TN20 running hot

[Flashback87]

Hey

I had another thread about putting a wood stove in an existing fireplace. I pulled the trigger and got a true north tn20. Very pleased with the install as we were able to remove the last layer of brick and lintel, then reinstall lintel into the next row of brick giving me the extra clearance of height for stove to easily fit in firebox.

The issue I'm have though is the stove seems to be getting too hot. I only have a thermometer on the stove top because the pipe is up the chimney and can't be seen. Thermometer is a gala fire from Amazon and says it can be installed on top, side and pipe. Thermometer is placed on front of stove top.


Today is the 2nd day of burning. All was going well until I jammed it full for a longer burn. When I reloaded I opened air control all the way up until my thermometer read about 450. Then i closed it all the way. It kept climbing to 700. This concerned me especially since the air control was closed and temp still climbing. I was supposed to leave and I didn't want to leave without it cooling down.

I researched how to cool it down and I saw a lot about opening door to get a rush of cool air in. I did this but it really didn't cool down. Hovered around 700 and then the top of the stove around the flue collar turned red. Now I have a bunch of windows and doors open with a fan blowing on it and door closes. I'm at about 600 now but hoping someone can direct me with what I'm don't wrong.

Very concerned I over fired this new stove already. Also don't undertand why the temp kept climbing with air control closed.


Any advice please?

Hoping I'm just overreacting...

Thanks!

 

[begreen]

It could just be the air was not turned down soon enough. Going by stove top temp can be misleading, it's a lagging indicator. Instead, go by the look of the fire and turn down the sooner, in increments until the flames get lazier, then wait until they regain strength and close it down some more.

Also, larger pieces of wood burn slower. If the splits are skinny there is a lot more surface area exposed.

How tall is the liner on the stove?

 

[Flashback87]

It could just be the air was not turned down soon enough. Going by stove top temp can be misleading, it's a lagging indicator. Instead, go by the look of the fire and turn down the sooner, in increments until the flames get lazier, then wait until they regain strength and close it down some more.

Also, larger pieces of wood burn slower. If the splits are skinny there is a lot more surface area exposed.

How tall is the liner on the stove?

Liner is 13-15 feet. The splits were about 3-4 inch splits probably 16-17 inches long. Stacked 5 of them in and then a skinnier one to fill a gap. Here's a pic. This is when it was creeping over 600 with control closed all the way.

Just pretty concerned I broke something since it turned red for a little bit. Obviously have a large learning curve and don't to mess this up right out the gate... lol.

Thanks!

 

[bholler]

Liner is 13-15 feet. The splits were about 3-4 inch splits probably 16-17 inches long. Stacked 5 of them in and then a skinnier one to fill a gap. Here's a pic. This is when it was creeping over 600 with control closed all the way.

Just pretty concerned I broke something since it turned red for a little bit. Obviously have a large learning curve and don't to mess this up right out the gate... lol.

Thanks!

View attachment 304176

I do think your top is probably going to run hotter than most because it fits so tight. All that radiant heat is trapped

 

[begreen]

If you can, try to pack in smaller stuff between the bigger splits. That slows down air flow.
At least you know the firewood is nice and dry.

 

[Flashback87]

Do you think this 700 temp and briefly turning red is of concern? I got the red spot to dimish in 15 or so minutes and stove was around 700 for 30-45 minutes.

Any damage I should be looking for?

Stove is in the safe zone now with glowing coals and a little blue flame. Probably done adding wood for the evening... lol.

Thanks!

 

[moresnow]

Do you have the blower option?

 

[Flashback87]

Do you have the blower option?

There is one but I do not have it.

 

[bholler]

Do you think this 700 temp and briefly turning red is of concern? I got the red spot to dimish in 15 or so minutes and stove was around 700 for 30-45 minutes.

Any damage I should be looking for?

Stove is in the safe zone now with glowing coals and a little blue flame. Probably done adding wood for the evening... lol.

Thanks!

700 is perfectly fine glowing absolutely is not fine

 

[Flashback87]

It go red when I had the door wide open. Wondering if I created an excessive draft...

 

[rudysmallfry]

Turn down the air sooner when reloading on hot coals. There is some lag time as you found out. As soon as you see active flame, you can pretty much go immediately down to 1/2 air or less in most cases. It took me a few times to stop trusting the number on the thermometer and instead going with my gut and how much the flames were moving. You'll get a feel for it after a few tries.

 

[bholler]

It go red when I had the door wide open. Wondering if I created an excessive draft...

Opening the door won't increase draft. It would actually reduce it and instantly stop secondary combustion. As well as flooding the firebox and chimney with lots of dilution air. It doesn't make sense that opening the door would have caused glowing.

Not doubting you that it did it's just very odd

 

[Flashback87]

Opening the door won't increase draft. It would actually reduce it and instantly stop secondary combustion. As well as flooding the firebox and chimney with lots of dilution air. It doesn't make sense that opening the door would have caused glowing.

Not doubting you that it did it's just very odd

Ok, just seemed weird it was turning red in the flue collar section. The manual says excessive draft can cause over heat and turn components red. U mentioned all the hot aire being trapped in my firebox. Thinking I should get the blower now to push the air out.

