Thoughts on Woodstock Fireview as a hearth stove into a prefab fireplace?

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DiscoInferno

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
When we built our house in MI I wasn't yet a serious burner, so we got the standard inefficient prefab fireplace, a Majestic WMC42. It's reasonably well-built as prefabs go, UL127 listed, and has the same 8" ID, HT2100-rated class A triple-wall air-cooled chimney that VC uses for their Sequoia EPA fireplace. For years I've been planning some sort of upgrade to reasonable heat; this past season another member showed an Oslo install into pretty much exactly the same setup, which was the leading candidate at the time. The recent discussion of Woodstock discounts and tax credits got me looking at the Fireview, and so I thought I'd see what folks thought about it in my case.

I've attached a photo of the current setup, the fireplace is 42" x 35.5". The major factors limiting my choices are:
1. Lintel height of 27"
2. Hearth depth of 19" (I think; I did not write that down for some reason and I'm not there now)
3. Hearth is 2.5" of concrete on wood, so R value of only 0.2-0.25 or so
4. Faux-stone surround is on a wood backer.
I've had some discussions with Woodstock based on this photo and info, the upshot is that they think it will fit given my dimensions, that I might need to double up the bottom heat shield (although I think my hearth matches their suggested 0.5" of cement board), and that the combustible surround probably isn't an issue because it will not be 90 degrees to any major surfaces, and could be heat shielded if necessary. The mantle would need a heat shield for just about any stove. They actually suggested that a direct-connect to the existing 8" chimney would probably be OK, although a full 6" liner is certainly possible. One nice thing is that I can use the existing blower in the fireplace to reclaim some of the heat radiated back past the rear heat shield, and the air will blow right over the top of the stove. Another is that the side-loading and the 10" raised hearth mean I don't need additional protection in front.

Anybody (especially Fireview owners) see any major red flags I missed? There's one measurement I can't precisely extract from the documentation, and maybe a Fireview owner can check this for me: if the stove is mounted with the rear as flush to the fireplace face (sans doors, of course) as the various protusions allow, how far is it from the face to the front legs? The manual lists outside leg dimensions at 18", and overall stove depth at 20". If my 19" hearth-depth number from memory is correct, then the distribution of those extra 2" is pretty important.

Size-wise I'd prefer a somewhat larger stove, but the constraints above don't let me get much larger (the Oslo is somewhat bigger). The house is 2000 sqft, with the front half (where the fireplace is located) with a double-height vaulted ceiling, but it has full Tyvek wrap and decent insulation - R19 walls and R50 roof. Pretty much any stove in that location won't heat the rear bedrooms too well, but two ceiling fans above should distribute heat well across the remaining ~1500 sqft.
 

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  • Thoughts on Woodstock Fireview as a hearth stove into a prefab fireplace?
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It looks pretty tight to me. As for the legs, you no doubt looked at the last page of the manual and it is correct. The overall dimension is 20" and the legs sit an 1" in from the outside of the cast or about even with the actual soapstone.

Good luck.
 
Backwoods Savage said:
It looks pretty tight to me. As for the legs, you no doubt looked at the last page of the manual and it is correct. The overall dimension is 20" and the legs sit an 1" in from the outside of the cast or about even with the actual soapstone.

Good luck.

What we have been doing is just removing the stove from the rear and pulling the old flue down . Then you could ether make a insulated steel block off plate to fill the fire place hole or add a brick or more stone if available.
I think with a double wall black pipe you would be OK with the mantel
The 8" steal fire place flue pipes are not rated for a wood appliance . I have seen guys run 6"ss pipe inside the old flue, but it isn't a approved method of installation and i cant get it approved here.
There are only a few inserts that are made for a prefab fire box .
We just finished a stove install yesterday . We riped every thing out and replaced it . The inspector wast a real stickler for the regs .
he was totally inflexible to anything i wanted to do. John
 
I'd contact Woodstock first and see if they approve of this type of installation. Most stove companies haven't tested with this config.. The Hearthstone Homestead has and is approved. We've also had reports that Jotul has approved this for some (not sure which ones) of their stoves. That said, it seems like it should work. But do give the folks at Woodstock a call on this and let us know the response.
 
BeGreen, I believe he stated that he has already talked to Woodstock.
 
Backwoods Savage said:
BeGreen, I believe he stated that he has already talked to Woodstock.

I've had a couple of email exchanges with a Michael O'Neill at Woodstock, including sending the photo I posted and discussing the dimensions/clearances. He seemed to think it was doable, perhaps needing a little extra heat shielding here and there. I suppose he never directly said the the company supports such installs, but that seemed implicit is his responses.
 
The problem i am having, is in order to get a town permit i need to have the fire place that the stove is to be used in listed in the installation manual and UL approved .
It always seems like you are compromising in size, type and the look of the room when you add a stove to a prefab fire box .
 
