Super 27 2010 model

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stocker

Member
Hearth Supporter
Oct 31, 2010
57
Northwest Indiana
Just wondering if anyone knows the "sweet spot" stove top temperature of this stove. Am I over shooting it by saying around 600-650? We never had a thermometer on old U.S. stove and had that one cranking all the time but with this EPA stove I'm not too sure on how to run it properly and temp gauging is new to me. Any advice appreciated.
 
Sounds about right. That's what our stove cruises at if the blower is off, ~600 with softwood, ~650 with a good load of hardwood.
 
Thanks for the quick reply. All I have is hardwood and have had the stove as high as a titch over 700 and never had any metal burn smell although I threw a fan at it pretty darn fast (wanted to take advantage of the heat..lol).
 
I find that with N/S loading and the easy draw of this stove that I can burn larger splits which helps moderate the top temps a bit. How tall is the flue on the stove?
 
BeGreen said:
I find that with N/S loading and the easy draw of this stove that I can burn larger splits which helps moderate the top temps a bit. How tall is the flue on the stove?
Can you burn large splits of dense wood, I seem to be having trouble with bigger splits of the dense hardwoods, I hit 800 the other day on a couple of 2 inch oaks splits and 2 short 6 inch pices of elm but the bigger oak is not working like I want it to.
 
It's not cold enough for me to switch to the hardwood yet, but from last year's experience burning locust and cherry, big splits burned well. How long has the oak been seasoning? Haven't burned oak, that is a rare animal here.

How is the bigger oak now working?
 
The flue height to the cap is 16-17 ft. Height to ceiling is 6ft. Has lotsa good draft, no problem there. Would like just a little less for burn times but I will take what I can get from this stove...overall pretty happy with it, just different.
 
BeGreen said:
It's not cold enough for me to switch to the hardwood yet, but from last year's experience burning locust and cherry, big splits burned well. How long has the oak been seasoning? Haven't burned oak, that is a rare animal here.

How is the bigger oak now working?
Three year deader than a door nail on the ground when cut and now at 17%. Still not what I want it to be but trying to figure it out.
 
How thick are the splits and what is the issue?
 
BeGreen said:
How thick are the splits and what is the issue?
I guess anything bigger than 4 inches or so I have to keep the primary air open more and end up playing with it more than I like, I am sure other people see different settings for different wood but the set it and forget it so far as eluded me. I am letting it get up to 500 or so (fan off stove top) before I start to shut it down but still looking for the sweet spot.
 
Are you loading the wood (oak) N/S?
 
BeGreen said:
Are you loading the wood (oak) N/S?
Yes N/S, the fire last night worked alright but mostly 4 inch or less oak and whit ash and the air was almost closed all the way, not sure I will ever be able to burn a 6 inch piece of oak with out the primary air open a fair amount.
 
That sounds odd. The wood should take right off on a hot coal bed refill.
 
BeGreen said:
That sounds odd. The wood should take right off on a hot coal bed refill.
It does for the most part but was wonderng if people have different settings for the denser woods which makes sense as they do not burn as easily, I swear the stove has a mind of its own, I just hit about 500 with 2 small splitts of elm and a stick of oak and the flue did not go over 300. All this talk about closing the air all the way down has to have some varibles to it with the diferent woods and size splitts IMOH. Do you leave the primary open a little more when you have the bigger splitts of harder wood in your stove overnight?
 
Yes, good hardwood can need more air to get it going. I often leave the air open a little bit more for a longer period of time during the outgassing stage. But once it is heading toward the coaling stage I usually can close the air down all the way.
 
BeGreen said:
Yes, good hardwood often needs more air to get it going and I do leave the air open a little bit more for a longer period of time. But once it is heading toward the coaling stage I usually can close the air down all the way.
Another thing might be the fact that most of my fires are some what small compared to the size of the stove, I assume if it was packed more the burns would react differently as I do not see the stove top climb that much after I start to reduce the primary air even though the secondaries start to kick in. I hope to figure it out but this thing is harder to read than a women(well maybe not). :cheese:
 
oldspark said:
I hope to figure it out but this thing is harder to read than a women(well maybe not). :cheese:

I'd say... definitely not! ;-)

spark, have you checked your pipe and chimney for leaks? I'm still trying to come up with something that brings together all of the issues you seem to have with your system.
 
precaud said:
oldspark said:
I hope to figure it out but this thing is harder to read than a women(well maybe not). :cheese:

I'd say... definitely not! ;-)

spark, have you checked your pipe and chimney for leaks? I'm still trying to come up with something that brings together all of the issues you seem to have with your system.
I do not think I have a problem with the system just that this stove is so different than the old one that I question everthing that it does, all my temps are pretty much the same as other postings. Yes everthing has been checked, the issues I have is the learning curve and the fact the old stove ran it self, the size splitts of Oak I burnt in that thing would gag the summit.
 
Ah, ok, good, that's one less thing to worry about, then.

I normally burn pinon, which lights easily. When I burn elm, as I'm doing now, it always surprises me how much longer it takes to get a roaring fire going, easily twice as long with the primary air wide open or close to it. If there's bark on it, it takes even longer.
 
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