2017 Silverado oil change

[miteclipse]

Good morning,

It's time for me to change the oil. The first 2 free oil changes were completed by the dealer. I have 2 jugs of 10w30 Pennzoil Platinum that I picked up fro AAP last year at a heck of a closeout deal for 2 bucks each. Truck calls for 0w20. Should I use the 10w30 or go with 0w20? I've read where some people say use it. Others say no due to VVT/AFM and possible throwing a MIL code.

Thanks!

 

[festerw]

Use 0w-20, why chance it for $50 worth of oil.

You can get Mobil 0w-20 at Wally World for $25/5 quart and Mobil has a mail in rebate for $12 back on each jug.

 

[blades]

over head cam eng- timing system - timing chain tension system & VCT- you must stay with 0/20 product particularly important when temps get on the low side. 10/30 is too thick for reliable performance of the timing system. It is not a matter of starving the crank or pistons of oil but of the timing system. if you oil is too thick the tension system of the chain/belt will not operate correctly and the cam phasers will also not operate correctly. Meanwhile the computer will be trying to compensate. Worst case scenario is not a pretty sight and quite expensive to repair could even require complete replacement of eng. its bad enough dealing with the various less than adequate forethoughts of the design engineers and the poor choice of parts suppliers, in some cases, on the oem side. Tolerances on this new stuff are extremely tight- there is very little wiggle room. In the old push rod units 10/30 was fine. Recently a glitch came to lite regarding the tension guides on a lot of over head cam units- a flaw in the guide production molds. Dang plastic parts were breaking left and right and generally you would not know until too late as evidenced by a catastrophic event.

 

[miteclipse]

Thanks for the replies. Looks like 0w20 is the way to go.

 

[Highbeam]

I just had to go and buy 0w20 for the wife's Nissan car. Mobile1 from walmart was like 25$ for a 5 quart jug which is only slightly higher than anything else on the shelf. The biggest problem for me is the inconvenience of stocking several different oils for the various vehicles. However, since these things are designed for and require a specific oil weight I feel obligated to deliver the required lube if I'm going to be doing this in my garage.Same thing with antifreeze, lots of colors.

When you shake a jug of 0w-20 it sounds like a jug of water. Really weird and really different than 10/30 or 20/50.

 

[miteclipse]

What filter did you pick up?

 

[blades]

Ah filters- Fram"s are not enjoying a particularly good rap lately- best to stay with OEM recommended brand- again has to do with oil delivery to timing system on ohv units. there is a back flow check vale built into some of them so that when you hit the starter there is oil pressure for the timing system almost immediately. This necessary for the timing chain/belt to be tension-ed immediately there by providing the proper amount of advance or retard through the phasers of the cams. Oh and it is also best to change oil apx every 3k miles particularly if doing a lot of city driving. Yes I am aware of oem spec in this regard- but I know what works to provided a long and peaceful power plant run. the thing is the oil passages and tolerances of parts in the timing system now are on the order of rocket science- a little dirt and things start getting mucked up. Doesn't take much to hang up a variable cam timing solenoid, freeze a turbo bearing or score a cam journal.

 

[miteclipse]

This requires the pf63e with 22 bypass setting. Fram, purolator state to have this but its hard to know for sure. Likewise I still change my vehicles at 3k mile intervals

 

[Highbeam]

I always acquire the specified wix filter (same as napa gold) for my vehicles. Usually costs more than other filters. Choosing brands of filter or even oil can be very religious to some folks.

 

[begreen]

This is an old study, but it made me think twice about Fram filters. Since then they have come out with some extended duty and heavy service filters.
(broken link removed to https://www.austincc.edu/wkibbe/oilfilterstudy.htm)
More recent tests
https://filtrationcomparisons.weebly.com/test-pictures-and-results.html

 

[SpaceBus]

Usually a just put Rotella T6 in everything, but I've yet to deal with some of this new stuff. It really shouldn't matter since a 10w is better than 0w in the winter. A 30 weight oil vs 20 weight is more about viscosity at high temp. The 30 weight should give more temperature protection and should flow the same as a 20 when hot. I am not a fluid engineer but I do read papers written by folks that are. Do not take what I have to say as advice, merely me thinking into the text entry area.

Another FWIW, my wife's Abarth has a fully electro hydraulic valve control system on the intake side and it calls for a 10w-40 (I use T6). This is probably due to the turbo being right next to the cylinder head and very hot. I don't have the proper diag equipment, but I'd bet the oil in her 1.4t four cylinder probably runs as hot or hotter than my 5.9t diesel six cylinder.

