Trimming down splits..

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
I picked up a truckload of free logs. Nice score but... many of them are about 4 - 6" too long for my stove. What would be the best way to trim these down?

Could use the chain saw - but would need a way to hold the logs (some idea's here would be nice)

Could use the miter saw, but it is spruce and will sap all over it (undesirable) and would need to buy a cheap blade.

Thanks...

Don
 
northof54th said:
Could use the chain saw - but would need a way to hold the logs (some idea's here would be nice)
Put two big round logs on the ground side by each, set the pieces you want to cut on top/between the rounds and hold it down with your foot.

Rather than cut off a small piece, if you cut them in half would they make good N/S pieces?
 
Make a small sawbuck. Safer than getting your feet in there.
 
Got a hydraulic splitter? I sometimes use mine as a vise. Lay a round sideways across the rail, clamp it with the wedge, and go after it with the chain saw. Rick
 
fossil said:
Got a hydraulic splitter? I sometimes use mine as a vise. Lay a round sideways across the rail, clamp it with the wedge, and go after it with the chain saw. Rick

THAT is the way to go. Clamp it, cut off your cookie and repeat. You don't have to worry about it rolling around or putting your foot on it nor do you need to worry about getting the bar in the dirt plus you don't have to bend over to cut.

Those Swiss army splitters sometimes have a big pair of toe nail clippers built in for such an occasion....so there's that. :long:
 
This is probably a bit red neck, but my dad had to do this recently for his mom so she could load shorter splits N/S at night (she fears a split rolling into the glass). He laid down a pair of eight foot 4x4s and then nailed them together. Obviously he made the space between them from edge to edge the length she needed for her stove. Then he laid out splits down the length of the 4x4s and strapped them down with a come along. Then he went down the length of the 4x4s trimming off the excess. I cannot vouch for how effective or safe this is. However, he did not lose any limbs.
 
I bought a new stove with a smaller firebox. I had to reduce quite a few rounds. I built a sawbuck and it works very well. I put a big tarp on the ground and place the sawbuck in the middle. I also use this sawbuck to trim up splits or take a big twisted crotch and noodle it lengthwise. When I do this I place half of a 14" or so round on the sawbuck first. Cheap to build but if you are a particular person like me took a little thinking and effort to make all the pieces be exact for the sawbuck to stand level etc. Tony
 
Thanks for all the good idiea's. I have thought about using the sawsall (as it is electric). The log splitter is a great idea, except that I need to be outside for that. I want to get away from doing this outside (if possible) it's pretty cold here right now. Sawbuck and sawsall might be the way to go.

Anyone used their sawsall for this before?
 
Sawsall might be okay.
Don't laugh. I have a Ryobi cordless chainsaw. I can cut a dozen or so splits in half on 1 battery.
It works pretty well and is very safe to use. $60 without the battery(s). Handy for cutting up blow downs too.
 
fossil said:
Got a hydraulic splitter? I sometimes use mine as a vise. Lay a round sideways across the rail, clamp it with the wedge, and go after it with the chain saw. Rick
thats what i do!
 
fossil said:
Got a hydraulic splitter? I sometimes use mine as a vise.
If you go that far, may as well pull the lever a little more and cut it in half with the wedge. That was the first thing I tried with my splitter to see if it can split a log across the grain.

I've seen some wood processors that actually shear the wood to length rather than make sawdust. I don't care for the rough cuts but hate to see a half cord of sawdust in my wood processing area. Almost feel like going back to using the swede saw.

Maybe not.
 
I had to shorten 3.5 cords of somebody elses wood that I bought at a smoking price last summer. I used a pallet on the ground and set the splits between the flats of the pallet, held down with a foot, and cut off the nub. I had marked the pallet with the desired length. The cookies actually worked fine for burning. Not as well as the splits but decently. This was chainsaw work and outside. Also a lot of bending over and setting the saw down, picking it up, on and on.
 
I've also got a bunch of 20-24" splits, and I just put them on the chop saw (miter saw). they're already pretty dry, so not much sap, and this way you also don't waste as much, since there's less kerf to a circular saw blade than a chainsaw. (also, my chainsaw sucks).
 
