Tile
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- May 1, 2006
- 118
I would say anything that can withstand the abuse dealt by firewood without cracking.
Most tile doesn't have much by way of insulation value, although some might be somewhat better than others - this is only really relevant if you are calculating R-value to meet the minimum floor protection for your stove. Or I suppose some tile (i.e. soapstone) will work as a better heat sink than others.
Most tile doesn't have much by way of insulation value, although some might be somewhat better than others - this is only really relevant if you are calculating R-value to meet the minimum floor protection for your stove. Or I suppose some tile (i.e. soapstone) will work as a better heat sink than others.
Plain, cheap, ceramic tile is what I used. It is holding up great. Other than the actual load of the stove feet, the hearth isn't a particularly harsh environment. Unless you are a clutz and drop logs from waist high or something.
Answer: Whatever looks best for you . . . no R value in tile . . . so go with whatever looks good to you.
Make sure you put the tile on top of the of whatever you are using as a heat sheild though. I can tell you from experience. you'll really make the misses mad when you add the protection over her tile job. lol
I used cheap ceramic tiles, they seem to be working great.
I used cheap ceramic tiles, they seem to be working great.
Thanks for the advise !! I sure am glad you guys are here with your wealth of knowledge. The forum has been very helpful and im greatful for the help 
I am finishing up my fireplace surround (travertine mosiac) and raised hearth (18" travertine tiles cut to fit), - have to try to post some pictures as it has the approval from SWMBO (even though I was given a couple of redirections during the build up).
Aaron
Aaron
Sounds real nice, cant wait to see pics. So how many inches is your hearthpad? What materials did you use in it? Im trying to build up my confidence to just do mine myself and save some money.
We're doing real inexpensive tiles over slab in the spring. Just do it. You'll thank us later.
Oh, and,.......no pics, didn't happen! :coolsmile:
Oh, and,.......no pics, didn't happen! :coolsmile:
Hearth is 20x60 and is built on metal studs with two layers of 1/2" cement board. The metal studs are screwed to the subfloor and riveted at each seam. The first cement board is glued and screwed to the metal studs with a layer of thinset and screws holding the second layer (screws through both layers into the studs).
The mosaics were mounted backwards (webbing facing out) with heat resistant, non-combustable adhesive and the glue and webbing removed (scrub brush and water) before grouting.
Rebuilt the mantle to raise it for the required clearance for a Regency I1200 or Quadrafire i2700. Wife and I want the Hampton HI200 in timberline brown enamel but they measure the clearance from the top of the surround and I can't get the extra 8" without it looking strange. Anyone know why the Regency uses a different spot to measure clearance from even though the Regency and Hampton seem to be the same insert with different faces (cast versus sheet)?
Aaron
The mosaics were mounted backwards (webbing facing out) with heat resistant, non-combustable adhesive and the glue and webbing removed (scrub brush and water) before grouting.
Rebuilt the mantle to raise it for the required clearance for a Regency I1200 or Quadrafire i2700. Wife and I want the Hampton HI200 in timberline brown enamel but they measure the clearance from the top of the surround and I can't get the extra 8" without it looking strange. Anyone know why the Regency uses a different spot to measure clearance from even though the Regency and Hampton seem to be the same insert with different faces (cast versus sheet)?
Aaron
Aaron do you know what you need for an r value below the stove? Just asking cuz I almost go into trouble with that myself. I had to add 1" of micore (fibreboard) to get the insualation value required for my NC-13. Unfortunatly I checked that after I had already tiled the hearth for the first time.
oops!
oops!
Hello All,
I too am going to attempt to build my own hearth. I have read about the R-value that some stoves require for their hearth's. I am installing a PE Alderlea T5, however under the floor protection section of the manual it only states what is below.
The stove may be installed on a combustible
floor provided noncombustible ember protection
is used.
This protection must extend as follows:
In Canada: 18" (457 mm) on the fi ring side
and 8" (203 mm) to the other sides. See
Figure #5 on left.
In USA: 16" (406 mm) to the front and 8" (203
mm) to the sides of the fuel loading door opening.
See Figure #6 on right. This protection
is also required under the chimney connector
and 2" (51 mm) beyond each side.
It doesn't state anything about a minimum insulating factor. All it states is noncombustible ember protection??? Anyone know if there is a minimum code for the US?
I too am going to attempt to build my own hearth. I have read about the R-value that some stoves require for their hearth's. I am installing a PE Alderlea T5, however under the floor protection section of the manual it only states what is below.
The stove may be installed on a combustible
floor provided noncombustible ember protection
is used.
This protection must extend as follows:
In Canada: 18" (457 mm) on the fi ring side
and 8" (203 mm) to the other sides. See
Figure #5 on left.
