Type of material for for close call to hot water tank??? (For my parents..kinda an emergency)

[daveswoodhauler]

Ok, so my folks are without power and are in their 70's and will be out until most likely Thursday.
They have a wood stove in the basement, but when my dad got his new furnace and hot water tank, they put the hot water tank too close to the stove. Back in the icestorm of 2008 when he had to use the woodstove, the heat from the woodstove blistered the tank.
Anyway, he never did anything about it, and they are now in the same position this year without power.
What can I use to for a material (Cement board?) that I can place in between the stove and the hot water tank? I am guessing its probably 20-25 inches between the stove and tank, and would like to get something temporary to get the stove running and give my folks heat. (Again, 70's and my dad just had hip replacement surgery)
Any ideas?

 

[Danno77]

Wow, that sucker must get hot if it blistered it from those distances.

It probably is ok without a shield, there shouldn't be anything that could be damaged, but since it's obviously hotter than I'd expect better be safe.

A sheet of Durock should do wonders. I'm not sure of a great way to stand it up between there without seeing pictures, but I bet you could even hang it from the floor joists above with a couple of wires. I dunno. if you can't get ahold of durock or something similar, then a sheet of metal should work, too.

This is just guessing, pics and stove information would probably be useful before you dash to the store.

 

[daveswoodhauler]

Thanks Danno. Sorry, can't post pics as my folks house is bout 15 miles away.
Basically, the setup is an old school woodstove in the basement, and the furnace is on the other side of the chimney.
I was thinkin some durock would be ok, just not sure how I would stand it up...was thinking that I could rest it up against the tank, but then wondered if that might be a bad idea. I am trying to go over in my mind their setup too, as I would like to ppick up the stuff on my way over and can't call mom and pops as they have no phone.
I'll get my nooddle hat going.

 

[Danno77]

Thanks Danno. Sorry, can't post pics as my folks house is bout 15 miles away.
Basically, the setup is an old school woodstove in the basement, and the furnace is on the other side of the chimney.
I was thinkin some durock would be ok, just not sure how I would stand it up...was thinking that I could rest it up against the tank, but then wondered if that might be a bad idea. I am trying to go over in my mind their setup too, as I would like to ppick up the stuff on my way over and can't call mom and pops as they have no phone.
I'll get my nooddle hat going.

Couple coat hangar wires through a couple of holes on the durock. It should hold the weight. You could raise it or lower it to whatever height you need. If you have a way to check the temps regularly that would probably be best.

 

[daveswoodhauler]

Good Idea. I have some pretty heavy picture frame wire, so I guess I could use that. That would allow me to hang it close to the tank, but not right against it. Now I gotta find a building materials place that is open.

 

[BrotherBart]

Four shelf brackets, two on each side should make feet for the Durock.

 

[daveswoodhauler]

Good idea on the feet brackets. I have a couple drill bits for concrete, guessing I can use those?

 

[northernontario]

Quick solution, as suggested by others... sheet(s) of durock (or other cement-type board). You can also use sheet metal (26ga. minimum... I picked up a 4x8 sheet at a hvac supply shop). Typically you are spacing out from a wall (ie, the stove is too close to the wall for clearances listed)... so you install the non-combustable shield with 1" spacers to the wall... this allows airflow between combustible and non-combustible.

In your situation... You could pick up some metal studs, screw the tops to the upper floor joists (assuming exposed ceiling in the basement), and fasten the shield to that. If it's 20-25 inches to the tank, I'd give a minimum of 2" space out from the water tank... depending on how accessible you want it to be. If the stove is old, it's generally assumed to have 36" clearance. Using sheet metal is good for 67% reduction in clearance... (12" clearance). Some really old stoves with no heat shielding built in (and I'm guessing no firebrick), they work on 48" clearance... so 67% = 16" clearance.

Do some google searching for wood stove clearance reduction.

 

[daveswoodhauler]

Here is a very bad sketch of the current setup

 

[vinny11950]

i am thinking of putting a stove in my basement close to my water heater, and the best idea i have come up with is to build some kind of wire/metal frame with Roxul comfort bat in it. It is flame resistant and insulates at the same time.

Implemented with the other ideas from the other members, you should be able to do it.

