Verifying ok for door gasket

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n3pro

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Little disappointed it's only been 3 years but every year I have to adjust the door because the gasket fails the dollar bill test. I was going to do it this summer but put it off. I "fluff" the gasket up when I can but it's still keeps getting the dark brown spot at one part. Going to 50 degrees so time to take a dive.

Everywhere on here and youtube I see furnace cement being used, this came with it so I'm assuming it's ok BUT just making sure. Superflex Red high temperature RTV silicone.

Thanks.
 

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n3pro said:
Little disappointed it's only been 3 years but every year I have to adjust the door because the gasket fails the dollar bill test. I was going to do it this summer but put it off. I "fluff" the gasket up when I can but it's still keeps getting the dark brown spot at one part. Going to 50 degrees so time to take a dive.

Everywhere on here and youtube I see furnace cement being used, this came with it so I'm assuming it's ok BUT just making sure. Superflex Red high temperature RTV silicone.

Thanks.

I personally would look for another adhesive that is rated higher than 600 degrees, though you have to be aware that some adhesives are designed for certain materials, ie gasket is made of x, stove body is made of y.

I would call and ask if Meeco cement or rutland black both rated to 2000 degrees, would work with the materials you are bonding.
 
I've never had much luck with hi-temp silicone despite the stove shop telling me to use it. In a pinch, I tried some automotive muffler cement and that worked. The last Rutland door gasket I bought came with a tube of adhesive and it holds well. The gasket however, I'm not impressed with. I fully expected to have to back out the adjustments I made to the door over time but it just barely passed the dollar test as it was and I have no more range of adjustment. I think next time I will buy the next thickness up.
 
I like Jotul's door latch design, it has a spring and is self adjusting. My 3 yr old gasket is still just as tight as the day i bought the stove.
 
Latch side is only half of it. Hinge side needs adjusting as well.
 
Comment still stands. I have no idea how long a gasket should last. But i haven't had to adjust anything yet. 3 yrs could be nothing in the grand scheme of things
 
EJL923 said:
3 yrs could be nothing in the grand scheme of things
The OEM gasket on my RSF lasted about 10 years (with periodic adjustments) but the Rutland gasket I used for replacement I'm sure won’t last near as long. What I ended up doing was to pull the entire firebox forward to get more range of adjustment. Radical, yes, but it helped.
 
n3pro said:
Little disappointed it's only been 3 years but every year I have to adjust the door because the gasket fails the dollar bill test. I was going to do it this summer but put it off. I "fluff" the gasket up when I can but it's still keeps getting the dark brown spot at one part. Going to 50 degrees so time to take a dive.

Everywhere on here and youtube I see furnace cement being used, this came with it so I'm assuming it's ok BUT just making sure. Superflex Red high temperature RTV silicone.

Thanks.

I would not use furnace cement on gasket. You should be able to get a small tube of the right glue at your local hardware.
 
Thank you guys, used furnace cement so we'll see. My door gets adjusted from the top hinge and the latch, wish the bottom hinge was adjustable too. So far so good, the window is staying much cleaner and actually had to pull to get the dollar out. The flames are not moving toward the door anymore.
 
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