Does that cap have a hinge? The cap I saw on line had a visible hinge and the cap appeared somewhat skewed. It appears they have improved the design as your cap appears straight across and clean. Nice job. Thanks for sharing.
That is what I was told as well and, the thought of saving an additional $300 sounded great. BUT, my understanding is that you cannot allow this liner to touch the chimney flue lining if you have 4 inches or less of masonry and the flue liner and seals are intact.My chimney runs up the center of the house from the basement and was an open fireplace in good working condition. I put in an insert with an uninsulated flex liner.
I always had smoke issues so last year I tore out the liner and installed a new insulated liner and can say it made a big difference.
Like I said it is an interior chimney any people say they are warmer.
So I am a believer in the insulation.
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That is not even close to right. To be a useable chimney you need 4" nominal masonry walls which is 3.5. Any less than that it is unusable. Then you need clearance from the outside of the masonry to any combustible material. 1" for external chimney 2" for internal.If you dont have that you need insulation.BUT, my understanding is that you cannot allow this liner to touch the chimney flue lining if you have 4 inches or less of masonry and the flue liner and seals are intact.
Ok. Sorry, I did not convey that correctly. Anyway, my setup requires the insulation. Thanks for clarifying this. It appears, to me, that the concept of insulating the flex liner is being portrayed more as an economical option rather than a safety requirement, if applicable.That is not even close to right. To be a useable chimney you need 4" nominal masonry walls which is 3.5. Any less than that it is unusable. Then you need clearance from the outside of the masonry to any combustible material. 1" for external chimney 2" for internal.If you dont have that you need insulation.
There i the safety issue but there is also a big performance increase as well.Ok. Sorry, I did not convey that correctly. Anyway, my setup requires the insulation. Thanks for clarifying this. It appears, to me, that the concept of insulating the flex liner is being portrayed more as an economical option rather than a safety requirement, if applicable.
No it is hung by the top plate in the chimneyIf I comprehended the directions correctly, it is recommended the T of the Olympia Heavy Flex liner "Armor Flex" should be secured and supported within the chimney (or upper firebox in my case).
Yes it will expand but if you stretch the liner out when you install it it will just collapse on itself and not lift at the top.The insulation, if I comprehended this correctly, should not be any closer than 6 inches from the top plate. So, I guess both the Armor Flex liner AND the insulation expand due to temperature rise and, I guess that is why it is recommended to secure the T and allow the top rain cap, storm collar, and clamp to float above the top plate.
What do you all think?
I guess that works if the T IS supported by masonry or secured in the fire chambNo it is hung by the top plate in the chimney
Yes it will expand but if you stretch the liner out when you install it it will just collapse on itself and not lift at the top.
Because the liner has to expand in length upward. If it does this I am afraid the cap will block the flex liner and choke my vent.Why give up on the hinged cap? Do they not make it in your size?
It works just fine. If the tee moves to much I typically just use bricks under it. But the blockoff plate usually holds it in place well enough. I have never attached a tee to anything and never had an issue. And every liner manufacturer has you hang the liner from the top plate.I guess that works if the T IS supported by masonry or secured in the fire chamb
It will not even rigid liners wont expand that much but a heavy flex absolutely will not if installed correctly.Because the liner has to expand in length upward. If it does this I am afraid the cap will block the flex liner and choke my vent.