Well Water Treatment System

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

gfreek

Minister of Fire
Nov 5, 2010
1,702
WNYS
So I need a new water treatment system, had testing done & different quotes with different systems and prices. Have hard water with iron and iron bacteria, sulfur, slight manganese, pH is Ok. .Options : A) Chlorine, retention tank, carbon & softener ( most expensive) B) Hydrogen peroxide, carbon & softener C) Softener with Silica based filter media all one unit & UV light . Had a chlorine system before, the injector would always plug and the retention tank started to leak... Any input on these systems, mostly B and C, thanks
 
How much manganese?

Reason I ask is overconsumption of manganese damages the brain and results in permanent Parkinson's like symptoms. Commonly diagnosed in welders.

I'd want a system capable of removing manganese if it was to be used for drinking/cooking.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ashful
How much manganese?

Reason I ask is overconsumption of manganese damages the brain and results in permanent Parkinson's like symptoms. Commonly diagnosed in welders.

I'd want a system capable of removing manganese if it was to be used for drinking/cooking.
Manganese is classified as an aesthetic issue in water only. Must be different to drink it than absorb it the way welders do.

That said, it’s super easy to remove and nobody likes orange toilets!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ashful
So I need a new water treatment system, had testing done & different quotes with different systems and prices. Have hard water with iron and iron bacteria, sulfur, slight manganese, pH is Ok. .Options : A) Chlorine, retention tank, carbon & softener ( most expensive) B) Hydrogen peroxide, carbon & softener C) Softener with Silica based filter media all one unit & UV light . Had a chlorine system before, the injector would always plug and the retention tank started to leak... Any input on these systems, mostly B and C, thanks

I like A. Chlorine is good stuff and the injector equipment is almost the same as that for peroxide. Since you have iron bacteria I don’t like C at all.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ashful
Manganese is classified as an aesthetic issue in water only. Must be different to drink it than absorb it the way welders do.

Not true, however the effects of manganese have really only become widely known in the last decade, and are still argued over especially with relation to welders due to the huge liability employers would assume from it's effects. Manganese overdose (manganism) has long term side effects that are often misdiagnosed as Parkinson's or even Alzheimer's.

The US has a limit of 0.30 mg/L in drinking water, Canada 0.12 mg/L with an ideal target of less than 0.02 mg/L in drinking water.


Not trying to derail this thread, just sharing information.
 
Not true, however the effects of manganese have really only become widely known in the last decade, and are still argued over especially with relation to welders due to the huge liability employers would assume from it's effects. Manganese overdose (manganism) has long term side effects that are often misdiagnosed as Parkinson's or even Alzheimer's.

The US has a limit of 0.30 mg/L in drinking water, Canada 0.12 mg/L with an ideal target of less than 0.02 mg/L in drinking water.


Not trying to derail this thread, just sharing information.
Occupational exposure to manganese is not equivalent to manganese presence in drinking water. In drinking water it’s a secondary contaminant, just aesthetic. Discoloration, odors, etc. a little basic google work will show you that it’s not a health concern.

Still good to remove and easy.
 
Occupational exposure to manganese is not equivalent to manganese presence in drinking water. In drinking water it’s a secondary contaminant, just aesthetic. Discoloration, odors, etc. a little basic google work will show you that it’s not a health concern.

Still good to remove and easy.

I posted 2 links contrary to your opinion. So we'll just agree to disagree.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Highbeam
Thanks for the responses...I've found that the suggested max Manganese levels vary. I had an extensive water test done in 2013 per USEPA guideline, the MCL , maximum contaminant level, was .05mg/L, my level was .03mg/L.... NY state MCL is .3mg/L, total iron and manganese concentration not to exceed .5mg/L..
 
Thanks for the responses...I've found that the suggested max Manganese levels vary. I had an extensive water test done in 2013 per USEPA guideline, the MCL , maximum contaminant level, was .05mg/L, my level was .03mg/L.... NY state MCL is .3mg/L, total iron and manganese concentration not to exceed .5mg/L..
So you’re at 0.03 and the mcl is 0.3. That’s 10x higher! Great news.

Read closely at the epa. Manganese is a secondary contaminant. Taste and odor, aesthetic, not dangerous. I’ll try to link here.


It’s super easy to remove though and then you won’t have the staining.
 
Last edited:
Thanks all...This is what I went with along with a UV light with pre-filter..... So far it s been great, no smell, no staining, tastes OK, etc. not using Zero Water filter pitcher anymore..
 
