wood stove for the garage

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

Boon

New Member
Hearth Supporter
well I had a old school box style stove and doing a remod. this stove the sides where all cracked, so it went to the curb.

I insulated and drywalled the garage

Added dura rock up the wall the behind the stove and pipe area

now I need to cover the dura rock with something more aesthetic, was kicking around the idea of using aluminium diamond plate.

any body do this before? too much heat transfer? need to build a base to put the new stove on and need a stove yet also

garage is 24x24
 
Check local codes/authority having jurisdiction first. Some places do lot allow a garage install. Lots of things like gas jugs are stored in garages, and gas fumes ignite rather easily.
 
I have had the other wood stove in the garage for the last 5 years, works great. Gas and propane not stored in there and yet to have any negitive issues. Just time for a upgrade, I also added a outlet for a blower on the new to me unit
 
Still an issue with codes and insurance companies. If a unit has any type of open flame, I believe it has to be a min. of 4ft off floor. I have a 1800 sq ft shop, code here says heating appliances have to be hung from ceiling.
 
So you have a wood stove in your garage. Do you store gasoline in your garage? Do you store other flammables/explosives in the garage? Do you park cars in the garage? These are pertinent questions I do believe, as educated folk on this site will hesitate to assist you in your stove installation if it is perceived that you may be doing something against code.

So, the short answer to your question from me would be.....

First, contact you local legislative body and ask if it is legal to have a solid fuel burning appliance in your garage.

Second, contact your insurance agency to confirm they are in agreement with the wisdom of having a wood burning appliance in your garage.

If both these entities are ok with the installation then....

Third, install the stove according to the stove manufacturer's installation manual, paying heed to all clearances as indicated.
 
Lots of ifs without knowing the specific stove make and model. The metal plate doesn't make much difference, nor does the durock unless it is part of an NFPA wallshield. The metal can be a wall shield too with the correct, ventilated air space behind it. It's the stove's required clearances to combustibles that needs to be honored.

"I also added a outlet for a blower on the new to me unit " - what does this mean?

As noted, there are some important caveats to having a woodstove in garage, especially if it is attached to the house. Generally this is against code and an insurance red flag. I would be especially concerned if the garage is still used for cars, aka mobile gas cans.
 
BeGreen said:
Lots of ifs without knowing the specific stove make and model. The metal plate doesn't make much difference, nor does the durock unless it is part of an NFPA wallshield. The metal can be a wall shield too with the correct, ventilated air space behind it. It's the stove's required clearances to combustibles that needs to be honored.

"I also added a outlet for a blower on the new to me unit " - what does this mean?

As noted, there are some important caveats to having a woodstove in garage, especially if it is attached to the house. Generally this is against code and an insurance red flag. I would be especially concerned if the garage is still used for cars, aka mobile gas cans.

Garage is detached, more of a workshop than anything else.

No cars and or gas would be in it during burn times

Thanks that's what people of advised me of spacing the wall shield, although I thought it would look cool. Need to look at other hearth material I guess

Added a outlet low in the wall off to the side thinking I would get a wood stove with a blower built in it. My old box stove produced a lot of heat but, I would use a fan to move the air. Old stove is toast so looking for a new one. Haved used the old stove for years and years with no issues, just time to upgrade quality

Thanks for addressing my questions
 
Once you have the replacement stove picked out we may be able to help more. If it has no UL tag with clearances on back and no documentation stating clearances, then it will need to stay 36" from combustibles. If this looks like the case, you might want to mount the diamondplate on spacer strips to create a 1" airspace behind it. It will need to be open at the top and at the bottom it needs to be 1" off the floor. You can use doubled up, long 3" strips of durock to create the spacer strips. This will reduce the rear clearance to 12".
 
BeGreen said:
Once you have the replacement stove picked out we may be able to help more. If it has no UL tag with clearances on back and no documentation stating clearances, then it will need to stay 36" from combustibles. If this looks like the case, you might want to mount the diamondplate on spacer strips to create a 1" airspace behind it. It will need to be open at the top and at the bottom it needs to be 1" off the floor. You can use doubled up, long 3" strips of durock to create the spacer strips. This will reduce the rear clearance to 12".


Oh no, I want a good quality unit for sure. Good idea on the diamond plate spacing, might change up to granite tiles instead? Was looking at river rock but the price has me a little gun shy.

Want a smaller wood stove, would like a window in it and a blower and a ash tray and a............quality safe unit. That said I have yet to pick out a replacement stove.





