Hi all is there a way to bypass the ignitor and just light by hand I cannot afford to buy one right now and as it stands it will not stay running for more then ten minutes after i manually light it. and the green ignitor light is flashing so figured bad ignitor is causing board to shut it down. the other two lights are steady green.
winslow ps-40 help needed
- Thread starter larrycase680
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Ignition Failure - Code - Ready light is constant red and ignite light flashes two short blinks. Did you check the fuse with a meter?
Hopper is out of pellets ----- Fill the hopper with pellets
Auger tube was not full of pellets when start button was pushed -------- When cool, empty pellets in Burn-Pot and push start button again
Burn-Pot dirty - holes plugged ---------Clean the Burn-Pot
Igniter not functioning ----- Replace the igniter
Igniter fuse blown ----- Replace 6 amp fuse located on front of the control board
Hopper is out of pellets ----- Fill the hopper with pellets
Auger tube was not full of pellets when start button was pushed -------- When cool, empty pellets in Burn-Pot and push start button again
Burn-Pot dirty - holes plugged ---------Clean the Burn-Pot
Igniter not functioning ----- Replace the igniter
Igniter fuse blown ----- Replace 6 amp fuse located on front of the control board
yes I did all three lights are green just the ignitor light is flashing green. I tried wiring ignitor direct to extension cord it does not get hot. does a bad ignitor cause board to shut stove down? I have manually light stove and it stops feeding pellets after approx 10 - 15 minutes. Thanks for any and all help.
I don't see anything in the manual about green lights in the trouble shooting area. I do not own one of these stoves, however, if it lights manually and then dies after 10 to 15 mins (which is the duration of the starting cycle) I would suspect another issue besides the igniter. First and most important question that must be asked is when was the last time it was cleaned, really cleaned good? Second do you have a thermostat hooked up? If you do bypass and run it manually to determine if that has anything to do with it not staying running. I suspect that it dies because the stove is not asking for heat due to thermostat issue. Then we can go from there.
When you say new control board, how new? Was it just put in and this is the first time you are running the stove or was it working after the new board was put in? What was wrong with the old control board if you know?
oh yeah I am assuming you have the manual for your stove but if you don't you can get it here.
http://www.woodpelletheat.com/WinslowManual.pdf
oh yeah I am assuming you have the manual for your stove but if you don't you can get it here.
http://www.woodpelletheat.com/WinslowManual.pdf
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
The stove uses a snap disc for proof of fire and if that 140
snap disc isn't closed when the controller checks it after there is suffient time for a fire to start it will shut the stove down. See page 24 of your manual, this switch needs to be cleaned about every 100 bags of pellets burned.
Now tell us if the stove dropped pellets by itself when you attempted to light it?
There is a high limit switch that may have to be reset see page 25 in the manual.
Be certain that the stove is off, cold, and unplugged before working with both of those switches.
There is also a vacuum switch but that is for another go round.
snap disc isn't closed when the controller checks it after there is suffient time for a fire to start it will shut the stove down. See page 24 of your manual, this switch needs to be cleaned about every 100 bags of pellets burned.Now tell us if the stove dropped pellets by itself when you attempted to light it?
There is a high limit switch that may have to be reset see page 25 in the manual.
Be certain that the stove is off, cold, and unplugged before working with both of those switches.
There is also a vacuum switch but that is for another go round.
As for board its brand new first run with it and I have no clue as to what was bad on old board as it was MIA when I got stove for $50.00. as for pellets yes it drops pellets on its own. from what I can see it is very clean inside as for the the snap disc I can pull it and check it out in morning.
As Smokey said above, if the POF switch never sees the right temp in the exhaust (if Smokey is correct, 140), then it will shut the stove down. Usual time limit for that is just about 10-15 minutes, depending on the particular stove.
What brand pellets are you using, and how much did you put in the burnpot for the manual lighting you did?
), then it will shut the stove down. Usual time limit for that is just about 10-15 minutes, depending on the particular stove.What brand pellets are you using, and how much did you put in the burnpot for the manual lighting you did?
