Sweeping chimney with stove installed. UPDATED with drawings - more an install question now

[CarbonNeutral]

Clearly I'm searching for the wrong terms, or maybe just everyone already knows this, but:

I will have a Jotul F500, rear-vented through wall using double-wall pipe, to 5' flex SS. to 20' of solid insulated oval duravent.

I could get brushes down the chimney - how do I get to the crud that I clean off, what about cleaning the double-wall pipe and small section of flex?

Thanks.

 

[wendell]

I had asked a similar question recently. The answer? You need to take it apart and clean it outside.

 

[CarbonNeutral]

Ok, schematic attached. I don't think this is workable as there's no clean out

 

[CarbonNeutral]

I want to close off the fireplace - I don't want that big box behind the stove. So how about the scheme below - a t, with a 90 deg bend going to a small clean out door in the veneer?

 

[Deep Fryer]

Hi C.N. I have the same stove & was doing a bit of cleaning myself & was thinking of something along those lines.
I dont see why that would not work but, as I am fairly new to this I will let some of the more knowledgeable folks here will chime in.

"I will have a Jotul F500, rear-vented through wall"
"I want to close off the fireplace - I don’t want that big box behind the stove"

Just to clarify, you want to cover the existing fireplace opening with the stone veneer, therefore you would have two holes in that veneer, one to accomodate the rear double-wall stove vent & the other for the clean-out access panel/door? The more I think about it I think that is a very good idea, it would certainly give you a very clean look.

The only problem I could see is if you needed to access the "T" & the other connections for what ever reason that stone veneer would have to take a beating.

Posting some pictures of the existing condition couldnt hurt.

Must warm up thinking caps When are you getting the stove & why the oval run, why not a round double wall ss?

 

[CarbonNeutral]

Hi C.N. I have the same stove & was doing a bit of claning myself & was thinking of something along those lines.


Just to clarify, you want to cover the existing fireplace opening with the stone veneer, therefore you would have two holes in that veneer, one to accomodate the rear double-wall stove vent & the other for the clean-out access panel/door? The more I think about it I think that is a very good idea, it would certainly give you a very clean look.

Exactly correct.

The only problem I could see is if you needed to access the "T" & the other connections for what ever reason that stone veneer would have to take a beating.

Yes, interesting point - better get that right before wacking up the veneer - then there's the issue of order - have to do the veneer before the stove, the t-setup before the veneer..... I do like to make things complicated...

Posting some pictures of the existing condition couldnt hurt.

Incoming soon...

Must warm up thinking caps When are you getting the stove & why the oval run, why not a round double wall ss?

Stove will be coming when my plan is entirely formulated - within 2 months. My flue is 10" by 6" - cannot fit an insulated round - probably single wall would have an issue as well. Duravent make a liner with the same CS area as 6" diam, but 4" by 8" rounded rectangle

 

[CarbonNeutral]

Current setup

 

[Deep Fryer]

Yes, interesting point - better get that right before wacking up the veneer - then there's the issue of order - have to do the veneer before the stove, the t-setup before the veneer..... I do like to make things complicated...

Stove will be coming when my plan is entirely formulated - within 2 months. My flue is 10" by 6" - cannot fit an insulated round - probably single wall would have an issue as well. Duravent make a liner with the same CS area as 6" diam, but 4" by 8" rounded rectangle

I too like to make things complicated or at least more so than is necessary, we have a lot in common :cheese:
Gotcha on the oval liner ;-)
So you are going to completely remove the mantle right. As for the set up, it would probably be prudent to set all the connections up, stove in place, take careful measurements & dismantle & then put up the veneer wall, just my opinion. Its more work but its the only way to be sure you are on the right path.

Good deal on the picture, I do hope more people chime in on your proposed project, BTW: what kind of stone venner are you planing on using?

 

[BrotherBart]

Just an observation. You are going to have to move the stove to clean that double wall connector pipe anyway so why not put either a tee or a fixed non-adjustable stainless elbow back there behind the veneer going into the double wall pipe. If done with a tee then you stick a Shop-Vac hose through the connector pipe and suck the crud out of the tee. If done with a 90 degree elbow the stuff will brush down into the elbow and you vac it out from there.

BTW: Congratulations. Very few think through how they are going to clean the chimney before they have the stove installed.

