Adding a baseboard zone to a force air system...

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Sadly, probably with electric baseboard.
 
I'm a bit confused. Forced air gasifier is a hot air furnace? Or boiler with an exchanger? If the latter, just t off piping similar to how the exchanger is t'd. Unless I'm missing something?
 
I'm a bit confused. Forced air gasifier is a hot air furnace? Or boiler with an exchanger? If the latter, just t off piping similar to how the exchanger is t'd. Unless I'm missing something?
Yes it's the latter. Gasifier boiler with a HX in the forced air system. I'm unclear about "where the best place would be" to t off into the piping?
 
why not just put a take off in the supply air trunk.
 
Might help if you put a diagram up of what you have now. Or is this all totally new and in planning?
Might help if you put a diagram up of what you have now. Or is this all totally new and in planning?

hope this is good enough [Hearth.com] Adding a baseboard zone to a force air system...
 
Can't see how that's more efficient, but ducting will be cheaper.
 
Saw some European wall and baseboard radiators that heat at low water temps. Plus to me forced air is less efficient by design. Air stops temp drops. Baseboard heating radiates heat longer because water holds the heat in the system.
Can't see how that's more efficient, but ducting will be cheaper.
 
Can you post the full pic of your system? You might get some improvement ideas or suggestions on this & other things - while you're at it. Be good to get feedback on the whole thing, at this stage.

For starters, I think I would plumb the tanks in parallel, and reverse return, for better stratification & heat distribution through your storage. Also not sure how your expansion is tied in there, it's cut off - and return temp protection. And I would likely T off a zone supply (supplies) between your tanks & the first HX - to quickly address your original question. And the way it is now, all the heat is going thru the DHW HX and the hot air HX at the same time. Without knowing how things are controlled, can't comment a lot on this - but I like having each heat using thing on its own loop. A problem with one thing could put the kaibosh on everything.
 
Funny...I just went through this exact same thing. Refinishing the basement, need more heat.

My choices were between adding baseboard as a new zone from my gasser (also feeding a forced air HX currently), raise the floor for some in-floor radiant or go electric.

I ended up installing two 220V electric wall-mount heaters (Cadet ComPak).

I listed all the pro's and con's of each of my choices. The seasonality of my burning and the appearance of baseboard is ultimately what pushed me to my final decision. I know there are some very nice panel rad's out there that look much nicer than traditional baseboard but it's mega dollars. And even with high end panel rad's I couldn't accept not being able to keep the basement comfortable during the shoulder season when I'm not necessarily burning.

From a cost standpoint I couldn't beat the electric units. And they are quite attractive since they are in the wall with an easily paintable grill. And 10-3 wire is a lot easier to run than O2 barrier pex...
 
If you were going to go with cast iron or flat panels that were sized for low water temps, you could tap the return from the air handler. That would really drop the temps going into storage, and help your boiler maximize heat transfer. The flip side is that you will have to pump your Hx when you want flow to the baseboards, even if you dont want it for the rest of the house.

Maple makes some great points about having things in series, might be better to set up a manifold or multiple zones to heat baseboard directly instead of tapping a main loop. But as Stee mentioned, the costs might get way up there.
 
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