Gloves

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I wear Wells Lamont Leather Work Gloves bought from costco. They are pretty rugged but the finger tips will eventually wear through. Once the fingers start to wear out I just wrap some duct tap around them. You get about double the life out of your gloves that way. Firewood is very abrasive.

The gloves are actually on sale right now at costco.com 6 pair for $24.99.
 
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I tried but gloves just get in the way and hang up on stuff. Feels more dangerous when splitting. So I just go without gloves and let your skin get tougher.

To be fair, we do firewood work in the summer after the mud dries out so not in the cold.
 
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It's too stifling hot and humid here to ever want to process wood in summer. Our average highs are only 85F, but those regular stretches of mid-90F's always seem to land on the weekends you're available for splitting, and our stupid-high Atlantic coastal humidity puts our regular heat index well into the 100F's. Even just an hour or three west, closer to bholler, is very substantially less humid and nicer.

I try to do all of my wood harvesting and splitting when the ground is frozen, but fresh snow isn't piled too high. Days with highs below 30F (meaning overnight lows below 10F) are ideal, as the sun never manages to thaw the dirt in the afternoon, keeping mud and turf damage to a minimum. That does mean wearing gloves, but usually a pair of nitrile surgeons type gloves (but in 4-6 mil thickness, like many mechanics wear) under a pair of cheap uninsulated cow hide gloves, keeps the hands warm enough while moving.

My bigger problem is toes, which tend to freeze in steel-toed logger's boots. I finally bought heated socks this winter, but too late in the season to really test them out. Keep my toes warm, and I'm happy to be outside in the cold, all day long.
 
It's too stifling hot and humid here to ever want to process wood in summer. Our average highs are only 85F, but those regular stretches of mid-90F's always seem to land on the weekends you're available for splitting, and our stupid-high Atlantic coastal humidity puts our regular heat index well into the 100F's. Even just an hour or three west, closer to bholler, is very substantially less humid and nicer.

I try to do all of my wood harvesting and splitting when the ground is frozen, but fresh snow isn't piled too high. Days with highs below 30F (meaning overnight lows below 10F) are ideal, as the sun never manages to thaw the dirt in the afternoon, keeping mud and turf damage to a minimum. That does mean wearing gloves, but usually a pair of nitrile surgeons type gloves (but in 4-6 mil thickness, like many mechanics wear) under a pair of cheap uninsulated cow hide gloves, keeps the hands warm enough while moving.

My bigger problem is toes, which tend to freeze in steel-toed logger's boots. I finally bought heated socks this winter, but too late in the season to really test them out. Keep my toes warm, and I'm happy to be outside in the cold, all day long.
Find yourself a pair of US Army Bunny Boots
Then cold feet will become a distant memory.
There are black ones and white ones. The white ones are a bit warmer than the black ones. If it drops below -20 C i wear my white ones. Been wearing them in the winter for over 40 years
 
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I wear Dutch army boots - have done so ever since I started with them on my motorcycle. Can step in streams too without getting wet.
It's 30 years and I'm still "working on" my first pair. I used to treat the surface with some fatty stuff for shoes (to keep the leather in tip top shape), but ever since I got cement powder on them (renovating campgrounds in the Smoky Mountains) the surface has gone downhill.
So I gave up on them and I bought a second pair 5 years ago, but they're still new in the box as apart from the water tightness the old ones are still going strong.

Frost, cold water, soggy mud, mountain hiking, firewooding - no cold feet for me.
1716399769754.png
 
For splitting with a maul i can't wear gloves. The grip is no good. If it's cold (high 20's or 30's) the yellow leather or maybe fake leather gloves from Harbor F. are ok and usually pretty cheap. If it's warm no gloves for moving/stacking. And if it's maybe 40's those orange rubber coated gloves previously posted are pretty good. i get a 5 or 10 pack i think and wear them for many things.

If it's Canada cold, well it never gets that cold here in NJ coast.
But in Utah my brother gave me some rubber fisherman gloves they use in Japan, fur lined inside. They are super warm even with your hands in ice water. But i think wood would rip them up more than those Japanese fish.

Something like these:

 
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I'm currently trying these cut and puncture resistant gloves for chopping and cutting wood, and so far they seem to be holding up well. They are only a little bit bulkier than unlined leather gloves.
I have used Costco work gloves (come in packs of three, leather palm, knitted back, velcro closure), and while they are good for general mechanical and yard work, one pair wore completely through loading a single cord of firewood.
The Rapicca welding gloves mentioned earlier didn't last long for me either. For reloading the stove I got different ones ('Innostage' brand, don't remember where from).
 
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I can’t use a maul /sledge/hammer in leather gloves either. I use the nitrile dipped gloves. Moving split firewood is leather glove time, but the nitrile ones work for that too.
 
Find yourself a pair of US Army Bunny Boots

I wear Dutch army boots - have done so ever since I started with them on my motorcycle.
How are either for chainsaw protection? Do either even have steel toes? When I'm rolling around piles of 15 ft logs in a trailer, those steel toes have saved me more than once.

It's also gotten to the point where I naturally use that steel toe as a wheel chock in any quick situation, muscle memory I may regret having developed, if I ever switch to boots without steel toes. But I think it's those steel toes that make my toes go cold in otherwise-warm Thinsulate loggers.
 