 

[Highbeam]

Having burned a bonfire or two, I think this whole concept of opening the door to cool a stove is ridiculous. Shut the air down and keep an eye on it. Noncats are made to run.

 

[rudysmallfry]

Opening the door won't increase draft. It would actually reduce it and instantly stop secondary combustion. As well as flooding the firebox and chimney with lots of dilution air. It doesn't make sense that opening the door would have caused glowing.

Not doubting you that it did it's just very odd

I wonder if that only applies to stoves that are not in negative pressure locations. My stove is in the basement. Any time I have a load struggling for air, opening the door always gets it going very quickly.

 

[begreen]

Do you think this 700 temp and briefly turning red is of concern? I got the red spot to dimish in 15 or so minutes and stove was around 700 for 30-45 minutes.

Any damage I should be looking for?

Stove is in the safe zone now with glowing coals and a little blue flame. Probably done adding wood for the evening... lol.

Thanks!

It's a robust stove. I wouldn't lose sleep over one minor excursion to the hot side. For sure, the paint is broken in.

 

[bholler]

I wonder if that only applies to stoves that are not in negative pressure locations. My stove is in the basement. Any time I have a load struggling for air, opening the door always gets it going very quickly.

That always happens you are greatly increasing the volume of air which makes the fire take off faster.

 

[rudysmallfry]

That always happens you are greatly increasing the volume of air which makes the fire take off faster.

So that has nothing to do with increasing draft, just more oxygen to the fire?

 

[bholler]

So that has nothing to do with increasing draft, just more oxygen to the fire?

Draft is a measurement of the vacuum being pulled on the stove when you open that door the vacuum reduces drastically. Because there is less resistance

 

[Flashback87]

It's a robust stove. I wouldn't lose sleep over one minor excursion to the hot side. For sure, the paint is broken in.

Actually the paint started blistering on the top before all this. I've already let the installer know and left a message with the stove shop I bought it from.

Seems kind of weird...

 

[Flashback87]

I do think your top is probably going to run hotter than most because it fits so tight. All that radiant heat is trapped

Hoping u can expound on this a little.

From researching putting a stove in an existing fireplace, many recommend putting a block off plate to keep the hot air from going up the chimney. In addition it also seems some have their stoves completely in the firebox.

I do not have a block off plate but the installer put some rock wool in. Obviously that is nit a perfect seal but I'm not too concerned because this is an interior wall chimney.

How are others managing this extra heat with the block off plate and being inside a firebox?

Is a blower neccessary? Just running the stove cooler with less wood or cutting off air supply sooner? Should I just remove the rock wool and let the heat get trapped in the chimney?

Thanks!

 

[bholler]

Hoping u can expound on this a little.

From researching putting a stove in an existing fireplace, many recommend putting a block off plate to keep the hot air from going up the chimney. In addition it also seems some have their stoves completely in the firebox.

I do not have a block off plate but the installer put some rock wool in. Obviously that is nit a perfect seal but I'm not too concerned because this is an interior wall chimney.

How are others managing this extra heat with the block off plate and being inside a firebox?

Is a blower neccessary? Just running the stove cooler with less wood or cutting off air supply sooner? Should I just remove the rock wool and let the heat get trapped in the chimney?

Thanks!

Most do not stuff a stove all the way in a fireplace. Or in one that tight. I just think that top without a convective jacket like inserts have is going to run hotter than normal because the radiant heat can't dissipate well

 

[begreen]

Hoping u can expound on this a little.

From researching putting a stove in an existing fireplace, many recommend putting a block off plate to keep the hot air from going up the chimney. In addition it also seems some have their stoves completely in the firebox.

I do not have a block off plate but the installer put some rock wool in. Obviously that is nit a perfect seal but I'm not too concerned because this is an interior wall chimney.

How are others managing this extra heat with the block off plate and being inside a firebox?

Is a blower neccessary? Just running the stove cooler with less wood or cutting off air supply sooner? Should I just remove the rock wool and let the heat get trapped in the chimney?

Thanks!

In this circumstance, a blower would be helpful.

What led to choosing the freestanding TN20 for this install instead of the TN20 insert?

 

[Flashback87]

In this circumstance, a blower would be helpful.

What led to choosing the freestanding TN20 for this install instead of the TN20 insert?

My wife and myself like the look of a free standing stove better. Also, may do an addition down the road and extending our boiler steam heat would be challenging and expensive. We could move this stove to that new room if we get it.

I'm going to pick up the blower tomorrow. Hoping its not too noisy and hot blow dryer feeling.

I burned today and only put 2-3 logs in at a time and it was much easier to keep the temp in the safe range on stove top. But, it seems like it's not throwing a lot of heat. I know a lot of it is staying in the firebox but I thought with 12 inches of the stove out of the firebox on the hearth there would be more heat. It heated very well when I put in 6 splits but that's when the stove top temp was getting out of hand.

Probably still just a learning curve and I have to figure this out with practice. Definitely need to figure out the air control to keep good combustion but not over fire or smolder.

 

[begreen]

Another option for slowing down the fire is loading E/W.