Wood master flex fuel 60

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Rob zabil

New Member
Oct 18, 2020
6
Mission B.C. Canada
Hello, I purchased this boiler in March of 2018 and just recently finished the install and fired for the first week.
the unit is kicking out on high limit before my buffer tanks are up to temp
Return from load to tank coming back at 140 to 150f max
Supply from the tanks leaving at no more than 165f max.
the divertering valve is set,
The instructions with this unit do not tell me anything about where to wire in buffer tank sensors, so at this point they are not in.
I’ve thought about a manual aquasat in the buffer tank wire into the call for heat on the board. But really should I have to be doing this?
I gave up for a week or so, and now I’ve come back to the boiler and the fan inducer fault comes up. The fan is clearly spinning and there are no loose wires. I’m a certified plumber and gas fitter, but at this point I need real help
Over the phone or pay someone to set this unit up properly. I’m in mission bc Canada. Please help. Winter is coming.
 
I'm not familiar with that model. Is Woodmaster any help?
 
Some pictures of your installation would be helpful. What is the capacity of your storage tanks?
Some pictures of your installation would be helpful. What is the capacity of your storage tanks?
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One possible explanation for a high-limit condition might be the diverter valve is not responding properly to the boiler return temperature. When the return temperature exceeds 140F then the valve diverts hot water to the buffer tanks instead of the boiler return. Proper operation of the diverter valve depends on the correct placement of the temperature probe for the thermostatic head. Can you take a picture of the temperature probe so we can see where and how it is installed?
 
One possible explanation for a high-limit condition might be the diverter valve is not responding properly to the boiler return temperature. When the return temperature exceeds 140F then the valve diverts hot water to the buffer tanks instead of the boiler return. Proper operation of the diverter valve depends on the correct placement of the temperature probe for the thermostatic head. Can you take a picture of the temperature probe so we can see where and how it is installed?
 

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I realize this isn’t ideal, but once everything is up to temp it shouldn’t matter, I actually ground down the shoulders on the tee slightly to make proper contact. When I first to put thermostatic head on the diverter valve, it was basically flopping around like I wet noodle unless it was at 2 or below, even when everything was up to temp, this limited my adjustment. The book says start with the valve on highest setting, this wasn’t possible. So I actually added and very thin disk between the two for more control. Maybe turf the valve, and the head, re pipe and try again? The temp numbers are correct according to the manual though.
 
Once the return water temperature is greater than 140F is when it matters most. In order for the full BTU capacity of the boiler to be available the plunger on the diverter valve must be completely depressed by the thermostatic head. The force necessary to do that requires that the entire surface area of the sensing bulb to be at approximately the same temperature as the pipe it is attached to. What I see in the last picture indicates this is not the case. Only a small part of the bulb area is in contact with cast iron T. The installation manual provides no instructions for mounting the sensing bulb other than this picture.
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I did manage to find installation instructions for the thermostatic head and have attached them. This picture is from the manual. I think if the bulb is mounted as shown the thermostatic head will perform much better.

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Once the return water temperature is greater than 140F is when it matters most. In order for the full BTU capacity of the boiler to be available the plunger on the diverter valve must be completely depressed by the thermostatic head. The force necessary to do that requires that the entire surface area of the sensing bulb to be at approximately the same temperature as the pipe it is attached to. What I see in the last picture indicates this is not the case. Only a small part of the bulb area is in contact with cast iron T. The installation manual provides no instructions for mounting the sensing bulb other than this picture.
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I did manage to find installation instructions for the thermostatic head and have attached them. This picture is from the manual. I think if the bulb is mounted as shown the thermostatic head will perform much better.

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I’ll re pipe and give that a shot. I’ve got other issues as well:
Spoke to wood master today, so far they couldn’t even tell me where to plug my tank sensors into the I/O board
My igniter kit is missing the relay, temp sensor, fuse, and silicon
Wood master tells me I need a new fan, (inducer fan fault). Even though it’s spinning normally. They told me to contact my dealer. Left a message.
There has to someone who installs and services these boilers in my area. If not, I guess I’ll just keep changing parts.
Winter is coming, I’m going to get to a point where I have to drain everything down and wait till spring.
 
So woodmaster tells me
To plug my buffer tank sensors into the supply and return temp slots in the I/O board. Problem is, those slots are taken with FACTORY SENSORS at the back of the boiler. So what, just cut those off? This is crazy. They know nothing about their own product.
 

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I suspect though that they should know more than you might get from here. Dont recall reading many Woodmaster experiences here. (Someone can feel free to show me wrong though). So I would keep communicating with them. Painful as it might be.
 
Where is the dealer who sold it? I would think he'd want it to work.