In USA: 16" (406 mm) to the front and 8" (203
mm) to the sides of the fuel loading door opening.
See Figure #6 on right. This protection
is also required under the chimney connector
and 2" (51 mm) beyond each side.
It doesn't state anything about a minimum insulating factor. All it states is noncombustible ember protection??? Anyone know if there is a minimum code for the US?
I'm sure you'll get an answer from someone who knows moew than me. But, what that tells me is that your all set all you need is a mat or some other "non-combustable", like tile, to cover the requiared area.
If you needed the insulation you manula would be very clearb about it. Mine was once I read it again. It said the area needed to have an R value of NO LESS than 2".
Wow, nice stove I just checked it out. That stove has pretty close clearance tolerances all around. Almost 1/2 the clearance that my Englander NC-13 requires. Must be well insulated or something.
If you needed the insulation you manula would be very clearb about it. Mine was once I read it again. It said the area needed to have an R value of NO LESS than 2".
Wow, nice stove I just checked it out. That stove has pretty close clearance tolerances all around. Almost 1/2 the clearance that my Englander NC-13 requires. Must be well insulated or something.
haha- I shouldn't use fast reply. I type and write like crap. When I go back and read what I wrote, it reminds of hearing my own voice on the answering machine.
That's kind of along the lines that I was thinking as well, it states nothing about r-value. So I think I will go with plywood with cement backer board over it, and then cover it in tile.
The low wall clearances was one of the reasons for me choosing the Alderlea, I am putting it in a smaller room, and didn't want to take up more space than I already am. Plus, I can put in the Alderlea and still be within the same footprint as a smaller stove that has larger minimum clearances.
The low wall clearances was one of the reasons for me choosing the Alderlea, I am putting it in a smaller room, and didn't want to take up more space than I already am. Plus, I can put in the Alderlea and still be within the same footprint as a smaller stove that has larger minimum clearances.
I built a small (18" x 32") hearth pad extension for my stove. Think of it as a tile "hearth rug". I got some 6X6 and 4x4 vermont slate at a local overstock store. Looks good for rookie work.
murph said:
hearth is for a fireplace but is built with two layers of 1/2" cement board supported by metal studs creating >3" of dead air space -way more than I need for the insert I an looking at.
Aaron
oops![/quote]
hearth is for a fireplace but is built with two layers of 1/2" cement board supported by metal studs creating >3" of dead air space -way more than I need for the insert I an looking at.
Aaron[/quote]
Oh I see. Sorry I thought I read something about it be for a stove. You'll have to post some pics when you get it done..
Good luck.
hearth is for a fireplace but is built with two layers of 1/2" cement board supported by metal studs creating >3" of dead air space -way more than I need for the insert I an looking at.
Aaron[/quote]
Oh I see. Sorry I thought I read something about it be for a stove. You'll have to post some pics when you get it done..
Good luck.
Murph
I had thought about dropping a layer or two of micor on the sub floor and mounting the metal studs flat but the micor wasn't easily available.
My biggest fear was cracking the large tile so I jumped several times on the hearth before laying the tile - 180 lbs bouncing on it didn't have any perceptable movement and caused no cracking so if the tile cracks I'll know it's from the heat.
Anyone know how to get a 'wet' look on the tile? There are stone sealer-enhancers but I'm afraid to use one - it's a lot of work to pull the tile if it goes bad. The tile looks great as is but the grain (???) realy comes to life if it's just moistened.
Aaron
Link to Pictures: https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/45240/
I had thought about dropping a layer or two of micor on the sub floor and mounting the metal studs flat but the micor wasn't easily available.
My biggest fear was cracking the large tile so I jumped several times on the hearth before laying the tile - 180 lbs bouncing on it didn't have any perceptable movement and caused no cracking so if the tile cracks I'll know it's from the heat.
Anyone know how to get a 'wet' look on the tile? There are stone sealer-enhancers but I'm afraid to use one - it's a lot of work to pull the tile if it goes bad. The tile looks great as is but the grain (???) realy comes to life if it's just moistened.
Aaron
Link to Pictures: https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/45240/
Aaron Pasteris said:
I think you would want to use a gloss or high gloss stone sealer to get the "wet" look . . . if you're concerned as to whether it would look good or not try it on an extra piece of tile and see if you like it or not.
Based on the specs you mentioned sounds like you know your all set any way. I hear you on the availability of micore. I used it on the recommendation of the guys here on the Hearth. I was lucky working at a building supply store, I could get it special order fairly easy. I'm glad I used it. After working with it I'm earging purchasing dept here at the store to keep it in stock. So far seems like the Ideal product to use. Atleast from my limited experience. Nice pictures by the way. I like the detail around the opening. I'm not that creative.
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