2003 Englander 25-pdv

[NewtoPellets97]

Hey guys! Recently I posted asking for advice on a pellet stove that would run for approximately 4 hours and then completely shut down without any error codes. I was told it was the control board, so I replaced that... now my stove immediately shuts off and shows an E-1/E-2 code. Which seems to be failure to light/vacuum switch. My stove is a 2003 25-pdv so it doesn’t have an igniter. Should it have a vacuum/ vacuum hose? If so, I have a problem because mine doesn’t appear to have one. What next? Was really excited about this stove but now it’s looking to be more trouble than it’s worth.

 

[Ssyko]

Actually there is supposed to be 2 vacumm switches. On goes where the hose is on the exhaust housing. The other goes on the other side of the stove and the hose goes to a nipple mounted on the back of the fire bix. Looks like the previous owner removed the safety’s from the stove cause they were to lazy to clean it. I will get on my desktop and get some pics. Here is a video of the pdvc your stoves lil brother same set up on both

Safety video

 

[gfreek]

Should have one of these each or similar depending on age.

Englander Vacuum Switch (OEM): PU-VS

Englander Vacuum Switch # PU-VS The vacuum hose from this switch connects to the Exhaust Blower of the stove. Will retrofit to older (metal) type switches in our older model pellet units. 2006 and later model pellet stoves use 1 ea CU-VS and 1 ea PU-VS. Pre 2006 models use 2 ea PU-VS. 0.17" WC PF

pellet-stove-parts-4less.com

Englander Vacuum Shut-Down Switch (OEM): CU-VS

Englander Stove Vacuum Shut Down Switch Part #CU-VS. This is the "Door Ajar Switch." This part is used in 2006 and later model pellet stoves. Order Now Online.

pellet-stove-parts-4less.com

 

[NewtoPellets97]

Actually there is supposed to be 2 vacumm switches. On goes where the hose is on the exhaust housing. The other goes on the other side of the stove and the hose goes to a nipple mounted on the back of the fire bix. Looks like the previous owner removed the safety’s from the stove cause they were to lazy to clean it. I will get on my desktop and get some pics. Here is a video of the pdvc your stoves lil brother same set up on both

Safety video

So since they’ve been removed, is there a way to replace them? My new board won’t work without them apparently. But the previous owner seems to have removed them and the wiring.

 

[gfreek]

Any instructions or diagrams with new board, do you have the owners manual ??? Looks like page 19 shows wiring diagram .

 

[Ssyko]

on your new board are all the connectors used on the top of the board(yellow)? in red there is a jumper for stoves that did not have the combustion blower vac switch(your vintage) and the firbox vacuum switch was in line with the upper auger motorfollow the wire diagram to add the switches. if you can i would add both .

 

[NewtoPellets97]

Here’s the old and new boards as well as the only instructions the new one came with. When the new board is hooked up, it uses terminals 1-8, leaving 9-10 empty. There are no other wires to connect to the J-2 for the vacuum switch.

 

[Ssyko]

ok the control board terminal 3 Upper is silk screened in between the hot and com of those two terminals. the hot wire will go down into the harness and go to one side of your vac switch, then out the other terminal on the vac switch to the 1 side of the auger, out the other side of the auger and back to the com to the rt side of the upper silk screen. (see pic 1) check and make sure you have a vac port to connect to on the firebox. i did not see one in you pics. if you don't have a port let me know

 

[gfreek]

Terminal 9 and 10 are for igniter which you don't have. Looks like the J2 connections for vacuum switch are jumped on Old board, which would bypass the "safety" combustion switch .. Looking at the pic of the New board is the "vac bypass" J11 already jumped ?

 

[NewtoPellets97]

Terminal 9 and 10 are for igniter which you don't have. Looks like the J2 connections for vacuum switch are jumped on Old board, which would bypass the "safety" combustion switch .. Looking at the pic of the New board is the "vac bypass" J11 already jumped ?

J11 is not jumped on the new board. I’m assuming that’s why it won’t run with the new board because there’s not a vacuum switch on my stove and the terminal isn’t jumped.

 

[NewtoPellets97]

ok the control board terminal 3 Upper is silk screened in between the hot and com of those two terminals. the hot wire will go down into the harness and go to one side of your vac switch, then out the other terminal on the vac switch to the 1 side of the auger, out the other side of the auger and back to the com to the rt side of the upper silk screen. (see pic 1) check and make sure you have a vac port to connect to on the firebox. i did not see one in you pics. if you don't have a port let me know
View attachment 269231

View attachment 269232

So to get my stove working with the new board, I just attach a shunt pin to J11? Do I still need to install the vacuum switches? Or will it run permanently with just the shunt pin?

 

[Ssyko]

if it is shunted it will run no matter what..if there is no vac nipple on the back of the firewall then i would add a switch to the nipple on the exhaust housing and run 2 wires to the spades next to the j11 it labled vac sensor it needs a safety of some ind

 

[Ssyko]

wait a min my bad im thinking pdvc the vac nipple is on the rt side of the stove as you face it inside the door, on the wall

 

[ericofmaine]

Also, is it just me or does it look like, in the second picture, that the blue hose is some how "jumping out" a vacuum port?

Eric

 

[Ssyko]

Thats what i saw too Eric. It may be old enough that both vac ports were on the combustion housing. Mine was a 2004 and was in the rt grill area

 

[ericofmaine]

Ssyko,

My 2008 is the same.

Eric