Are these gaskets "high density" gaskets?

[cabinwarmer]

Good Day, I am in need shortly to replace my door gasket on my GM60. I have an OEM kit ordered, but was hoping to find some clarity around the two gaskets I have attached below. Are these "high density"? I read on this forum that HD is recommended. I think they are, but would like your thoughts.

Thanks, Dave

 

[PA. Woodsman]

I just went through this "journey"last year with gaskets, what a fun time that was! I learned that there are 3 types, soft, medium and hard, and finally decided on one at Stove's N Stuff in Emmaus that seems okay but I did have some issues with it.

Is there a phone number on the bagged one, or could you Google it to see if you could find one? I would give them a call asking them about it. And the loose one looks like it was from a stove shop maybe? Would they know?

Good luck!

 

[kennyp2339]

The white one looks like a high density, very tight braids vs the looser fluff but I could be mistaken to

 

[cabinwarmer]

Black is from mid-west hearth. I can contact them, good idea. The white one is from Salters Stove in Hatfield PA. The OEM is on its way via fed ex. I will take a look at all three and see how they compare. Interesting, thanks for the feedback.

 

[PA. Woodsman]

The white one looks like a high density, very tight braids vs the looser fluff but I could be mistaken to

I was thinking the same thing!

 

[begreen]

Go with the OEM, there is more than just the outside weave and visual looks of the gasket that matters.

 

[D. Hermit]

So as someone who restores stoves and runs a gasket kit business on Ebay, the best gasket for your stove is exactly what the manufacturer designed the stove with. This is what its tested with, and how it was designed to operate.
Many modern stoves use majority low density graphite coated gasket. Most all vintage stoves used high density gasket. Which used to be asbestos rope for awhile.

And even the hardware store stuff does not tell you what density it is. (Which was your question)

You cannot tell by just the color if its an hd or ld gasket. My manufacturer here in the usa , can make me any density rope or tape, white or graphite coated, stainless steel mesh, pressure adhesive, tadpole, literally anything. The biggest difference with the gray rope which has the graphite coating, is that it will last longer than plain non coated white rope. Other than that they are still all rated to the same 1000 degrees, and can be any density.

The problem is, some stove companies are pretty tight lipped about what gaskets exactly they use. Because they want you to keep coming back for their oem kits. Some will tell you size but not density. Which is only half the equation. It takes a lot of digging to get ahold of the real proper specs for some of these gaskets.

 

[D. Hermit]

And the loose one looks like it was from a stove shop maybe? Would they know?

Good luck!

Honestly its to the point where even some stove shops dont know what they are giving you. They dont teach the kid at the counter. I just did a service all to a guy to replace his jotul f3’s glass and glass gasket, and door gasket. I get there and he said he went to the main jotul store around here and got glass and gaskets and just needed them installed. I look at the gaskets, both wrong. Both loose 1/4”ld, both not even cut long enough for the job. And this is a Jotul dealer that gave it to him, they have an actual jotul service shop in house. Still gave him the wrong gaskets.

Thankfully I was prepared. And had the correct 1/4ldsa for the glass, and the 3/8ld g for the door.

But even Ive been given the wrong gasket for stoves from dealers because they dont look up the actual part numbers.

This is all why I found myself a manufacturer, I got sick of it.

 

[begreen]

Honestly its to the point where even some stove shops dont know what they are giving you.

Got that right. I bought replacement gasket from a PE dealer in Seattle and they sold me Meeco gold which was so hard it leaked like a sieve. And this was an old guy, no kid.
Many modern stoves have compound gaskets, like a rope woven within a rope. I wouldn't call these low density gaskets, like a Rutland. They're more like a medium density compound gasket. That's why I will only go with OEM now. The new cat stoves and hybrids also look like they want this style gasket which I have not seen at local hardware stores.

 

[D. Hermit]

Many modern stoves have compound gaskets, like a rope woven within a rope.

Those are the newest type, they are called “internal core” gaskets. They are made to increase compression resilience. And no you will not find them at a hardware store.
The core can even be made with a few different things/ways, normally its a just different density gasket in the core.
But again, you will be on the phone all day with the main offices trying to find someone who will actually give you the real specs, or have connections in the industry to get them.

And as for rutland gaskets, I would not put much trust in them, they have their gaskets made in china and shipped over. The consistency is terrible.

 

[kennyp2339]

@Deranged Hermit thanks for sharing your info, thats all knowledge that has never been shared here, love learning something new.

 

[yooperdave]

Aren't some gaskets hollow and some solid? Solid = denser gasket, no?

 

[D. Hermit]

Aren't some gaskets hollow and some solid? Solid = denser gasket, no?

No, all gaskets are solid, its the tightness of the weave that changes density.

 

[cabinwarmer]

Guys, thank you! This all makes great sense and great information. I have an OEM being shipped to me. I will compare visually, but sounds like that might not even be enough data. I can see why now the manufacturer is so tight lipped, and also why the stove shop most the time is lost.