At Lowes, one big package of Comfort Bat is $35. If you do get it, make sure to get the type without the paper face side.

http://www.roxul.com/residential/products/roxul+comfortbattâ„¢

hope this helps.

 

[Jags]

For temp use - cement board or a sheet of tin will work. Feet like broB stated or even a couple of cinder blocks on each side, to sandwich the material into place.

 

[jimbom]

Quick solution, as suggested by others... sheet(s) of durock (or other cement-type board). You can also use sheet metal (26ga. minimum... I picked up a 4x8 sheet at a hvac supply shop). Typically you are spacing out from a wall (ie, the stove is too close to the wall for clearances listed)... so you install the non-combustable shield with 1" spacers to the wall... this allows airflow between combustible and non-combustible.

In your situation... You could pick up some metal studs, screw the tops to the upper floor joists (assuming exposed ceiling in the basement), and fasten the shield to that. If it's 20-25 inches to the tank, I'd give a minimum of 2" space out from the water tank... depending on how accessible you want it to be. If the stove is old, it's generally assumed to have 36" clearance. Using sheet metal is good for 67% reduction in clearance... (12" clearance). Some really old stoves with no heat shielding built in (and I'm guessing no firebrick), they work on 48" clearance... so 67% = 16" clearance.

Do some google searching for wood stove clearance reduction.

+1 Excellent. Shield close to water tank is optimum.

 

[barwick11]

For temp use - cement board or a sheet of tin will work. Feet like broB stated or even a couple of cinder blocks on each side, to sandwich the material into place.

Yeah I was gonna say, a thin sheet of metal should be just fine. If you're really worried, run a small fan on the "cool" side of the metal sheet.

 

[Joe in MI]

For temp use - cement board or a sheet of tin will work. Feet like broB stated or even a couple of cinder blocks on each side, to sandwich the material into place.

Yeah I was gonna say, a thin sheet of metal should be just fine. If you're really worried, run a small fan on the "cool" side of the metal sheet.

The fan is a great idea! Of course, he would have to buy his folks a generator to run the fan, since the reason they're firing up the woodstove is they have no power! LOL!!

 

[BrotherBart]

The fan is a great idea! Of course, he would have to buy his folks a generator to run the fan, since the reason they're firing up the woodstove is they have no power! LOL!!

For seventy-five years our family has kidded mom about something she said the first year her and dad were married. The electricity went off and she suggested using the Christmas lights.

 

[Flatbedford]

I keep turning on light switches when I walk into another room at home after 48 hours of no power.

I like the standing sheetmetal sandwiched between some cinderblocks. Very quick, cheap, and easy.

 

[begreen]

Lean a piece of cement board up against the hw tank. It's not going anywhere and should suffice. When the power comes on, get a permanent fix in place.

 

[snowleopard]

I keep turning on light switches when I walk into another room at home after 48 hours of no power.

My boiler's been down for almost a year, and every so often my hand twitches towards the thermostat when the room is chilly.

Dave, you're lucky to have them, they're lucky to have you. Hope it all works out well.

 

[daveswoodhauler]

Well, went over there today and they had ther HVAC guy lean some sheetrock (says fire proof or something on it) and I told them that I don't think that that was going to cut it. Actually, there is a steel column about 3 feet out, and with the existing chimney I can easily get some durock and just rest it between the column and chimney and that should be all that is needed. (They will only use the stove 1-2 times per year when the power goes out)
I was surprised that the HVAC just left some sheetrock between the stove and the hot water tank..There was paper backing on the board, so I wasn't that pleased that the HVAC guys would have said that this was ok. This is an older steel stove with single wall pipe. I went over with my mom on how to control the stove and soforth, and just told her to keep the temps below 400 until I can get the durock on there.
On a side note, this stove must have a firebox that is about 4 times of my insert....this thing musta ate about a cord a week.
Thanks for the help folks....just want to keep my parents warm and safe for the time being. (Dad just had hip replacement, so he can't wander to the basement to tend the stove)

 

[begreen]

Dave, take it from one that has been there. Set them up for week long outages or more. Heck, it should be setup so that it can be run 24/7 without worry. These storms are getting more disruptive. Folks need to be prepared for long outages.