Vinyl Replacement windows.

backpack09 Posted By backpack09, Oct 13, 2007 at 4:11 AM

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  1. backpack09

    Minister of Fire

    Sep 10, 2007
    Rochester, Mass
    Now that I have the stove in I am looking towards my next project.

    I have 13 28"x56" 50 year old leaky double hung windows, that the previous owner of my house did not maintain.

    When shopping for replacement windows, what types/styles are important things to look for? I will be installing everything myself.

    I am looking at HD and Lowes selections. Neither stocks my size windows, but they can be special ordered. I am also looking at Anderson and Harvey.

    Home Depot lists a 28"x53" replacement window that I think I would be able to use re-trimming out the top of the window. My only problem with this option is I already have vinyl siding on the house, and do not want to have to piece in now pieces.

    Lowes also lists a 28"x53" window, but calls it a new construction window. What exactly is the difference between that and replacement?

    Also, when the house was wrapped in vinyl, they also wrapped all of the sills with aluminum. Is this going to give me an additional headache?

  2. bruce


    Nov 20, 2005
    long pond pa
    look for certinteed windows or interstate very good for the money
  3. nshif

    New Member

    Oct 7, 2006
    Pioneer, Ca (near Lake Tahoe)
    New construction windows have a nail fin under the siding, replacment woindows are nailed from inside the casing meaning no need to remove any siding. ( of corse you still have to get the old window out which may mean taking a sawzall to the nail fin if there is one under the siding.)
    I just installed $12k worth of Milguard windows I was very happy with a bit pricey but very well made.
  4. whiskeyrichard

    New Member

    Dec 12, 2006
    you may want to get a couple quotes for the job as well as price it out yourself. You'll be suprised how cheaply you can have replacement windows installed for.

    I replaced all the windows in my house. I did about ahlf of them myself and paid the have the remaining half done.

    The difference in how much wood I have to burn to keep the house warm is amazing!

  5. Hogwildz

    Minister of Fire

    Nov 3, 2006
    Next to nuke plant Berwick, PA.
    NSHIF has it right, you should not have to touch the siding.
    Yes you may need to carefully sawzall the old window frames out. Just take the sashes out then work on the frame. You could go with the shorter stock size. Nosr vinylk replacements come with a header that you can adjust. If you still have a gap, frame the ectra space up top in (leaving the required gap) and just cap the outside with a pc of aluminum coil stock the color of your siding or trim. Nice small bead of properly colored silicone or urethane, done. Trim the inside with whatever your want walllah, and no special order costs. All of the windows mentioned are good ones. The only one I have ever heard bad about was Marvin windows.
    I have Andersons that came with this house and likem. Expensive though. Get yourself some double pane, Low E and you will be fine. Look for Enregy Star rating and you may get a tax deduction also.
  6. myzamboni

    Minister of Fire

    May 22, 2007
    Silicon Valley
    +1 on Milgard. I have some Anilin (the company that used to make the Certainteed), and the Milgard are better (easier to operate, more glass area in the opening,etc)
  7. TMonter

    Minister of Fire

    Feb 8, 2007
    Hayden, ID
    If you have the extra money go for wood frame windows they will last longer and the seals will also stay in tact longer.

    Vinyl has a coefficient of expansion of around 40

    Glass has a Coefficient of around 7

    Wood has a coefficient of 9

    Glass and wood expand at close to the same rate meaning that the wood windows will see less stress in their lifetime.

    Fiberglass framed are good too but not quite as available.
  8. myzamboni

    Minister of Fire

    May 22, 2007
    Silicon Valley
    If you have huge swings in temperature (I don't in a mediterranean climate), go with vinyl clad wood so you won' have to repaint
  9. Rhone

    Minister of Fire

    Nov 21, 2005
    I personally like 100% vinyl, for aethetics & ease of maintenance. It's a rare house with wooden windows or wood clad in rainy New England that the wood on the inside windows is without some type of water damage or stains. I like vinyl all white windows inside & out and white trim, always looks like the day you got it. Vinyl expands but that's engineered into the windows, the seals in vinyl windows have the same 20 year warranty against failing as those in wood clad. But, more importantly the Harvey all vinyl windows I have have a lifetime warranty, wood clad from Harvey, Marvin & Andersen only come with 10 year warranties so wood doesn't hold up as well. If you like the look of wood, that might be a good reason to choose it.

