Another wood stove heating water question(s)

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

newguy08

Member
Hearth Supporter
Dec 5, 2008
27
Southern Tier NY
I have read all of the posts regarding converting a wood stove to be able to heat water for residential heating. Many of these posts reported good luck. I am looking to convert my wood stove and have a few questions to those of you who have some experience.

1. Have any of you placed the steel tubing in the "air channel" which circulates the warm air instead of installing into the firebox?
2. If not, does anyone have any reason to believe that this might not be worth the effort due to decrease temperature or?? ( I had thought of this so not to cut into the firebox itself.)
3. With all of the information about hooking up a circulating pump and using pressure relief valves, I have not read anything about what happens to the system once the thermostat reaches the set temperature? With my gas boiler it would shut down and stop circulating. What happens in this situation as the water within the steel tubes would still continue to heat? Would you set the thermostat to a higher temperature to keep the circulating pump operating?

Thanks
 
newguy08 said:
I have read all of the posts regarding converting a wood stove to be able to heat water for residential heating. Many of these posts reported good luck. I am looking to convert my wood stove and have a few questions to those of you who have some experience.

1. Have any of you placed the steel tubing in the "air channel" which circulates the warm air instead of installing into the firebox?
2. If not, does anyone have any reason to believe that this might not be worth the effort due to decrease temperature or?? ( I had thought of this so not to cut into the firebox itself.)
3. With all of the information about hooking up a circulating pump and using pressure relief valves, I have not read anything about what happens to the system once the thermostat reaches the set temperature? With my gas boiler it would shut down and stop circulating. What happens in this situation as the water within the steel tubes would still continue to heat? Would you set the thermostat to a higher temperature to keep the circulating pump operating?

Thanks

Are you reading the same posts we are? The vast majority of the posts that *I* have seen seem to be saying poor to mediocre results... Not to mention the issues of code compliance, voiding stove warranties and UL listings, etc...

No answers to your first two questions, the answer to the third is that if you don't maintain circulation at ALL TIMES when the stove is running, you will find out either just how your pressure relief valve works or how your stove looks in orbit... This includes not only when any heat loads are satisfied, but also any possible pump failure, power failure, etc... You MUST have some kind of provision for gravity circulation that can get rid of the heat produced by the stove, or some other form of heat dump that will do the same thing...

Gooserider
 
Status
Not open for further replies.