 

[CarbonNeutral]

Just an observation. You are going to have to move the stove to clean that double wall connector pipe anyway so why not put either a tee or a fixed non-adjustable stainless elbow back there behind the veneer going into the double wall pipe. If done with a tee then you stick a Shop-Vac hose through the connector pipe and suck the crud out of the tee. If done with a 90 degree elbow the stuff will brush down into the elbow and you vac it out from there.

I did wonder about that section - I wondered if there was any way to clean that by removing sections from inside the stove, but it sounds like not. If I have to move the stove, I like the idea of just having a 90 deg bend to provide a more solid surface to do the vacuuming - also no need for the elaborate sweep out door. Presumably people who rear vent, but don't block the hearth, have enough flex in the liner to undo it and move it away from the stove.

What do people do who top vent but place the stove in the firebox? Presumably they also have to pull the stove out...

Thanks.

 

[BrotherBart]

I top vent the 30-NC into a thirty degree elbow and liner. When I clean the chimney I just remove the baffle in the stove, go up on the roof and drop a rope attached to a brush down into the firebox and go down and pull the brush down into the firebox with all of the crud. According to how the pipe looks I then either go back up and pull the brush back up the liner with the rope attach to the other end or, most often, just go up and put the cap back on.

The stove in the basement has the liner turned 90 degrees into the thimble. I just pull the brush down the liner through the 90 degree bend. With the connector pipe removed.

 

[CarbonNeutral]

So it pretty much looks like I'll need to shift the stove, which is a pain, but at least a solution.

It also actually makes the install easier again, with just the addition of a 90deg solid bend that then connects to about 4' of flex, then 20' or so of the solid oval.

So now this raises the question of how you move a 400+lb stove without scratching tiles.

 

[CarbonNeutral]

place pieces of upside down rug under the legs

elegant and simple - presumably just a quick tilt of the stove backwards to get the carpet under

 

[BrotherBart]

Go to the hardware store and buy some "furniture sliders". Plastic things that you put under each leg. Then just slide the big sucker out and back in. Worked with the 455 pound 30-NC doing the install. And that was on a rough brick hearth.

Don't leave them under the legs at burning time. :ahhh:

 

[stoveguy13]

Are you ovalizing a five inch pipe?

 

[CarbonNeutral]

Are you ovalizing a five inch pipe?

Nope, duravent insulated oval to fit my smallish clay flue.

 

[stoveguy13]

what was the the size of the ovalzed size of the pipe and what is the size of the flue?

 

[velvetfoot]

You're dead set against an insert?

 

[CarbonNeutral]

what was the the size of the ovalzed size of the pipe and what is the size of the flue?

All here:

This thread

 

[CarbonNeutral]

You're dead set against an insert?

We started at an insert, but our firebox curves quickly in at the top, so we are limited to a few of them (which were nice), I also prefer the stove/insert/flames not flush with the floor, so that ruled out all inserts. So yes, we're on an ivory Jotul F500. Really, it's just the sweeping conundrum I need to solve, as I'm very happy with the design concept now.

 

[granpajohn]

If you can overcome this sweeping problem, many insert buyers could be convinced to go free standing. (Twas the case for me. I do not intend to ever move an installed stove again, if possible. Moving for annual cleaning? No way.)
Just my opinion.
BTW. If the clean out door is used, it has to be air tight, lest it eat valuable draft.

 

[CarbonNeutral]

Somewhat coincidently, do I see a rear vented F500 with a closed in hearth (or no hearth) right on the front page of hearth.com?

 

[BrotherBart]

Yes. And in most every Jotul stock photo you will ever see. Now, if the fire in that pic just looked real...

 

[CarbonNeutral]

Yes. And in most every Jotul stock photo you will ever see. Now, if the fire in that pic just looked real...

Those observation skills of yours

 

[daryl]

New to this forum
I have been thinking on this one a bit. Why not take a tee cap and tapcon it to the floor put a tee ontop of that use a 6" round as a thimble use a plug for a clean out door. Use another tee at the stove. Liner would be supported at the floor it would be a nice stout system.You could run a brush down and nothing would move.It would be a little harder to get out what was swept down. But thats why they make vacs. Best of luck with your plans it should look great when its all done.