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vent pipe 90 elbow issue

Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by pellet9999, Sep 17, 2008.

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  1. pellet9999

    pellet9999 Member

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    breckwell Big e
    Is it ok to go with a 90 elbow right out of the adaptor.( back of stove).?? or is this not a good idea..??

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  2. crausch

    crausch New Member

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    I do not see any reason why not other than one. Several manuals plus the Simpson Pellet vent pro installation manual show a 90 degree elbow at the start.

    Back to the one reason I mention though...Using a "T" with a clean out makes more sense to me. The obvious reason being that it makes your vent pipe cleaning much simpler. If you use a elbow then you would have to take your pipe apart to remove the debree.
  3. bostonbaked

    bostonbaked Member

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    From what I understand the first thing attached to the stove outlet is an (appliance adapter). 3 PVP- AD made by Dura Vent is one that's out there.
  4. crausch

    crausch New Member

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    That is what I was under the impression of too. The dealer that I bought my pipe from seemed very experienced in installing stove ventillation and they said that they preferred to start right off with a cleanout 'T'. He told me it would not matter as long as I seal the connection and recommeded two screws to hold in place. I think you need to do the same if you use the adaptor also.

    As I mentioned on other posts this will be my first year burning pellets, so if anyone knows a good reason why I should not have done, please, please let me know before I get coooold.
  5. DiggerJim

    DiggerJim Feeling the Heat

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    The connector on the Tee (for Dura Vent Pro) has the emobossed locking tabs/slide slots to allow it to lock together or come apart. That's a bit oversized for the 3" pipe coming out the back of the stove (mine anyway) so you'll have to put in lots of silicone to seal it - and then you're only getting the bottom clean out trap off for cleaning - the silicone won't let go. You also can't screw it to the stove unless you ignore the Dura Vent instructions not to drive a screw through both layers (outer & inner) of steel.

    The appliance adapter is a snug fit smoothbore fitting on one side which goes over the output pipe from the stove. The other end has the twist-lock setup to attach to other Dura Vent Pro piping. The stove side gets the silicone & 3 screws (per the instructions for DV). The other side is twist lock so you can attach & detach fairly easily. I used foil tape on all the joints on my stove just for insurance against smoke/CO.
  6. crausch

    crausch New Member

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    Makes sense.

    I still have time to add the adaptor into the mix. I am going to hope the black silicone sealant will do the job though. I have the black vent pipe and would skip the foil tape because esthetics (unless it can painted).
  7. pellet9999

    pellet9999 Member

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    I have talked to Duravent.... you can use EITHER the adaptor OR the appliance adaptor. I have bought both. Im using the regular adaptor.
    They also said its better to have 12 inches of pipe before the first 90 turn,BUT the adaptor counts for 6 inches and using a T instead of a 90 will suffice.That will count for 12 inches.
    Man, I am glad to have a forum for this because it is a drag to figure this out. Anyway, I found out today that my install plan wont work to my satisfaction so I am doing another one.
    Here is another question..... It would work best for me to use 1 piece of 5 ft long flex pipe, Duravent. It says to use this only on chimneys that have an offset. I want to use it
    just as flex pipe so it will be simpler. ..Can I use this flex pipe for a regular ,no chimney install???? It will save me a bunch of connections...Anybody doing this..????thanks
  8. kinsmanstoves

    kinsmanstoves Minister of Fire

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    Please do not skimp on a few bucks and risk safety. No flex unless inside a masonry chimney.

    Eric
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