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Whitfield Profile 30 - faulting after 1+ hours

Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by colo00, Nov 25, 2013.

  1. colo00

    colo00 New Member

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    The stove starts normally, the flame is high for about 15 minutes, then the flame dies down, then it just seems like the stove struggles, then it faults. I cleaned the stove thoroughly. I replaced the photoeye, but no change. I bypassed the switches, but no change. Could it be the control panel (new fuse? recalibrate? new panel?).
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2013

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  2. Phil Do's fire.

    Phil Do's fire. Minister of Fire

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    Hyde Park, NY
    I had a Whit 30. Easy stove to fix. Question, when the stove is struggling, does it stop feeding pellets or does the burnpot fill with pellets and it goes out? If the fuse was bad, the stove wouldn't turn on. Is the control panel blinking or going out when the fault occurs? I have wiring diagram for this stove and manual loading on my pC
  3. colo00

    colo00 New Member

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    It feeds pellets, but not so much as it builds up in the burn pot. If I look at it after it faults there are either no pellets or only a small amount. When it faults the control panel blinks.
  4. turbosporsche

    turbosporsche Member

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    That's because when the stove starts it goes into a programmed loop mode.

    Dumps pellets
    Turns on igniter
    Dumps a little more.
    Waits some time
    Dumps more
    Let's flame almost go out to create hot coals
    Dumps more then looks for flame via eye.

    Takes anywhere from 5 minutes to 15.

    Once it sees a flame it goes into normal mode which it allows u to raise room blower speed and heat level.

    I moved my eye into the shoot so it's a straight shot to the burn pot. Cheaper than the relocation kit. And haven't had an issue since.
  5. Phil Do's fire.

    Phil Do's fire. Minister of Fire

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    Did you bypass the Vacuum switch? If the eye is pointing into the flame, sounds like auger motor is worn . The bushing for the shaft wears on this model and also causes the auger to bind. Updated bushing is available.
  6. hockeypuck

    hockeypuck Feeling the Heat

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    south central NH
    bump.. see my post
  7. colo00

    colo00 New Member

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    I bypassed all switches (pressure & both high-limit). I checked the door gasket. I put in a new control board, but stove is still not working appropriately. The auger motor sounded like it was working, but the collar was not moving. I removed shaft and there was some build up on it so I cleaned that off; the bushing looked fine. See attached.

    Attached Files:

  8. colo00

    colo00 New Member

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    I noticed that the auger motor has some discoloration. Does that indicate anything or is that typical? See pic.

    Attached Files:

  9. Phil Do's fire.

    Phil Do's fire. Minister of Fire

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    As stated , if the auger shaft is not turning and the motor makes noise, the gear box attached to the motor is bad. ^ screws take it apart, take a peek inside
  10. turbosporsche

    turbosporsche Member

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    It's the photo eye. If the green light flashes on the front of the stove after it burns out. That tells you the eye lost flame detection after startup.

    Take eye out clean it or even reposition it. I couldn't spend the 300 for a relocation eye kit so I made my own. Drilled a hole in the feed tub put eye in it then used some epoxy to hold it in. Haven't had an issue yet.
  11. Phil Do's fire.

    Phil Do's fire. Minister of Fire

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    Not all Whit profile stoves require the photo eye relocate kit, only early production units, mine did not. It wasstated the motor is running but auger not turning is a bad gear (s) in the auger motor :)
  12. turbosporsche

    turbosporsche Member

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    Did not see that. ;)
  13. Don2222

    Don2222 Minister of Fire

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    X2 I agree

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