Trying to make this an easier install as well as cheaper tell me what you guys think. I have a wood stove currently in my living room centrally located exterior chimney. My chimneyes extends down to the basement level and has a separate flue through the wall with a clay thimble. I was thinking I could basically use an add on furnace right there and run two duct runs to opposite ends of the house and also function as a stove by radiatING up the central portion of the house. The location is around 12 feet away from an open stair case leading to main floor. It is a 3/4 finished basement. I could just pass a class A chimney through my foundation and tie into my ductwork which starts in the far corner of the utility room. But useing the existing chimney is cheaper and easier. Would this setup work ? Main reason for this is my main level is a cathedral ceiling A-frame and I am trying to get more of a whole house heat going on. Running ducts to each far end won't be as good as tie in into existing ducts but figure maybe someone has attempted this here thanks again
add on furnace acting as a stove
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Running the seperate ducts is actually better as the can conform to code which existing ducts will not. different specs for solid fuel appliances. Solid fuel appliances - code is one appliance one flue in most areas no co-mingling of muti appliances per flue.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Hi TJ!
That's is basically what I did at my sisters house only I had to put up a class A chimney through the foundation. It works pretty good for them. The furnace is at one end of a long ranch house, I extended ducts part way down the length of the house and rely on the basement door acting as a cold air return (at the opposite end of the house) to help move the heat throughout the remainder of the house.
What size is the flue that you would tie into? Make sure it isn't too big for the furnace you are considering (assuming that would be 6") Using the existing chimney likely would be fine, a SS liner may be a real good idea though.
Like blades said, this would give you the opportunity to follow clearance recommendations on the new ducts which your existing ducts likely would not meet when used with a solid fuel furnace
That's is basically what I did at my sisters house only I had to put up a class A chimney through the foundation. It works pretty good for them. The furnace is at one end of a long ranch house, I extended ducts part way down the length of the house and rely on the basement door acting as a cold air return (at the opposite end of the house) to help move the heat throughout the remainder of the house.
What size is the flue that you would tie into? Make sure it isn't too big for the furnace you are considering (assuming that would be 6") Using the existing chimney likely would be fine, a SS liner may be a real good idea though.
Like blades said, this would give you the opportunity to follow clearance recommendations on the new ducts which your existing ducts likely would not meet when used with a solid fuel furnace
sloeffle
Minister of Fire
Is the building code saying that the duct work needs to be separate based on the state ? And if so can you direct me to the code.
Isn't the premise of an add on wood furnace based on tieing into the existing oil/gas forced air furnace duct work? If code is saying 1" clearance to combustables (wood framing) for the entire hot air duct system I don't see how this is possible, especially runs through walls to the second floor. If this is truely code how does anyone sell an add on wood furnace? I absolutely see the need for the 2" and 1" clearance requirements in the duct runs from the wood furnace to the existing plenum of the main forced air furnace - but beyond that ??
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
If it is a building code, it would likely be a local code. In general it is NFPA code that is being followed, or the manufacturers recommendations, based on their testing to meet UL (and others?) standards. If you install in a way that doesn't meet those standards, it would give the insurance co. an out if something happened fire wise.
The manufacturers just tell you how you are supposed to install it, it's up to you to figure out how to actually do it. The clearance requirements usually reduce down to the same as any other furnace after the first 6-10' or so, which I think is 1" until the first 90* bend, or something like that. Heck, my Yukon furnace calls for 6" clearance for the first 6', but that is just because it is certified to be able to run when the power is out. Most others are 2" I believe.
No idea on code for Seneca ohio. But I'm also not ready to commit either. I just know I have a perfectly good chimney ready to use located in the center of the house. I planned to run two ducts along ceiling of finished basement. One would be directed right toward my open stair case leading to main floor. The other would point toward opposite end of the house and just dump into ceiling of basement really. Having the furnace would allow me to play with thsee options and if it didn't work or did I could save for an sd liner for existing chimney or save for a class a out of my foundation. The existing lp gas furnace is located in the corner of basement with a long run to the other end. He'll I could just slap another nc30 down there and probably accomplish the same really. But I like the option of possibly tie in into existing duct if it doesn't work out
Add on furnace, does it have its own fan? Don't add on depend on the fossil fuel fan. If it does not have its own fan its a bad idea.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Yes the add on furnaces I am looking at all have a blower. The advantage I see to the furnace vs freestanding is that I can use 2 short duct runs and direct the majority of the heat output . Especially firing up my stairs that would heat my kitchen under loft great! How long of a run are these blowers good for in these add on furnaces?
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
All depends on the size of the duct and how any turns are done. Also, size/HP/rated output of the blower
What models are you considering?
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