Chlorine is an endocrine and neuro toxin.
Haha! Water itself is toxic if you consume too much.

Get used to chlorine. Most of the world has and countless lives saved. It’s all about the dose.
 
We regularly swap out our chlorine quills (injectors) at the municipal water plant here; in the meantime they soak in vinegar to remove any deposits. In case that may help with your maintenance regimen.
 
Ok to the op we had similar water problems in our house. When we moved in there was a softener system with pre and post filters that worked ok but was a pain. I swapped it out for an air injection filter system with pre and post filter. It works far better with very little maintenance. The pre filter gets changed once every 2 months because we have allot of particulate and the post filter every 6 months. Otherwise it backflushes itself. They say the filter media will need changed between 5 and 10 years depending upon the level of iron we have. Ours will probably be closer to 5.
 
This is what we used had it speced out by my buddy who is an engineer who designs lots of water systems

Screenshot_20221123-145107.png
 
This is what we used had it speced out by my buddy who is an engineer who designs lots of water systems

View attachment 303631
Nice system. Basically what I have. The pre filter makes sense but what does the post filter do? The iron filter is an excellent filter itself with a very low micron rating.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bholler
Nice system. Basically what I have. The pre filter makes sense but what does the post filter do? The iron filter is an excellent filter itself with a very low micron rating.
Some of the manganese gets through because it takes a little longer to oxidize so it can be filtered out after air exposure. I don't really need it the levels aren't high enough to effect taste or safety but we would get staining.

Edit now that I am thinking about it I think it wasn't the manganese it was a little ferrous or ferric iron. But I can't remember. I will see him this weekend and ask him. I know that filter is really fine and what it's filtering out is black
 
Last edited:
If you’re getting break through, where some iron or manganese makes it past the filter, that usually means it is undersized. A bigger iron filter of this type means the water will pass through more slowly and have time to convert to a solid and be caught. A second filter won’t hurt though and should not need service.

The iron and manganese are not dangerous, just an aesthetic problem in levels seen in all but the worst groundwater. That staining is a total pain to remove.
 
If you’re getting break through, where some iron or manganese makes it past the filter, that usually means it is undersized. A bigger iron filter of this type means the water will pass through more slowly and have time to convert to a solid and be caught. A second filter won’t hurt though and should not need service.

The iron and manganese are not dangerous, just an aesthetic problem in levels seen in all but the worst groundwater. That staining is a total pain to remove.
The manganese in our water was 5x the recommend safe level. Yes in most cases it isn't a safety issue but ours was supposedly high enough it could be.
 
Ok to the op we had similar water problems in our house. When we moved in there was a softener system with pre and post filters that worked ok but was a pain. I swapped it out for an air injection filter system with pre and post filter. It works far better with very little maintenance. The pre filter gets changed once every 2 months because we have allot of particulate and the post filter every 6 months. Otherwise it backflushes itself. They say the filter media will need changed between 5 and 10 years depending upon the level of iron we have. Ours will probably be closer to 5.
Can you share what pre & post filters you are using. I have a simple 4x10 aqua pure whole house canister filter, but I don't drink the water. I have been wanting to get a set up like you described, and now that thew mortgage is paid off, I can afford it. But will be a DIY and not looking to spend thousands. Looks like that one is a decent procduct at a decent price. Thanks
 
Can you share what pre & post filters you are using. I have a simple 4x10 aqua pure whole house canister filter, but I don't drink the water. I have been wanting to get a set up like you described, and now that thew mortgage is paid off, I can afford it. But will be a DIY and not looking to spend thousands. Looks like that one is a decent procduct at a decent price. Thanks
Just a 50 micron before and 5 micron after. I should have put a larger prefilter in though
 
How much water does that iron eater system backwash at night?
I honestly have no idea on volume. It backflushes for 15 mins I believe
 
I honestly have no idea on volume. It backflushes for 15 mins I believe
Usually at high gpm. Think 10 gpm. So you’re dumping 150 gallons each time plus a rinse of several minutes. The theory is that well water is essentially free so it’s okay to dump. I dislike wasting the water so I stretch my backwash cycles to weekly but some systems don’t allow that.
 
Usually at high gpm. Think 10 gpm. So you’re dumping 150 gallons each time plus a rinse of several minutes. The theory is that well water is essentially free so it’s okay to dump. I dislike wasting the water so I stretch my backwash cycles to weekly but some systems don’t allow that.
Mine is every 3 days I tried stretching it out further but it didn't work