My 32V V8 Mustang called for a 20 weight oil, but it ran much better with less blow by with T6. I don't always trust the MFG. They may have reasons other than longevity for certain specs.

 

[SpaceBus]

Also, send you oil in to be analyzed, you'd be amazed at how far you can go on a quality oil. Think about big rigs, they don't change oil every 3,000 miles.

The biggest difference between synthetic and conventional oil is how long it lasts. Second is pumping viscosity at ambient temp. Most cars spec synthetic oil due to decreased emissions at startup. A 20 weight oil also helps this. Cars run super lean at startup to help them get hot quickly and a "thinner" oil helps. I wouldn't trust a 20 weight oil if I were towing often or keeping the engine in the high RPM range for a long time. The heat will break the oil down very rapidly. When taking a Mustang to the track Ford recommends using 40 or 50 weight oil to keep up with the high temps.

 

[miteclipse]

On some 10w30s the cold cranking is better than the 0w20. Also 0w30 may work as well. I would hate for 0w20 to act like a 0w16 when hot. There is always some type of variable when deciding. My 2000 escort runs 5w30 qsud with no issue, 146k on mileage

 

[festerw]

Also, send you oil in to be analyzed, you'd be amazed at how far you can go on a quality oil. Think about big rigs, they don't change oil every 3,000 miles.

I was curious last month so I sent a sample of 0w-20 Valvoline from my 4.7 Tundra with 195k on it.

Oil had 7500 miles on it and everything came back looking great so the next one will be 10k.

 

[SpaceBus]

I was curious last month so I sent a sample of 0w-20 Valvoline from my 4.7 Tundra with 195k on it.

Oil had 7500 miles on it and everything came back looking great so the next one will be 10k.

That's also a great engine if you keep up on timing belts (I have no idea if/when Toyota switched to a timing chain).

 

[brenndatomu]

Think about big rigs, they don't change oil every 3,000 miles.

They also only turn 12-1500 RPM going down the road, and hold ~10 gallons of oil...almost all "highway driving" too.

 

[SpaceBus]

They also only turn 12-1500 RPM going down the road, and hold ~10 gallons of oil...almost all "highway driving" too.

Yeah, most people don't go over 2,500 RPM either. I'm not saying to go for 50,000 miles on a change of oil, bit you can go over 3,000.

Also, highway driving is relevant to diesel use since they maintain the same RPM pretty much the whole time on thd freeway, and this is how they are built to be used.

 

[PaulOinMA]

… Oil had 7500 miles on it and everything came back looking great so the next one will be 10k …

Yup. I'm on enough car web sites where folks have sent their oil out for analysis and it's fine at 10,000 miles to show that manufacturer's recommended oil change intervals are good.

In addition to the manufacturer's weight of oil, many manufacturers have approved oils meeting their specs. I always look at the back of the bottle, too. Easy to get what you need these days, and manufacturer's specs are also shown on the oil's web sites.

https://mobiloil.com/en/product-sel...icmlkIDQtQ3lsIDIuNSAoMykgKEVMRUNUUklDL0dBUyk=

My wife's 2012 Escape Hybrid takes 5W-20 meeting Ford 945 spec. My 2014 Escape with the 2-L turbo takes 5W-30 meeting Ford 946 spec. My wife's 2004 Audi TT 3.2 VR6 takes 0W-40 meeting VW 502 spec (other weights o.k., too). My previous 2011 VW JSE TDI used 5W-30 meeting VW 507 spec (low sulfur).

My wife's 1966 Moke takes 20W-50, a heavy-weight oil by today's standards. The motor oil is also the transmission fluid.

 

[SpaceBus]

Yup. I'm on enough car web sites where folks have sent their oil out for analysis and it's fine at 10,000 miles to show that manufacturer's recommended oil change intervals are good.

In addition to the manufacturer's weight of oil, many manufacturers have approved oils meeting their specs. I always look at the back of the bottle, too. Easy to get what you need these days, and manufacturer's specs are also shown on the oil's web sites.

https://mobiloil.com/en/product-selector?Year=2012&Model=RXNjYXBl&Make=Rm9yZA==&Engine=SHlicmlkIDQtQ3lsIDIuNSAoMykgKEVMRUNUUklDL0dBUyk=

My wife's 2012 Escape Hybrid takes 5W-20 meeting Ford 945 spec. My 2014 Escape with the 2-L turbo takes 5W-30 meeting Ford 946 spec. My wife's 2004 Audi TT 3.2 VR6 takes 0W-40 meeting VW 502 spec (other weights o.k., too). My previous 2011 VW JSE TDI used 5W-30 meeting VW 507 spec (low sulfur).