 

[1990Jotul]

Honestly its to the point where even some stove shops dont know what they are giving you. They dont teach the kid at the counter. I just did a service all to a guy to replace his jotul f3’s glass and glass gasket, and door gasket. I get there and he said he went to the main jotul store around here and got glass and gaskets and just needed them installed. I look at the gaskets, both wrong. Both loose 1/4”ld, both not even cut long enough for the job. And this is a Jotul dealer that gave it to him, they have an actual jotul service shop in house. Still gave him the wrong gaskets.

Thankfully I was prepared. And had the correct 1/4ldsa for the glass, and the 3/8ld g for the door.

But even Ive been given the wrong gasket for stoves from dealers because they dont look up the actual part numbers.

This is all why I found myself a manufacturer, I got sick of it.

You wouldn't happen to know what gasket type was used on the door of a Jotul 8-TDIC would you? I found a quite a few online sources that say 1/4 inch. However the first time I was going to replace my gakset, I ordered this size and when it came it looked nothing like the factory original that was in the stove. I think I ended up getting 3/8 inch LD for it, and it looked more like the original. I now need more and am going through this all over again. I spoke to Woodman's in VT and they said a Jotul 8 TDC (Not TDIC, but I think the stove was made around the same time and would have the same door on ot) needs a 1/4 inch. They sent me a Meeco 1/4 x 6' Black Rope #201B. Once again, it does not look right (too small). By the way, do you also know around what year Jotul stopped using aspestos? Thanks!

 

[D. Hermit]

You wouldn't happen to know what gasket type was used on the door of a Jotul 8-TDIC would you? I found a quite a few online sources that say 1/4 inch. However the first time I was going to replace my gakset, I ordered this size and when it came it looked nothing like the factory original that was in the stove. I think I ended up getting 3/8 inch LD for it, and it looked more like the original. I now need more and am going through this all over again. I spoke to Woodman's in VT and they said a Jotul 8 TDC (Not TDIC, but I think the stove was made around the same time and would have the same door on ot) needs a 1/4 inch. They sent me a Meeco 1/4 x 6' Black Rope #201B. Once again, it does not look right (too small). By the way, do you also know around what year Jotul stopped using aspestos? Thanks!

Do you have a photo of the front of your stove? 8TDIC(Series 8) uses 1/4 but a special higher density. 8TD(C) uses 3/8 standard Jotul density (on the lower end). I do sell kits for both on my eBay store.

 

[vatmark]

Well I am glad I saw this thread. I need new gasket for the front door on my Jotul F500 V2. I believe it is 3/8th inch but had no idea there were low and high density gaskets. I was going to order 3/8 inch Rutland 96-6 Grapho-Glas Rope which I saw on amazon. Guess I need to look into this more.

 

[D. Hermit]

Well I am glad I saw this thread. I need new gasket for the front door on my Jotul F500 V2. I believe it is 3/8th inch but had no idea there were low and high density gaskets. I was going to order 3/8 inch Rutland 96-6 Grapho-Glas Rope which I saw on amazon. Guess I need to look into this more.

I do have OEM kits on my eBay store, I have a couple different ones. Here is just the basic Oslo v1/v2/v3 kit-
Oslo Gasket Kit

If you need something more specific, just shoot me a direct message and I can certainly help get you going in the correct direction.
-Nick

 

[1990Jotul]

Do you have a photo of the front of your stove? 8TDIC(Series 8) uses 1/4 but a special higher density. 8TD(C) uses 3/8 standard Jotul density (on the lower end). I do sell kits for both on my eBay store.

I just DM'd you with photos. Thanks!

 

[Salharmonic]

I do have OEM kits on my eBay store, I have a couple different ones. Here is just the basic Oslo v1/v2/v3 kit-
Oslo Gasket Kit

If you need something more specific, just shoot me a direct message and I can certainly help get you going in the correct direction.
-Nick

hi, do you know if a gasket kit for the doors and ash pan door for an jotul F500 will work for the F600 ?

 

[D. Hermit]

hi, do you know if a gasket kit for the doors and ash pan door for an jotul F500 will work for the F600 ?

Depends how many feet of gasket are in the kit. It is the same size and density gasket.

 

[RobbieTimber]

There must be a verifiable way to determine whether the gasket leaks.

Maybe an infared cam work to see the smoke escaping. Sounds like what the pros would do.

 

[stovelark]

No reason why a Jotul dealer should sell the wrong gasket- Jotul puts the gasket size/type for all stoves in their parts manual and I'd think the dealer would have that page printed and near the gasket area, maybe not... I'd sure like to see the pile of old gaskets I've changed out over the years. I went through the Jotul 1/4" to 3/8" changeover on most stoves. Again, the best reference is the owner's manual, some older Jotul manuals would only mention Jotul PN, not the size, ha. But its always an interesting subject to talk about. Stay warm.

 

[bholler]

There must be a verifiable way to determine whether the gasket leaks.

Maybe an infared cam work to see the smoke escaping. Sounds like what the pros would do.

Smoke will not escape air will be sucked in