And I thank you for your help
 
There are several nice stoves out there. I wouldn't obsess over an ash pan. They are over-rated IMO. If you get a modern stove, then the clearances might be a lot lower and a wall shield unnecessary. What make/model was the old style box stove?
 
BeGreen said:
There are several nice stoves out there. I wouldn't obsess over an ash pan. They are over-rated IMO. If you get a modern stove, then the clearances might be a lot lower and a wall shield unnecessary. What make/model was the old style box stove?

It was a Morso, had a squril on the side of it. Nice warm heat. Might have got overheated to crack the internal sides?
 
BeGreen said:
Lots of ifs without knowing the specific stove make and model. The metal plate doesn't make much difference, nor does the durock unless it is part of an NFPA wallshield. The metal can be a wall shield too with the correct, ventilated air space behind it. It's the stove's required clearances to combustibles that needs to be honored.

"I also added a outlet for a blower on the new to me unit " - what does this mean?

As noted, there are some important caveats to having a woodstove in garage, especially if it is attached to the house. Generally this is against code and an insurance red flag. I would be especially concerned if the garage is still used for cars, aka mobile gas cans.

And thanks again, googled it and read the article, great instite to what I would like to do. I think I should reverse enginer it as I have a wall, and a hole in the roof, that is triple wall, and measure what clearance I have and what stove would fit that criteria.
 
Boon said:
BeGreen said:
There are several nice stoves out there. I wouldn't obsess over an ash pan. They are over-rated IMO. If you get a modern stove, then the clearances might be a lot lower and a wall shield unnecessary. What make/model was the old style box stove?

It was a Morso, had a squril on the side of it. Nice warm heat. Might have got overheated to crack the internal sides?

That is probably a Morso 2B. The interior burn plates are sacrificial. They will eventually deteriorate, but as long as the exterior body of the stove is in good shape, the stove is not shot. You can replace the interior burn plates and baffle and the stove will operate like new again. The burn plates are not cheap, but if you like the stove it can be rebuilt in an afternoon. The Jotul 602 is a very similar stove and a bit more common used.

As for installing another stove, rather than looking for a specific fit, you may be able to make an offset out of a pair of 45 elbows. We had to do that when we changed stoves the last time. One stove on the market that might work is the Englander VL-17.
http://www.overstockstoves.com/50tvl17--epa-certified-noncatalytic-wood-stove--1250171200.html
 
I think its hilarious that you think the government i going to somehow keep his shop from burning down by saying he cant have a wood stove.

From what you guys say it sounds like its illegal to operate a set of oxy/acc torches, or propane torch, or plasma cutter, or welder in a garage. Why dont we get super safe and take out the lightbulbs while we are at it?

What about blacksmiths, they have gas or coal fire forges in their garages and work shops?
 
An attached garage is entirely different than a separate workshop. Every winter fire depts. are dealing with jerry-rigged stoves in garages that have burned the house down. In a month or so, the reports will start rolling in. Codes have been developed to protect lives, especially in urban areas where one house may catch another dwelling on fire. There are lots of things one can do, but that doesn't mean we should recommend installations where they violate local code or one's insurance policy. We're here to help. But doing so means promoting a safe installation. We like folks to come back and report successes not tragedies.
 
nojo said:
From what you guys say it sounds like its illegal to operate a set of oxy/acc torches, or propane torch, or plasma cutter, or welder in a garage. Why dont we get super safe and take out the lightbulbs while we are at it?

I see your point.... and kinda brings me back to the whole 'registers allowing air circulation between floors' debate. I often wonder how a 12" hole between floors would be so bad but the 15 foot opening between floors (upstairs opens to greatroom) or stairway is ok. I still havent been able to confirm this is even an issue, everyone here has never heard of such a code, but apparently for other areas it is.
 
Building codes are generally there to protect the public, insurance rules are there to the protect insurance companies and create loopholes in your coverage. Definitely worth checking.
I'm pretty sure the biggest reason building codes in some areas don't allow wood stoves in attached garages is because people often use, and store, flammables in garages, and of course there is a danger with flammable gases and open flames in a wood stove, especially when those flames are so close to the ground where heavy flammable gasses tend to lie. If a fire starts in the attached garage the house is also involved, if the house is involved lives are usually at stake.
Now you might say I will never use, or store, flammables in the garage with the wood stove, and quite possibly you have enough common sense that you never will. BUT you might sell the house one day, and usually things like installed wood stoves sell with the house. Now the next family who buys the house might be clueless as to just how dangerous it would be to store gas or propane in the same area as a wood stove, and that's where the problems start. Building codes often try to cover these scenarios.

BeGreen, I can't see why there would be any more jerry-rigged stoves in garages than in houses. But perhaps there are???
 
nojo said:
I think its hilarious that you think the government i going to somehow keep his shop from burning down by saying he cant have a wood stove.

From what you guys say it sounds like its illegal to operate a set of oxy/acc torches, or propane torch, or plasma cutter, or welder in a garage. Why dont we get super safe and take out the lightbulbs while we are at it?

What about blacksmiths, they have gas or coal fire forges in their garages and work shops?

My point had nothing to do with this statement at all. The protection afforded by all parties involved comes if/when a garage burns down will it be covered by insurance? If a guy wants to do a risk analysis, and determines he doesn't care if his insurance company covers any potential loss, then I say have at it :)
 
BeGreen said:
Boon said:
BeGreen said:
There are several nice stoves out there. I wouldn't obsess over an ash pan. They are over-rated IMO. If you get a modern stove, then the clearances might be a lot lower and a wall shield unnecessary. What make/model was the old style box stove?

It was a Morso, had a squril on the side of it. Nice warm heat. Might have got overheated to crack the internal sides?

That is probably a Morso 2B. The interior burn plates are sacrificial. They will eventually deteriorate, but as long as the exterior body of the stove is in good shape, the stove is not shot. You can replace the interior burn plates and baffle and the stove will operate like new again. The burn plates are not cheap, but if you like the stove it can be rebuilt in an afternoon. The Jotul 602 is a very similar stove and a bit more common used.

As for installing another stove, rather than looking for a specific fit, you may be able to make an offset out of a pair of 45 elbows. We had to do that when we changed stoves the last time. One stove on the market that might work is the Englander VL-17.
http://www.overstockstoves.com/50tvl17--epa-certified-noncatalytic-wood-stove--1250171200.html

Did not know you could rebuild that stove, where would I get parts? What needs to be done?

going to look at the other units also
 
ansehnlich1 said:
nojo said:
I think its hilarious that you think the government i going to somehow keep his shop from burning down by saying he cant have a wood stove.

From what you guys say it sounds like its illegal to operate a set of oxy/acc torches, or propane torch, or plasma cutter, or welder in a garage. Why dont we get super safe and take out the lightbulbs while we are at it?

What about blacksmiths, they have gas or coal fire forges in their garages and work shops?

My point had nothing to do with this statement at all. The protection afforded by all parties involved comes if/when a garage burns down will it be covered by insurance? If a guy wants to do a risk analysis, and determines he doesn't care if his insurance company covers any potential loss, then I say have at it :)

During the heating season, on almost any day you can search for garage fires and will find a bunch of them. This is not an uncommon problem. Often garage installations are cobbled in with serious clearances violations. With the stove being out of sight and mind for long periods, it is only a matter of time before something goes wrong.

http://www.sctimes.com/article/20101112/NEWS01/111120031/1009/Fire-damages-garage-in-Foley
http://www.riverfallsjournal.com/event/article/id/96760/
http://www.centredaily.com/2010/11/11/2332855/blaze-rips-through-car-repair.html

Not known if this was woodstove, but the threat to neighboring homes was real.
http://www.calgaryherald.com/sports...thwest+Calgary+subdivision/3730186/story.html
 
Boon said:
BeGreen said:
Boon said:
BeGreen said:
There are several nice stoves out there. I wouldn't obsess over an ash pan. They are over-rated IMO. If you get a modern stove, then the clearances might be a lot lower and a wall shield unnecessary. What make/model was the old style box stove?

It was a Morso, had a squril on the side of it. Nice warm heat. Might have got overheated to crack the internal sides?

That is probably a Morso 2B. The interior burn plates are sacrificial. They will eventually deteriorate, but as long as the exterior body of the stove is in good shape, the stove is not shot. You can replace the interior burn plates and baffle and the stove will operate like new again. The burn plates are not cheap, but if you like the stove it can be rebuilt in an afternoon. The Jotul 602 is a very similar stove and a bit more common used.

As for installing another stove, rather than looking for a specific fit, you may be able to make an offset out of a pair of 45 elbows. We had to do that when we changed stoves the last time. One stove on the market that might work is the Englander VL-17.
http://www.overstockstoves.com/50tvl17--epa-certified-noncatalytic-wood-stove--1250171200.html

Did not know you could rebuild that stove, where would I get parts? What needs to be done?

going to look at the other units also

Woodmans still sells parts for these stoves.
http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/68/catalogs/Wood-and-Coal-Stove-Manufacturers-Cross-Reference.html
 
Status
Not open for further replies.