The problem I see with this is your 19" hearth. The air control and damper bypass handle is right on the rear corner of the stove, so you may not be able to get at it or could be a real pain if you install the stove slightly inside the fireplace opening since the stove is 20" deep. Don't you still need a 8" front clearance? A fireview would look awful nice sitting there though.
 
DiscoInferno said:
Backwoods Savage said:
BeGreen, I believe he stated that he has already talked to Woodstock.

I've had a couple of email exchanges with a Michael O'Neill at Woodstock, including sending the photo I posted and discussing the dimensions/clearances. He seemed to think it was doable, perhaps needing a little extra heat shielding here and there. I suppose he never directly said the the company supports such installs, but that seemed implicit is his responses.

If they will provide you with the documentation necessary for town permits, then you should be good to go. This should include connector pipe type, shielding, mantle clearances, hearth requirements, etc. Some of this is in the manual already. As noted, a hearth extension will be required.
 
Todd said:
The problem I see with this is your 19" hearth. The air control and damper bypass handle is right on the rear corner of the stove, so you may not be able to get at it or could be a real pain if you install the stove slightly inside the fireplace opening since the stove is 20" deep. Don't you still need a 8" front clearance? A fireview would look awful nice sitting there though.

Ahh, see that was the kind of thing I was looking for. The guy at woodstock didn't mention that. What he did tell me was that the 8" clearance in front could be horizontal or vertical, and thus my 10" raised hearth counted. I had been planning to do an 18" floor-level extension anyway before I started looking at the Fireview, although it wold be nice to not have to.

What I might wind up doing is extending the middle section of the raised hearth out by a few inches somehow, so the stove can sit out away from the fireplace a little bit. Not sure right offhand how to make that look nice, with the stone below and since the current hearth has a textured edge that would be hard to mate to. I guess I've got all summer to figure it out.
 
wellbuilt home said:
The problem i am having, is in order to get a town permit i need to have the fire place that the stove is to be used in listed in the installation manual and UL approved .
It always seems like you are compromising in size, type and the look of the room when you add a stove to a prefab fire box .

Trust me, I've been kicking myself for years for not thinking about this when we built the house. In my primary residence here in MD I just ripped out the prefab and installed the Ultima, but I really prefer a freestanding stove. I suppose I could do some sort of shielded alcove in the place of the fireplace, but this approach would be a lot cheaper and wouldn't look too bad.
 
BeGreen said:
DiscoInferno said:
Backwoods Savage said:
BeGreen, I believe he stated that he has already talked to Woodstock.

I've had a couple of email exchanges with a Michael O'Neill at Woodstock, including sending the photo I posted and discussing the dimensions/clearances. He seemed to think it was doable, perhaps needing a little extra heat shielding here and there. I suppose he never directly said the the company supports such installs, but that seemed implicit is his responses.

If they will provide you with the documentation necessary for town permits, then you should be good to go. This should include connector pipe type, shielding, mantle clearances, hearth requirements, etc. Some of this is in the manual already. As noted, a hearth extension will be required.

I'll get a permit if the insurance company requires it, but bear in mind that the house itself has never had a final inspection, we have no occupancy permit, and I think the well never got a proper permit either. The county it's in is extremely lax about such matters, and I've given up trying to get them to do their job. Since the builder is long gone any code deficiencies are now problems I don't need.

Part of the trick is interpreting clearances; here the stove sides and front would be completely clear, and the back would be into a fireplace which I have no doubts can handle the heat that gets through the rear heat shield. The surround and its combustible backing would be only about 8-10" away, but it's not either directly to the side or directly to the rear. It's slightly behind and to the side. So which clearance number is relevant, if any? If I protect the edge of the surround with a metal shield then the listed side clearance is 7", so I suppose that should be good enough no matter what.
 
DiscoInferno said:
wellbuilt home said:
The problem i am having, is in order to get a town permit i need to have the fire place that the stove is to be used in listed in the installation manual and UL approved .
It always seems like you are compromising in size, type and the look of the room when you add a stove to a prefab fire box .

Trust me, I've been kicking myself for years for not thinking about this when we built the house. In my primary residence here in MD I just ripped out the prefab and installed the Ultima, but I really prefer a freestanding stove. I suppose I could do some sort of shielded alcove in the place of the fireplace, but this approach would be a lot cheaper and wouldn't look too bad.

I think you could add a 12" hearth in front of the existing one and chisel the existing stone out around the fire box and when you fill in the stones you wont be able to tell the fire place was there. I just try ed adding a heritage soap stone to a prefab last week . The truth is it just dissent look good . We took the stove out and demoed the stone and all . Two guys could have the hole thing out in a dump truck in under 2 hours. We installed a 4" pad on the floor with a nice tile and cultured stone over wonder board with a 1" air space . The material was under 900 bucks 1000 in labor + stove and new flue. Every ones happy. John
 
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