My wife's 1966 Moke takes 20W-50, a heavy-weight oil by today's standards. The motor oil is also the transmission fluid.

Mokes are neat! It uses thick oil at ambient temp, but at operating temp I'm sure it flows faster than water. Sounds like a motorcycle engine, which I wouldn't be surprised if it is! I caught the tail end of a car TV show about restoring a Moke.

 

[SpaceBus]

Also, not all synthetic oils are created equally and this is why T6 goes into everything I own.

 

[PaulOinMA]

… I caught the tail end of a car TV show about restoring a Moke.

That might have been Wheeler Dealers.

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They talk a lot about rust on the show and end the episode driving the Moke on a beach through salt-water spray. Yeesh!

Nan's is an English (not Australian or Portugese) Moke. A whole whoppin' 848 cc!

At a Herb Chambers Cars & Coffee …

 

[SpaceBus]

That might have been Wheeler Dealers.

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They talk a lot about rust on the show and end the episode driving the Moke on a beach through salt-water spray. Yeesh!

Nan's is an English (not Australian or Portugese) Moke. A whole whoppin' 848 cc!

At a Herb Chambers Cars & Coffee …

Wow, love both of them. The Audi, especially if it's the high output version, is a neat car. One of a few AWD convertibles. It was definitely wheeler dealers, I love that show.

 

[PaulOinMA]

Yes, it's the 250-h.p. 3.2-L VR6 engine. It is a 2004 Imola yellow quattro 3.2DSG S-Line roadster with the baseball optic interior (baseball glove-like stitching).

It was CPO car out of California in 2006 with 5,000 miles on it. Owned by the dealership owner. Had 20-inch wheels in the online pictures, but they still had the original 18-inch Audi wheels at the dealership. No way 20-inch wheels with rubber bands for tires are going to work on New England roads with potholes.

I'm not a fan of the stiff ride as it is with the stiff suspension (was previously the optional sport suspension) and optional 18-inch wheels with 225/40-18 tires. Can't imagine what the ride would be like with an inch less sidewall. .

There were actually three very similar, low mileage Imola yellow TT roadsters, all in CA, when she bought it. Dealership split the transportation cost with us.

 

[SpaceBus]

Yes, it's the 250-h.p. 3.2-L VR6 engine. It is a 2004 Imola yellow quattro 3.2DSG S-Line roadster with the baseball optic interior (baseball glove-like stitching).

It was CPO car out of California in 2006 with 5,000 miles on it. Owned by the dealership owner. Had 20-inch wheels in the online pictures, but they still had the original 18-inch Audi wheels at the dealership. No way 20-inch wheels with rubber bands for tires are going to work on New England roads with potholes.

I'm not a fan of the stiff ride as it is with the stiff suspension (was previously the optional sport suspension) and optional 18-inch wheels with 225/40-18 tires. Can't imagine what the ride would be like with an inch less sidewall. .

There were actually three very similar, low mileage Imola yellow TT roadsters, all in CA, when she bought it. Dealership split the transportation cost with us.

Wow, that is a slick setup! I looked really hard at MKV DSG Golf R32s for a while for a fun DD. Basically the same car with a hatch and back seats, but the R32 looks better in the obligatory blue. Now that we live in the land of garbage roads my wife's Abarth cabrio is sporty enough. I much prefer the ride with the 15" winter wheels vs the 17" summer setup. Now we are drooling over the new Jeep Gladiator for her next car in a few years. We would ideally like an electric gladiator, but I don't think that's going to happen. Using my Dually whenever we want to kayak, hike, or take a dog somewhere is cumbersome. For the first time in my life I don't feel like going so fast anymore. My favorite drive now is my tractor

 

[PaulOinMA]

A friend has (had?) a 2004 (I think) R32.

I sold my base 1983 VW Rabbit L (1.7-L with a carb, 65 h.p. (!), 4 speed) and got a tornado red 1987 GTi 16v in August 1987. Had it over 9 years and 175,000 miles until the transmission blew. VW tech bought it for his son, and he kept it to 255,000 miles. They would still see it on the highway after that.

I got a B4 1997 Passat GLX wagon with a stick. Liked it a lot. Sold that and got a Mk. IV 2001 GTI GLX. Only had that a few years. Missed the extra room and 4 doors.

Traded the '01 GTI in on a loaded 2003 Audi A4 Avant Quattro with a stick (green with tan interior) that was the Audi regional reps car. A friend is a tech at the Audi dealership and he said it was a rare car. He still tells people about it.

Traded the Audi in on a non-emissions compliant VW JSW TDI.