll top desk which is in an adjoining room .My basement is finished and is quite damp in summer. Id rather control the humidity in the whole basement rather than just in the stove so worth the extra cost. Once the humidity is down to about 55-60 it does not run much to keep it there.
  15. BoilerMan

    BoilerMan Minister of Fire

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    Ok, I didn't know you had a finished basement and you need to what you need to do. Just doing a bit of math.

    TS
  16. Sawyer

    Sawyer Minister of Fire

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    Contact Mike Kuzulka @ Precision Chemical. 920-324-2007, Email - precisionchem@powercom.net

    Mike does the H2O test for my Garn and I assume most of the others. He is a great guy to work with.
    iceguy4 likes this.

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