So I decided to take advantage of the cold (sort of). The wood was outside, therefore cold enough that the sap was frozen, brought them in and cut them on the chop saw while still cold. Done with no sap and did not have to do it outside.

Decided to cut them in half and they are now burning n/s in the stove. oh yeah here is the reason that i did not want to be outside:

http://www.weatheroffice.gc.ca/city/pages/ab-8_metric_e.html

Thanks for the tips everyone ! !
 
I had to cut down a bunch of wood when I got my VC, and what I ended up doing was using a bunch of scrap wood to build a frame about 3' high and as wide as my saw bar. I fastenned it to a pallet, and put a peice of scrap plywood on the back, at my 18" target length.

I'd stack overlength splits in the frame until it was full up, with one end touching the ply, and the other sticking out the open front. When I had it full, I'd fire up the chainsaw and make one cut down the front edge of the frame, trimming the entire bunch of splits to length. Stack the cut splits, refill the frame and repeat until done.

Every two or three batches, pick up the trimmed off bits as they are getting underfoot and toss them in the "chunkwood" bin for burning later...

If I were redoing it today, I would probably make the sides a bit more solid, and might add a way to put a tie down strap over the top of the pile in order to snug everything down before cutting - however this seems to me to be FAR faster and safer than trying to cut individual splits, especially compared to holding them down with a foot...

Gooserider
 
I had the same problem19-25" splits, I found a solution on the net. I built a frame out of old used 2x6's from an old deck. My goal is to end up with 17" splits, stove holds 18".
First I built 2 boxes 36"x14", simple butt joints, 2-36"-2-11" pieces. One for the top one for the bottom. connect these boxes with 4' 2x6's, 2 on each side, inside the box,I used screws.
Now if you look at it from the 36" side, you have a box with the inside being 30"x37". I put mine about 2" from a brick wall, throw the splits in so they are against the wall. I then run my chain saw down both sides and I have 17+- pieces. I also added two more 2x6's to the front of the bottom box, keeps the saw off the ground.
If I ever build another it will be 4" narrower,32x14 box, just easier with a 16" bar. you do not need the brick wall it just makes it faster. I am sure 2x4's would work also.
Terry
 
Sawzall works pretty good too.
 
LLigetfa said:
northof54th said:
Could use the chain saw - but would need a way to hold the logs (some idea's here would be nice)
Put two big round logs on the ground side by each, set the pieces you want to cut on top/between the rounds and hold it down with your foot.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

It might work to do just that with the 2 big rounds and the chosen split on top, and slip a bungee cord around all three to keep them from moving. Just an idea.......
 
I have used a chop saw to trim up some splits that were too long. Probaly wouldnt want to use a real good one. The one I have was a freeby.
 
I made one of these just for that purpose I can either cut down the middle or on the side which happens to be my stove width. Also I can cut multiple splits at once.
Ill post pics when this site will allow me to. lol
 
I use a sawbuck and a bungie. The bungie is the thicker black rubber one with not too much stretch.
 
I made my sawbuck asymmetrical so when cutting I would have the option of doing this. I stack the slightly longer than required lengths across the short distance between 2 legs, and have the choice of strapping down then trimming the ends off, or cutting down through the middle (so halving the lengths) and the pieces fall away from the saw so no pinching. I can cut heaps of lengths at once, I reckon it is a major time-saver.

Here's a link to my design.
 
Maybe I'm odd, I probably am, but I like the little nubs. Any funky pieces of wood I get that are all knots or twisted beyond splitting get cut into them. Since I scrounge my wood sometimes I get a load of 8" long, 36" thick rounds. They get broken up and tossed in these piles due to them being difficult to stack. They burn great during shoulder seasons. They dry super fast due to the short length and are perfect for when you need a small fire to take the chill off but don't want to get the stove roaring. I save my splits for the cold weather when I need a more complete load with less air pockets.

I think I have just over a cord of them to burn this year. All my wood is raised up off the ground on concrete blocks. The shorts and odds are on a pallet raised up on blocks. I set additional pallets vertically around the edges so I can pile the rounds higher. I have a regular 4x4 pallet and a 4x6 pallet stacked and drying.

Matt
 
Status
Not open for further replies.