Two stoves, same conditions, different problems

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Madison, his pipe is 13' of 6" all the way up according to the earlier post. He ran pipe up through the 8" like a liner if I understand correctly. Odd, but it should draft.

Steve, on a calm day, just shove the test pipe in there crimp down for a temporary test. Do it in the morning, you don't need to leave it in for days. If it is going to make a difference it should be noticeable. However, now that your weather has warmed up it could be getting late for heating with wood.
 
Thanks BG, I missed it in post #20 (i like looking at the pictures, and as my wife often mentions - missed the rest of the details, haha), nonetheless, 13' is on the marginal side for the stove.

did I miss the insert stack description as well? just reread and did not catch it's description.

////////////

I would opine that the observation that soot is drawn up the stack when it is disconnected does not rule in/out draft issues with the 13' stack on the magnolia stove. And quite honestly, I have to agree with Pen, that I get lost in the issues with OP's writing style, no flame intended just my observation.
 
It is a 6 inch pipe all the way to nice clean screened cap at about 13 feet.
Pipe through ceiling and to top of cap is 6 inch in a 8 inch multi-wall pipe even above the roof.
It does not expand to 8 inches like the ceiling trim piece leads you to believe.

I'm not sure where the secondary air intake is on the Magnolia. If it's routing to the secondary tubes is long, it may need a stronger draw, particularly in the milder CA climate. I remember a while back there was a Napoleon owner with the same complaint. Added a few feet of pipe and voila, it was like a different stove.
 
Intake is two channels up the back. One with damper. One without. They are clear.
If the intake was stifled, opening the door a little would greatly would help. It doesn’t work.

Insert has about 13 feet insulated flex liner. 6 inch. .006 thick. Slight S bend. Insulated. Protective mesh over insulation. Damper area block off. Bent S with pipe in damper area. S bend is not spring loaded. Lifted it up. Slid stove back. Wiggled it from the top and it dropped into the stove flange.

Removing a brick helped. I think my next plan is to make something like a ½ brick to put in the back so I have a smaller opening around the baffle. This would tell me more. Won’t be able to do anything for a few weeks. Two trips and relatives visiting and tax stuff.

I have included a drawing of the air wash systems. For the Magnolia to have a clean window, the air would have to follow the red path. This is not possible.
The Osburn air wash works well.
 

Attachments

  • air flow.bmp
    410.4 KB · Views: 141
On a lighter note;
Imagine if the stove designers worked for the auto companies.

You would have to drive the first 10 miles with the hood partially open before it would run correctly.

If you had a drafty convertible, the engine would run fine.
But with a tight hard top you would have to add another 3 feet to the exhaust pipe.

If you turn on the heater, the engine would quit unless you opened the window.

The engine would sputter in some cars if the occupants face forward, but run fine if they all sit sideways.

The slower you go, the dirtier the windshield gets.

You have to buy gas and store it the shed for 3 years before using it.

Exhaust pipes would have to be cleaned regularly to prevent car fires.

If you revved it up late at night, it would still be idling the next morning.
 
Try the chimney extension - should make a difference. I believe that you are not having a good draft.
 
cottonwoodsteve said:
On a lighter note;
Imagine if the stove designers worked for the auto companies.

You would have to drive the first 10 miles with the hood partially open before it would run correctly.

If you had a drafty convertible, the engine would run fine.
But with a tight hard top you would have to add another 3 feet to the exhaust pipe.

If you turn on the heater, the engine would quit unless you opened the window.

The engine would sputter in some cars if the occupants face forward, but run fine if they all sit sideways.

The slower you go, the dirtier the windshield gets.

Sounds like the description of a 50's or 60's British sport car.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.