All Nighter

[48rob]

Hi All,

I picked up an All Nighter Mid Moe to install in a pole barn shop we just put up.

The stove cleaned up nice, and after replacing firebrick and inspecting everything, I installed as per the manual, and normal installation.

It works fine...goes through a lot of wood, but it is heating 1200 sq' with 19' ceilings...

My concern and question is the way the stove is designed.
I've studied all the information here on them, and the stove itself;

As you can see in the drawing, the flames in the firebox go out the back of the stove, and into the flue.
When reloading, I can see the flames from the fire in the stove going into the flue elbow.
I can't tell how far they are going, but it concerns me.
The stove has a heavy plate steel thimble that runs 8" or so out the back of the stove, that the elbow connects to.
It seems like there should be a baffle, but there isn't, and no signs or clues that there ever was.
I realize that a LOT of heat goes out the back of any stove and into the flue, but seeing flames have/take a direct path into the elbow has me concerned.
Should I be? Should a baffle be installed?

Thanks!

Rob

 

[coaly]

Most everything about the stove can be related to a Fisher. They were built by a Fisher fabricator that copied the design and was sued for patent rights and became their own business. There is a sub forum for Fisher under the Classic Stove Forum.
The Fisher double door stoves after 1980 incorporated baffles to reduce smoke particulate. I adapted the design into the single door stoves that works very well.
Here's the thread;
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...d-fisher-more-heat-less-smoke-under-25.74710/

Simply make yourself a cardboard template that fits well, and use it as a pattern for a steel plate.

 

[mzadrick]

Most everything about the stove can be related to a Fisher. They were built by a Fisher fabricator that copied the design and was sued for patent rights and became their own business. There is a sub forum for Fisher under the Classic Stove Forum.
The Fisher double door stoves after 1980 incorporated baffles to reduce smoke particulate. I adapted the design into the single door stoves that works very well.
Here's the thread;
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...d-fisher-more-heat-less-smoke-under-25.74710/

Simply make yourself a cardboard template that fits well, and use it as a pattern for a steel plate.

That's a great article! I can't wait to give that a try in my mid moe as well. Thanks

 

[48rob]

Thank you!

That makes perfect sense.
Have you, or anyone here tried adapting the built in air tubes to pump in preheated combustion air to the upper chamber?
I've read several methods to add it in other stoves, but anything specific to the all nighters heavy pipe already welded in?

Rob

 

[coaly]

No. The flames created by burning smoke would be at the stove top in front of the outlet. Picture the smoke moving across those tubes moving towards the outlet. That is what the flames would be. A pretty torch going out the vent. Not heating the stove top or fuel load. The air needs to be introduced below the baffle plate. The angled baffle plate needs to "roll" the smoke down so when ignited it continues to heat the fuel as well. The tubes may not preheat the air enough. I assume you're referring to plugging the top of the tube and not using a blower for barometric pressure to push into the air supply tube. It's not pumped in, the low pressure created by rising gasses in chimney creates the low pressure area in stove to allow barometric pressure to push air in. The slow movement through the tube would be needed to preheat the air. The smoke can't be chilled with incoming air. (I believe below 700*f) This would also make the tubes inoperable for circulating heat into the room. Keeping them open would flush air through so fast it would not be anywhere near hot enough to combust smoke particles. The air mixed with smoke needs to be really hot.

I'm experimenting with secondary air in Fisher's only. (since I have them) I see no reason why the same design would not work in your stove. This is accomplished without any modifications, cutting or drilling on the stove. VERY promising so far, but glass door stoves are much more suited for it so you can see the secondary combustion to control it properly. They are also wider with double doors for a larger square inch area of baffle where air is introduced.

 

[48rob]

Thank you for the detailed explanation!

Yes, I was thinking weld shut the tubes where they exit, control the intake, and allow combustion air to be drawn in.
It may very well not have enough time to get hot enough.
I see now too, where the baffle plate musty be a good design.
My Englander does, and it works very well!

Rob