Yet another chain question.

What is the significance of the pitch? .325 is measuring what

Yep yep, wait til you have to!

See pitch and gauge definitions here: http://www.stihllibrary.com/pdfs/SawChainSelection.pdf

Need a PHD....lol Also keep in mind the cutter on a .325 is smaller than say a 3/8. Then throw in low profile. Can give you a headache after awhile.

***banging head on desk**** ok does the pitch relate to different clutch and bar assemblies?

Yeah, as my teachers always said, just look at the pictures and ignore everything else.

This link has a little less clutter: http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/identify.html

The drive sprocket on your saw has a pitch, the sprocket in the tip of you bar has a pitch, and chains have pitch. ALL THREE MUST MATCH. (Exception: bars without tip sprockets (solid nose) don't have a pitch.)

Your bar has a GAUGE (width of groove) and your chain has a GAUGE. BOTH OF THOSE MUST MATCH. (Note that the drive sprocket on your saw is gauge independent; that is, the drive sprocket can accommodate different gauges.)

Yes!

When buying a new chain, these THREE criteria must be met:

Pitch
Gauge
Number of drive links (DL)

(fixed it)

lol, there you go throwing in #4 stihl large mount. Only matter if your buying a bar.

I have been very happy with Stihl RMC full chisel chain on my 029. Mine is a 20" bar so you should have even better results with your 18". Here's a picture of the box and another to give you an idea of what the chain looks like. This is not "safety" chain so you do have a higher risk of kick back when using it.
Also look around this site. I think it will answer most of your questions. I learned most of what I know reading here a few years ago. http://www.madsens1.com/muu_barchain.htm
When you do buy, I recommend Stihl chain.

The picture of the chain sucks. Sorry. I will look for a better one.

Here's some pictures.
http://www.treecaretrainingservices.co.uk/Chainsawcutterprofiles.htm

Roger that I'm understanding so far any way........

Oops, having a brain cramp today. LOL!

Fixed it.

NOW THAT'S AN AWESOME LINK! Thank-you very much very informational!

Yea me too, was trying to keep it simple but always goes this way! :lol: Should we now throw in square chisel? lol

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That's yellow label semi-chisel chain, not full chisel. RSC chain is full chisel. Been meaning to pick up a couple RMC loops for my 034.

Green label chain is "low-kickback", "homeowner", or "safety chain".
Yellow label chain is often called "aggressive" chain.

Stihl Micro is Semi-Chisel (Rounded Cutters)
Stihl Super is Full-Chisel (Sharp Pointed Cutters)
Stihl Picco is equivilant to "Low-Pro" or Low-Profile chain from other brands.

Common chain pitches: 1/4", 3/8 Low-Pro, .325, 3/8", .404"

Chain pitch is the distance between any three consective rivets divided by two.
Chain gauge is the thickness of the drive links and sometimes the tie-straps/cutters.
Chain length is the number of drive links in the chain loop.

Full Skip means the chain has half the usual number of cutters compared to a normal full-comp chain.
Half Skip means the chain has 2/3 the usual number of cutters compared to a normal full-comp chain.
Full Comp means the chain has all of it's cutters and is what typically is on any given saw that isn't on a logging truck or in Jay's shop.

I highly recomend browsing Stihl's library of chain info and watching their videos for how-to's on chain ID and sharpening. Lots of great info that applies to far more than just their product. The more you learn about chain the more you'll like theirs tho so watch out! ;-)

http://stihldealer.net/videolibrary/OnePlayer.aspx?v=22&vt=22&vb=0&id=22 - The chainsaw instructional video.
http://www.stihlusa.com/information/STIHL-Sharp-Advice-Saw-Chain-Guide-Bars.pdf

Oops! I guess I should pay more attention to what I buy. :red: It still cuts very nicely and the 029 seems happy with it.

Downed wood the simi is the fast chain! I think you did that on propose. :cheese:

Yeah, yeah, right. That's what I meant to do. :cheese: