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Z42 Ordered, Chimney Questions, Install Questions

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by thanley, Jan 10, 2012.

  1. thanley

    thanley New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2011
    Messages:
    7
    Loc:
    Central Indiana
    Greeting all

    I just ordered a Kozyheat Z42 to replace my old Heatilator ZC from 1989. To be able to swing it cost wise I had to commit to doing the install myself.

    Got the old unit torn out yesterday and the new Z42 will be here in two weeks. Finally got to see inside the chase and see what I’m working with. Besides having to widen the rough opening by an inch I didn’t have many concerns about what else I was getting into.
    The chase is a bit shallower than I expected; and I need to add about three inches of framing for the Z42 to sit properly. My current thought pattern is to frame it out with wood and then covering in brick to add a bit of texture to the wall.
    I’ve tackled a lot of projects but this is farther outside my comfort area than I am used too.

    So here are my questions:
    1. Once I frame this out, I plan on covering the center section of the wall with thin brick (going for an urban/old Chicago look). I plan on having the brick section be floor to ceiling 72 inches wide and 96 inches tall. I have never worked with brick before and from my current plans am going to use Durock on top of the current drywall in that same floor to ceiling size. The extra depth isn’t as much of a concern as we will be installing built in bookshelves on either side of the fireplace once this portion of the wall is completed.
    a. Am I okay with 1/2 inch Durock on top of drywall or can I go thinner?
    b. With so many thin brick options out there, what are the best brands to look at in terms of ease of use? Currently looking at the Owenboro line
    c. I can’t wrap my mind around how the fireplace will sit flush with the bricks; most likely something I will understand when I see the unit but struggling right now.
    2. I am hiring out the chimney install just on the labor; am currently in the process of getting the chimney pipe and supplies myself
    a. With the chimney going in a wood chase; I am buying a variety of sizes/parts for the 6 inch Supervent setup and will return the overbought supplies after install.
    i. I’ve ordered 2 firestops, 10 pieces of 3 foot chimney, 1 piece of 2 foot, and 1 piece of 1 foot, 1 chimney cap, a bunch of locking bands to secure the pieces, 1 base plate for the unit and chimney, 1 flashing piece for the chase.
    1. My further question is…what am I missing? It’s going in a chimney chase with a flat top. Do I need wall supports, rafter radiation shield, or ceiling support? It’s a straight shot up without any bends.
    3. It’s a 2 story house with an attic, I understand that I need 2 firestops within the chase; but the only other unknown I have is access to the second floor chase space and attic. I can stand up in the current chase hole and see to the first firestop; but how does the chimney sweep access the space in the chase of the second floor and then the attic portion between the firestops? Flying blind on this part and part of the reason I have had “hire someone†in my mind the whole time so far.
    What else am I not thinking about?

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  2. basswidow

    basswidow Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2008
    Messages:
    1,313
    Loc:
    Milton GA
    Congrats, you'll love this unit.

    As for the bricks & dura rock, I can't help you much on that. We butted fire rated drywall right up to the Z42 and wood framing. Then we installed a stone like tile over the drywall using tile adhesive and grouted. No issues. We put a grout line right to the edge of the Z42. I think it looks great.

    I had a professional install my Z42 and chimney. It's 3 stories. They used the existing fire stops between the first and second floors and second floor and attic. In the attic - the chase is open to the flat top. The entire chiminey weight is supported on the unit itself. There are no braces. The fire stops provide bracing somewhat. As long as your clearances are good, my fire stops are floor plywood with circle holes cut in and the metal collar that creates the necessary set back required for the chimney system. I have no T's or clean outs. Straight up shot from the stove to the roof.

    There are no access points in my system in between the first and second floors. Just in the attic. I've had a sweep out twice, he doesn't require access into these voids. To gain access to those area's - I'd have to break thru the interior wall or outside thru the siding and sheathing. It's empty space. Mine is insulated with unfaced insulation along the outside wall as per code.

    When they installed the chimney, I had a good portion of the wall off above the unit. They put the pieces together in the attic and slid them down the chase /fire stops to the top of the unit. Once they reached the unit, they went up to above the roof line.

    Hope that helps.
  3. Arc_Dad

    Arc_Dad Member

    Joined:
    May 10, 2009
    Messages:
    107
    Loc:
    Maine
    I installed my Z42 myself, but did have help from friends. Once you get over the emotions associated with breaking into your ceilings and roof the "nuts and bolts" of the construction are not difficult. I used Selkirk chimney and Selkirk required supports for a certain footage of chimney, so check documentation w/ chimney manufacturer.

    Have you considered the R-value of the hearth underneath and in front of the Z42? You can not set it directly on brick and only brick it's going to take ALOT of brick to reach the required R-value. My fireplace surround is 1.5" thick granite so I just framed unit in and kept framing back 1.5" from fireplace front.

    My local dealer was also a HUGE help and proably put in a few hours of help to me while I stood in their showroom asking questions. The technical support at Kozy Heat also helped me.
  4. WiscoWoodman

    WiscoWoodman Member

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2012
    Messages:
    26
    Loc:
    SW Wisconsin
    I am trying to figure out a way to install a ZC fireplace on a budget as well . Kozyheat Z42 is a contender. Also considering an RSF Opel 2 or 3. Like you, I am considering working on the Kozy Z42 install myself to make budget work. Thus, very interested in this thread.

    Without coming out to measure yet, the dealer quoted me at roughly $6000 for total install of the Z42 Kozy, which is too much. Of the $6000ish, roughly $2000 was solely for the chimney materials (not labor) to go up 2 stories plus attic. Ouch.

    What are you doing for your chimney? What exactly did you order, was it from the dealer, and at what cost of materials?
  5. olsonbri

    olsonbri New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Messages:
    56
    Loc:
    Stillwater, OK
    Our final bill for the Z42CD was $2800 installed from a dealer 60 miles away last May. It included most of the Class A pipe (20ft if I recall correctly) but we had to buy an extra couple of sticks to meet the distance up this house. I think the dealer quoted $2600 for the unit (included pipe & blowers, no outside air kit), and then another $200 for installation. I was pleasantly surprised at the install cost and when they put it in, as I suspected, it took 2 guys a half a day to pull our old 8" pipe, feed the new pipe up the chimney & slide the unit in the hole.

    We really love the performance of the Z42! --Bri
  6. WiscoWoodman

    WiscoWoodman Member

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2012
    Messages:
    26
    Loc:
    SW Wisconsin
    That is amazing. I don't expect to get it done that cheaply, but for Kozy Z42 install they quoted me $5275 for unit, pipe, and labor + $350 for them to remove old unit/chimney + $340 internal blower + $80 finish kit (does not include another $200 if I want outside air). That = $6,045 ... more than TWICE your cost. Robbery.

    I am probably going to get the RSF Opel 3, which costs a little more but I suspect heats a little more square footage. And I will probably remove old unit/chimney myself to save $350.

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