xmas comes early this year

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precaud

precaud

Minister of Fire
Jan 20, 2006
2,307
Sunny New Mexico
www.linearz.com
Looky what santa brought yesterday... well, truth be told, the lazy fart made me pick it up at the freight terminal! Best of all, he sent a couple friends over just in time to unload it! So all is forgiven...

New stoves always come packed on wood pallets with 2x4 framing... why don't manufacturers give breakin fire instructions that use that wood? Not many things you buy are capable of eating their own packing. :)
 

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3 stoves? Are you going to burn them all, or haven't you found the right one yet?
 
Will be selling the F602. The Morso is too good to get rid of.
 
Corie, she's just a year old with 2 months of burn time (no cracks). But methinks you can pick up one for less out your way... from what I've seen, they seem to be advertised for less the further east you go.
 
Ok, ok, here it is installed. By the time it was light enough in here to photograph, the flames had died. So get out your crayons and you can draw them in. :)
 

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precaud said:
Ok, ok, here it is installed. By the time it was light enough in here to photograph, the flames had died. So get out your crayons and you can draw them in. :)
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Great timing. Looks warm already.
 
Corie said:
Initial impressions?
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There's too much blue in the picture... I'll correct that after work.

Seriously, first impressions are favorable, but we have a minor technical problem to straighten out, then will post a thorough review.
 
Speaking of which, why can't they take pictures of the actual stoves in real installations with REAL fires going?

Por ejemplo, the entire hearthstone catalogue is the same damn fire photoshopped into each stove.+
 
BeGreen said:
Great timing. Looks warm already.
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Boy you can say that again. The night it was installed, the low here was +5. It wasn't the best of timing to be breaking in a new stove... smokey, but it was warm...
 
HI,

It looks great.

One questions though? Are those clearances OK? The stove looks very close to the wall and I cannot see if that 'stone' is actually real stone or a fake glued on stone. Either way, aren't they still considered combustible walls. I heard or read that stone over wood frame is still considered combustible. I hope Elk can chime in here.

Thanks

carpniels
 
Corie said:
Speaking of which, why can't they take pictures of the actual stoves in real installations with REAL fires going?
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Live flames are very bright and present a real challenge for cameras to capture, especially digital ones which don't have the dynamic range capability of analog film. A black stove with a live fire is REALLY hard to get a good photo of.
 
carpniels said:
One questions though? Are those clearances OK? The stove looks very close to the wall and I cannot see if that 'stone' is actually real stone or a fake glued on stone.
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It's real brick, I worked my tail off all summer building that thing.
The Quad 2100 is jacketed on both sides and rear, allowing very close clearances.
I didn't know that in advance.
It definitely changes the way it heats.

Either way, aren't they still considered combustible walls. I heard or read that stone over wood frame is still considered combustible.
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The house walls are masonry, the closest wood is the floor and ceiling framing.
 
Actually, good cameras with CMOS sensors exceeded the gamut of film several years ago. But anytime there is a high key area (white) next to a very low key area (black) it is a challenge to photograph. Usually the best way is to meter for the highlights, in this case the stove glass with fire raging, then fill in the shadows with additional lighting to lower the range to within the camera's ability to capture it. For the better point and shoot digitals a good method is to take a close up of the fire and note what the exposure is (say 1/80th sec @ f5.6), then move back from the stove at a slight angle until the whole stove is framed nicely. Set the camera to manual and dial in the settings you got earlier, and turn on the flash. Snap several shots at bracketed settings like 1/80th @ f4.5 and then 1/80th @ f8 and select the best.

Also note that if you get a good shot but the shadow details are blocking up and hard to see, the information is still likely there. Bring them into Photoshop and use the Image -> adjustments -> Shadow/Highlight option to restore the shadow detail. I other programs and older versions of Photoshop, use the Image -> Adjustments -> Levels option and try gently moving the center (gamma) control to the left to see if that helps.
 
BeGreen said:
Actually, good cameras with CMOS sensors exceeded the gamut of film several years ago.
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Are you referring to the ones that are liquid-cooled?

Also note that if you get a good shot but the shadow details are blocking up and hard to see, the information is still likely there. Bring them into Photoshop and use the Image -> adjustments -> Shadow/Highlight option to restore the shadow detail. I other programs and older versions of Photoshop, use the Image -> Adjustments -> Levels option and try gently moving the center (gamma) control to the left to see if that helps.
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Yes, I did significant editing on the shot posted to bring the low level detail out of the shadows...
 
No liquid cooling, the Canon SLRs are all CMOS. I have seen some remarkable results from them.
 
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