2 blink status on 2004 Harman Aceentra insert with new control board

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

mrbgrant

Member
Jan 25, 2018
25
massachusetts
Sorry to bother the team, I need a little more help with my 2004 Harman Accentra Insert. I had completed the rebuild, all Electrical components are new, and all gaskets are new except for the door. It is not installed I am trying to do a test start prior to final install (this cold be my issue). I am getting a 2 blink status error. I have checked the vacuum switch and it seems to be working fine, both components off the vacuum switch are working fine.

I was wondering if anyone had any ideas, I see that there have been others that have this problem, any input would be helpful.

Thanks
Grant
 
This used to be for the micro-switch on the pusher arm (at least on the P Series stoves); if the arm doesn't fully close, so the switch can tell a full close has happened for a 30 minute period the stove will go into the 2 blink status & shut down. The newer stoves don't have this feature as there is no micro-switch on the later versions. If you have a micro switch, check to see if it is bad, or you can just by-pass it to test.
 
 
I just re-read your original post, do you mean there is no door on the stove right now or just no gasket on the door right now; you won't have vacuum if there is no door.
 
I just re-read your original post, do you mean there is no door on the stove right now or just no gasket on the door right now; you won't have vacuum if there is no door.

Thank you all for the help, I had replaced all stove gaskets, but the door gasket was in great shape, so I left it in....and the door is on the stove...I am testing the stove outside prior to installing it, so the outside air kit and chimeny are not hooked up.

Thanks again
 
Hold your hand over the air inlet to see if it trips switch. Or jump switch temporarily.
 
I did jump the switch as you requested and I did pinch the tube to simulate activation. but nothing has worked.

BUT...the thing that I noticed is that the 2 blink status happens almost immediately upon start up....So when I turn the knob to "stove temp." the stove immediately starts and the exhaust fan comes on for about 1 to 2 seconds. Then the stove shuts down for a few seconds then starts back up with the 2 blink status. So it seems to me that it runs a quick diagnostic for that 1 to 2 seconds and i am stuck with the 2 blink status. In theory jumping the vacuum switch has always worked on my other stoves.....Any thoughts would be appreciated. i will conduct the vacuum test next week. i am waiting for a special gauge to come in...but i am not sure that vacuum is the problem. Also the stove is spotless, when rebuilding it i took the time to clean all areas.

Thanks again for the input.
 
Pinching tube? If I'm understanding you correctly you are pinching the tube on the vac switch? What rickwai is talking about is the air intake for the stove OAK. Does your stove have the weighted pusher arm assembly with the micro switch or is it the new style without the weights? See the arrow in the pic for the micros switch location.
 

Attachments

  • harman P61 pusher arm_LI (2) mark-up.jpg
    harman P61 pusher arm_LI (2) mark-up.jpg
    66.7 KB · Views: 147
Sorry I let this die on the vine, I have been out of town and completely frustrated with this project.

I wanted to thank everyone for their help and provide an update just in case it happened to someone in the future. In the end I believe that it is 1 of 2 things. First it could be a a bad control board, which is brand new, or (second) the platinum board is just not compatible with my stove. My stove is a 2004 Harman Accentra in the 2000 serial number range.

i had ordered the parts to repair my old control board, a new transformer and a Metal Oxide Varistor (MOV), soldered them in today and the stove fired right up.

Thanks again for all the help.
 
Was the board you bought a Harman OEM board? What is the part number of the board you bought?
 
The control board that I had purchased is the Platinum board the number on the board is 3-20-05886, my dip switches are 00100100, the #5 dipswitch is off because it is a black esp probe.

When I use the board, the stove will function for about 1 to 2 seconds, you can hear the exhaust fan come on. Then the stove will stop for a few seconds and finally come back on with a 2 blink status. This was happening when i was testing the stove not hooked up to the chimney (i do not think it matters). All the gaskets are new. When i used the old control board, the stove fired right up without the chimney hooked up.
 
I just re-read your original post, do you mean there is no door on the stove right now or just no gasket on the door right now; you won't have vacuum if there is no door.
Pinching tube? If I'm understanding you correctly you are pinching the tube on the vac switch? What rickwai is talking about is the air intake for the stove OAK. Does your stove have the weighted pusher arm assembly with the micro switch or is it the new style without the weights? See the arrow in the pic for the micros switch location.

Sorry Nitro-fish for late reply- i was out of town, i do not have a weighted pusher arm with a micro switch. But is i did hold my finger over the inlet on the vacuum switch and the new board still gave the 2 blink status. Note that the vacuum switch is brand new (I also get the 2 blink status with the new and old vacuum switch installed)

with the old board installed, the vacuum switch is working fine. When i was testing the ignitor i opened the door and the ignitor and feed motor shut down.

Thanks again for the help, i would love to get to the bottom of this.
 
mrbgrant; holding a finger over the vac switch port doesn't simulate a vacuum condition, the best way to jump the vac switch is with the wires being connected that are usually on the normally open contacts. No matter, it sounds like you got it fixed, good job.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Overfireinthehole
Almost has to be a bad board? Dip switches are correct. The only thing that is suspect is that the current part # is 1-00-05886. Maybe the board you got was a old stock board that got sent back?
 
Almost has to be a bad board? Dip switches are correct. The only thing that is suspect is that the current part # is 1-00-05886. Maybe the board you got was a old stock board that got sent back?

Rickwai- I am in agreement with you, This OEM replacement board (this new platinum board is much different from the original board) was one of those refurbished boards from ebay (from a very reputable company), they had stated to me that they sometimes get returns from Amazon, test them and sell them as refurbished. Their tech service gentleman is nice and i am hoping to have a resolution.....But in the end i am thinking the board was originally returned due to performance issues.

i will post a final note when i get a resolution. Thanks again for all the help. i am just glad that i got the original board going again.
 
mrbgrant, is that the refurbished from ebay for like $139.00?
 
Yeah, Makes sense. Buy a new OEM Harman board and forget about it for another 15 yrs:).