Wood Stacking Kriss-Cross

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

Burner73

Member
Jul 22, 2008
52
NY
I noticed in many of your pictures you cross the ends of the wood pile and then stack all the pieces in the center the in the same direction.
I just checked my "uncovered" unidirectional wood pile. A lot of the wood is rather wet and almost looks like it will begin to rot soon. I was hoping not to cover it but it looks like I will have to.

I re-stacked some of the wood and tried crossing the direction of the wood for the "Whole Pile". It definitely wastes tons of space but it looks like the wood will get much more air flow and dry better.

Has anyone stacked this way who does not have a wood shed? Also I was trying to devise a way to lay the splits like bricks so the "mortor joints" don't lineup. THis would give much more stability to the pile. Haven't really figured out a good way to do it...yet

Pics are welcome.

TIA
 
I stacked some hickory last year the way your talking about and in the pic below, it seemed to dry faster as I burned it with only 6-7 months of drying this way. It was dry enough to use in my wood furnace in my basement and keep the house somewhat warmish.

Shipper
 

Attachments

  • Hickory drying.jpg
    Hickory drying.jpg
    100.6 KB · Views: 1,120
It takes a lot more time to do it. It also is hard with certain types of wood. I have made a large cubes of crisscrossed black
walnut. Its about 6x6x6 on one huge pallet. I'll know in the fall this year how well it did. Hopefully its not a nice living space for critters.
 
Shipper50 said:
I stacked some hickory last year the way your talking about and in the pic below, it seemed to dry faster as I burned it with only 6-7 months of drying this way. It was dry enough to use in my wood furnace in my basement and keep the house somewhat warmish.

Shipper

My wife would leave me if I started stacking my wood like that!
 
Bubbavh said:
Shipper50 said:
I stacked some hickory last year the way your talking about and in the pic below, it seemed to dry faster as I burned it with only 6-7 months of drying this way. It was dry enough to use in my wood furnace in my basement and keep the house somewhat warmish.

Shipper

My wife would leave me if I started stacking my wood like that!
I wont ask why, but I don't have a wife. :smirk:

Shipper
 
Burner your wood is probably wet from the rain we had the last couple days...don't worry about it and leave it uncovered till Thanksgiving. The crisscrossing helps prevent the rolls from collapsing ...adds a measure of stability. As long as the wood is off the ground ...like on pallets it won't rot.
 
I used to 'free stack' like the OP mentioned but nicking a stack with the edge of our snow plow blade this winter made me re-think how I was stacking. I switched to this method and I love it - stacks go up real fast and they are seasoning very well:

P1010028.jpg


Shari
 
Shari said:
I used to 'free stack' like the OP mentioned but nicking a stack with the edge of our snow plow blade this winter made me re-think how I was stacking. I switched to this method and I love it - stacks go up real fast and they are seasoning very well:

P1010028.jpg


Shari

Shari - do you have the wood stacked in two rows? Those look pretty simple and slick...
 
Wood needs good air flow to dry well, or a long time with poorer air flow. It also is impt to raise the stack off the ground, on pallets, 6x6's, etc., to get airflow underneath and prevent absorption of ground moisture in the lower layers. Whatever stacking method accomplishes this is fine. I use the criss-crossed ends and then fill the middle only because that holds the stacks without external support. Don't cover with a tarp, don't cover the sides, and don't cover with anything without good airflow between the cover and the stack. You don't want condensation dripping down on top of the stack. No cover is better than a bad cover. I cover with scrap corrugated steel panels.

I cut my pieces at 18", stacks are 8' long and about 4' high, and are 3x18" wide. I align the stacks so the prevailing winds blow into the stacks broadside. If you have stacks side by side, leave plenty of space between the stacks to promote airflow and allow easy access to fill the wheelbarrow or whatever you use to move wood to your stove location.
 
Woodsman_WI said:
Shari - do you have the wood stacked in two rows? Those look pretty simple and slick...

Yes, there are two rows with air space between the rows. In addition to the boo-boo with the snow plow this winter (when multiple rows got knocked over) I feel this method is a whole lot safer when grandchildren and neighbor children coming visiting. I should take a comparison photo to show how the stacks have seasoned (shrunk) in just the last month...

Shari
 
The only reason I criss cross the end of the stacks is to keep the stacksends vertical. Stability. The goal has nothing to do with dryness.

In fact, I am going to start stacking with t-bar posts on the end this year to eliminate the need for the criss cross. Stacking is the least fun part of the process and I want it to be as quick as possible.

Oh and I don't go much past four feet tall on my stacks to give good stability.
 
Shari said:
I used to 'free stack' like the OP mentioned but nicking a stack with the edge of our snow plow blade this winter made me re-think how I was stacking. I switched to this method and I love it - stacks go up real fast and they are seasoning very well:

P1010028.jpg


Shari
Great minds think alike. That is exactally what I do.
 
Highbeam said:
The only reason I criss cross the end of the stacks is to keep the stacksends vertical. Stability. The goal has nothing to do with dryness.

In fact, I am going to start stacking with t-bar posts on the end this year to eliminate the need for the criss cross. Stacking is the least fun part of the process and I want it to be as quick as possible.

Oh and I don't go much past four feet tall on my stacks to give good stability.

I agree with Highbeam except for the t-posts. And I don't think using t-posts will speed the process as stacking the ends don't take much more time than the rest. Many times I also make kindling and stack that in the ends.

My stacks are also 4' tall. Any taller any that will cause problems.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.