    Which should you get? My father's been a carpenter for 40 years, in his career he felt Harvey windows were a step above the others, the only brand he's never had to do a repair job on, and only brand he's not heard a complaint about. He put them in his house, my house, my brothers house. But they only sell to contractors who have a construction account with them (not home owners) so that may not be possible for you to get Harvey. I just installed 6 retrofit windows last month, 3 were new construction and 3 were replacements. New construction should be avoided if possible in a retrofit as they require you remove the entire window and its built in frame, and all trim, in some cases that includes some of the vinyl outside and part of the wall on the interior. The only time one would get new construction on a retrofit is if you're making the window larger or your current show signs they've leaked or damaged the framing around them (bubbling & peeling paint under the window, water stains, rotted window, or carpenter ants around the window) all of which require you at least investigate and possibly repair/replace the framing around the window. In my case the reason I went with 3 new construction was that 2 windows were rotted and the paint below them pealing (leaks) the other carpenter ants were entering/exiting a hole in it (on the outside). I had to get to the framing around the problem windows to inspect so that meant new construction windows in those cases. Replacement windows you normally just have to remove some trim on the inside of the windows, then pull out the nails holding the aluminum chases, pull the two glass out and the chase will come with it and watch out for flying springs! After putting in the new you put the trim back on and touch it up. But, I didn't come across any instructions on how to cap the replacements with aluminum. Covering the trim with aluminum should be done where you live (rainy New England), with an aluminum bender, and knowledge of how to weatherize them properly so the task may be best left to the pro's. In particular after removing the old window you need to put in the aluminum that protects the sill before putting in the new window.

    Here's some tips:
    If you don't specify the window may come with half screens, I don't recommend half screens. When pushed up they don't seal properly and bugs sneak around them. If there's a chance of rain I like to open the my windows on the top 1", can't do that with half screens. If you want to turn on a house fan, only being able to open the bottom the breeze comes in the back of your neck drives me crazy. So, you may want to specify full screens.

    You should mix & match the windows. The south windows should have as high an SHGC rating as possible (as long as the south side of your house gets sunlight). That's the % of free heat energy from sunlight the window lets into your house, higher is better. You can reduce your heating load by doing such, some people can heat their entire house through spring & fall just from getting windows with a high SHGC for the south ones and then the windows with a low U-Value for the other sides. As long as from the same company & style you won't be able to tell the difference between them. Unfortunately the windows with the most SHGC have the least insulating value and need to be covered at night (curtains, blinds, etc) else you can lose all or even more than you gained. Also in summer you want the blinds/curtains closed to avoid the free heat from the sun. Some people have overhangs that let the sunlight in during winter, but when the sun gets higher during the summer it blocks the sunlight from entering.

    The grids you choose will make a big impact on how your house looks. If going for colonial you usually get 6 grids on top and 6 on the bottom, or 8 over 8 depending on the size of your current windows. If going for the cottage look you should get 6 or 8 on top, and 1 on the bottom (basically grids on top, no grids on bottom) which always makes your windows look like they're open & cheery both from the inside and out even when they're closed. Those interested in the most solar gain, will get 1 over 1 (no grids) as the grids inside will block some of the free energy from the sunlight.

    Key features IMHO is that you can flip them down for cleaning, if you get the grids make sure they're inside the window panes, and I like removeable screens for the south windows in particular as they can block up to 50% of the suns free energy. I like to take them out on my South windows during winter and find being able to do that from the inside is nice.

    Good luck
  10. elkimmeg


    Harvey windows are real good windows. Replacement windows are just that they replace the top and bottom sash if you frame in in good repair. bad repair the whole window needs replacement

    Never bought a replacement window from Home Crapo. Harvey's require an account with harveys and proof of a contractor's license

    since you live in eastern Ma I do have a few companies I do business with that will sell to you. Upon recommendation of Horner Mill work And I can supply the link later the last addition I did I installed Sliverline windows. But here the scoop Silverline was purchased By Anderson just for a quality mid grade window to compete with Harveys These are terrrific price point windows excellent quality even offering drills with in the glass also double lock and safety locks where one can open the window 2" and still be locked to prevent unauthorize entry

    Better yet a horner sales man will come out to your home and measure you windows, so no costly measuring mistakes on you. then they will deliver them even place them in a garage if you request google horner mill work If you need more advice just PM me
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