Wedge Placement to split a large round - softwood this case

I've tried both the Fiskars and your standard 8lb maul. For me, the Fiskars works better. Keep in mind you've been using the old school tools for a long time. You know them well, and know how to use them the best for your needs. I'm new to this, and I found that the Fiskars was easier to get started with, didn't fatigue me as easily, and splits just as good.

Each to their own.

Use it. If it works, don't try to fix it....unless you find something better.

Wise words

I use the fiskars and a 8 pound maul on a regular basis. If I am working with soft maple or red oak I will use the fiskars. More difficult woods or green knotty pine I use the maul. If I could only have one I would use the maul because I can drive a wedge with it.

Checking in, seems I may have missed email notice on the last few replies, or my memory is worse than I think : (

I trying to apply the good advice here, and I read the good text "book" pointed to in this thread... it is fun reading I think even if nothing is learned. The author has a very down-to-earth style of speaking/writing.

So, before buying a Fiskar (still a possibility and under $50 for the X27 36") I decided to try sharpening. First I took my traditional wedge and sharpened it with a hand file (I may need to get better files, I've read buy only Nicholson - USA made, still?). It is still not sharp, but the edge has a smoother edge. I then went with this one improvement with my 8# (I think, feels like 20#) maul, the sharpened wedge and my cone shaped wedge. I took also the strategy to "peel" the large rounds, using one as a work table. First I gave a few good whacks (good for me anyway, maul started from directly over my head) with the dull maul. It didn't accomplish anything I could see, not even any cracks and very little in the way of dents. So I took the much sharper wedge and tried to start it into the round a few inches in from the edge. I positioned the wedge so that the bit length was aligned (tangent to) the growth rings. A few light taps with the maul made me conclude the wedge was indeed not very sharp and I decided to use the cone wedge. It started very easily and while it was easy to drive for the first 2/3 of its length the steep widening near the top made additional progress very slow, but controlled. I didn't count but will estimate I hit the cone wedge more than 5 times, good square hits too, they were. Starting each round this way resulted in either a side of the round splitting away or the round split approximately through the heart. In either case I was able to split those pieces with much less effort and could in many splits accomplish a split with one hit of the maul. I add that in the process I also sharpened the maul, using a grinding wheel and a file.

I'm still interested in getting a Fiskar, but have not yet taken a purchase step.