How are either for chainsaw protection? Do either even have steel toes? When I'm rolling around piles of 15 ft logs in a trailer, those steel toes have saved me more than once.

It's also gotten to the point where I naturally use that steel toe as a wheel chock in any quick situation, muscle memory I may regret having developed, if I ever switch to boots without steel toes.

Don't do that! If the steel toe collapses...
 
Don't do that! If the steel toe collapses...
Yeah, but it's usually those situations where it's either chance the toe or lose the ankle.

Picking logs out of a trailer is the world's most dangerous game of pick up sticks.

Gloves
 
Mine don't have steel toes (but are solid as a rock; not your lig solid but enough for a 3 ft dia 18" long round to fall on my toes with problems.
I don't want to amputate my toes with steel.
 
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How are either for chainsaw protection? Do either even have steel toes? When I'm rolling around piles of 15 ft logs in a trailer, those steel toes have saved me more than once.

It's also gotten to the point where I naturally use that steel toe as a wheel chock in any quick situation, muscle memory I may regret having developed, if I ever switch to boots without steel toes. But I think it's those steel toes that make my toes go cold in otherwise-warm Thinsulate loggers.
You can find black ones that had steel toes.
I have crushed my right big toe a couple times, but not while wearing Bunny Boots.
The Bunny boots are big and thick and provide a bit of protection.But not like a steel toe boot. I have never had an issue hurting a toe while wearing them. But maybe i am cautious seeing i have had my toe crushed a couple times.
But for me the warm feet were worth the risk over the years.There was nothing available when i started wearing them that would keep my feet warm, especially with the injured toe, except Native made Mucklucks which have absolutely no toe protection. And as soon as they get wet they would get cold.
Bunny boots you can fill with water in the winter, just dump it out and wring out your sock and your feet stay warm.
 
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Oh, and chainsaw protection: I don't know. I presume anything not metal or fibrous (think chaps) is toast.

I never hit the boots with the saw, but if I do, I think it's going thru.
 
If the heated socks don't do the trick next summer, I'm going to have to check out some of these options. I'm otherwise totally happy with my present steel toe loggers, for year-round use, so not anxious to abandon them.

I hear people mention crushing steel toes, but other than those working heavy equipment, I find this about as valid as those who claim wearing seatbelts is more dangerous than not. Overall, I'd argue they have to be safer than without, for what I'm doing.
 
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Mine don't have steel toes (but are solid as a rock; not your log solid but enough for a 3 ft dia 18" long wet oak round to fall on my toes without problems.
I don't want to amputate my toes with steel.
edited to correct typos
 
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I thought steel toe cut of was a myth. So i looked it up and looks like yes it is a Myth.

"No, steel toe boots are designed to withstand heavy impact and won't cut off your toes. The myth that steel toe boots can cut off your toes comes from the idea that the steel will curl in if something heavy enough falls on the toe. However, steel toe boots can withstand up to 2,500 pounds of compression, which is over one metric ton."

"The implications of the myth were if something heavy enough fell on your steel toe boot, the steel could curl in and cut off your toes. Ouch... But guess what? This myth was BUSTED. Steel toe boots can withstand a tremendous amount of weight, so don't worry—there's virtually no risk of having your toes chopped off."
 
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Looks like you can even shoot yourself in the foot and be ok. Depending on what you shoot it with of course.

 
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But obviously don't use them beyond their specs.
I've been buying and wearing steel-toed boots for more than 40 years. But I cannot remember ever receiving a spec sheet with them, which detailed how much weight or pressure the toe cap can withstand.

I think anyone worried about cutting off their toes due to steel-toed boots is probably spending too much time at the keyboard, fretting over theoretical situations that will never happen to any normal user in real life, and too little time actually out working in them. I've had some pretty heavy things (2000 lb. logs?) fall or roll onto mine, with no ill-effect.

Maybe a steel-tracked vehicle (M1 Abrahms?) on asphalt might do the job, but I don't encounter those while working firewood.
 
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Indeed, I had taken those stories for granted - and missed the myth busters episode as well.
I stand corrected and learned something.
Thanks!
 
I've been buying and wearing steel-toed boots for more than 40 years. But I cannot remember ever receiving a spec sheet with them, which detailed how much weight or pressure the toe cap can withstand.

I think anyone worried about cutting off their toes due to steel-toed boots is probably spending too much time at the keyboard, fretting over theoretical situations that will never happen to any normal user in real life, and too little time actually out working in them. I've had some pretty heavy things (2000 lb. logs?) fall or roll onto mine, with no ill-effect.

Maybe a steel-tracked vehicle (M1 Abrahms?) on asphalt might do the job, but I don't encounter those while working firewood.
The specs are not that hard to find: https://workboots.com/tradecraft/astm-osha-and-ansi-a-complete-guide-to-safety-footwear

Compression Protection​

Compression Protection Levels (C)
LabelDescription
ASTM F2413 C/75Protects against compressions up to 2,500 pounds
ASTM F2413 C/50Protects against compressions up to 1,750 pounds
ASTM F2413 C/30Protects against compressions up to 1,000 pound

So don't put something heavier than a ton on a single toe cap, or 2 1/2 tons on two, and you are good.
 
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