Michigans are one of the poorer pellets.....try getting something better, and put a little bigger amount in the burn pot.
MSmith66
Feeling the Heat
When you push the start button and with in a few seconds the stove shuts down, then you may have a vacuum issue, If the ignitor light the pellets and the auger stops feeding after a fews mins then you may have a P.O.F issue. The way I read your post, it sounds like you may have a vacuum issue. That ignitor will not start if the vacuum snap disc has not closed. You may need to clean the "snot", ash, out of that stove.
briansol
Minister of Fire
As someone with the same stove (insert model), usually when this happens, the snap disc in the combustion blower (exhaust) is toast. Jump it with a piece of wire to test. I've replaced this disc 4 times in 6 years. They keep popping on me. it's a poor design or something. It never really even gets dirty in here for me, but they keep dieing.
the guy at the stove store ususally uses a lighter on it and gets it really hot and waits to hear it actually 'snap'. when it doesn't, he goes, yep, you killed another one and gets another one from the bin. $35.
the guy at the stove store ususally uses a lighter on it and gets it really hot and waits to hear it actually 'snap'. when it doesn't, he goes, yep, you killed another one and gets another one from the bin. $35.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
briansol
Minister of Fire
I went through this a few years back as outlined by this thread.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/my-stove-wont-stay-lit.29977/
i still don't have a ceramic as smokey pointed out back in '09 for me to get :X
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/my-stove-wont-stay-lit.29977/
i still don't have a ceramic as smokey pointed out back in '09 for me to get :X
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
I had my first run in with my POF just a short while ago it had a bit too much crud on it.
I removed the fines first (this issue was only on my absolute lowest feed rate and several days later it went #3 again).
So off came the POF and a little damp cloth treatment, back in it went. Doing just fine.
Oh my POF is ceramic. On of the few things that was done right on my bucket of parts.
I removed the fines first (this issue was only on my absolute lowest feed rate and several days later it went #3 again).
So off came the POF and a little damp cloth treatment, back in it went. Doing just fine.
Oh my POF is ceramic. On of the few things that was done right on my bucket of parts.
Let me start by saying Thank you all so much. I cleaned the pof and boom she is now stay on only thing is i get a little black shut on window so going to shut down and do a good cleaning.
briansol
Minister of Fire
Awesome! great to hear it was an easy fix. Keep an eye on it, as that's been the #1 thing to 'breakdown' on my stove and the root of most of my 'no fire' issues each time.
briansol
Minister of Fire
Try replacing that snap disc with a new one.
Also, if you haven't, make sure that your flue passages are clean (the allen head block offs on the side of the unit).
Also, if you haven't, make sure that your flue passages are clean (the allen head block offs on the side of the unit).
went through it again cleaning every thing I could and yes sir I removed all the block off plates. it burns better now so must have missed something on first go around no more black shut when running. It has been running great since so guess we will see I will pick up new snap switch just to have on hand. Is there any heat reclaimer one can put in chimney flue seem like a lot of loss there.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
No device should be installed on a pellet stove vent, besides that ash issues they cause they will remove too much of the heat and lower the flue gas temperature to the point creosote, tars, and fine fly ash will condense in the venting.
hearthtools
Moderator Emeritus
I'm just post and bumping for others that might have this issue.
I serviced a ps40 that would just stop feeding after 15 minutes no error lights.
Ignition light still on and all other systems working fine.
Found that the high limit was tripping without tripping the reset button . So it would cool back Down in a few minutes and work again.
Switch was bad. But testing switch it worked fine after I heated up switch over 250 and let reset trip.
I serviced a ps40 that would just stop feeding after 15 minutes no error lights.
Ignition light still on and all other systems working fine.
Found that the high limit was tripping without tripping the reset button . So it would cool back Down in a few minutes and work again.
Switch was bad. But testing switch it worked fine after I heated up switch over 250 and let reset trip.
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