A few folks have suggested getting a zippy full of fire extinguishing dry chemical to stash near the stove - possibly as a freebie from your local FD. The idea is that if you get a runaway stove or a chimney fire, you really don't want to dump your pressurized dry-chem extinguisher into the firebox as it might cause flaming stuff to get blown out. Instead just open the door and lob the bag in, then close the door again.
A small to medium fire extinguisher is not a bad idea either, but it should kept near the EXIT door, not next to the stove. (Remember it's a pressurized vessel, which shouldn't be heated...) You don't want to take the chance on getting trapped because you went for the extinguisher - keeping it by the door means you have to go to the exit to get the extinguisher and work your way back to fight the fire, less of a chance of the fire getting between you and the door and cutting off your escape.
Otherwise it sounds like you are getting a fairly good collection of tools, you might also want to think about getting a pair of tongs, which can be handy for moving logs around.
Another thing that I haven't seen you mention is how you are going to get your wood from the storage area to the stove, and / or store the wood you are waiting to burn. You probably don't want to run outside every time you need a split, so something along that line is needed.
I started with a "log sling" that came with a metal frame to hold it up as a storage container when I brought in a load of splits. It was heavy, tended to drop bits everywhere, and was a bit of a PITA generally I also had to get two trips a day when burning heavily. I still use it, but now just as a storage rack.
My log transport is one of these
log carts from Harbor Freight. $40, reasonably well made, and carries in about twice as much wood per trip as I could get with the sling. The wheels make it much easier to move however, and even work well dragging it up the nine or ten steps I need to get up to enter the living room - about like using an appliance dolly. I bring in one FULL cart each day, first I burn the leftovers in the sling, next to the stove, then I burn what's on the cart. The next day I transfer whatever's left on the cart (usually about 1/2 a load) into the sling and get another cartful. It means I don't have to go out in the dark. The cart balances well and rolls easily when loaded. I fill it very full, basically up to the front edge evenly, then all the way up to the handle on a slant.
Problems...
1. The innertubes in the wheels seem a bit porous - I have to pump them up every few weeks.
2. The cart frame limits the split length somewhat. Less than about 16" will fall through, more than 22" won't go between the wheels. (and you can't make the cart wider w/o running into problems with door width) This probably wouldn't be a big deal for most folks as few stoves take splits over 20" anyway.
3. You have to be careful when loading to keep the ends of the splits out of the spokes. (not a big deal)
4. The cart is WIDE - you will only have about 1/2" inch of clearance on each side going through standard size doors, so you need to be careful to get it lined up just right. (especially if you have a door at the top of some stairs like I do)
5. Because of the width and the way the wheels are mounted, which makes it nice to move, it does take up a good bit of floor space.
Nothing terrible, and IMHO well worth the effort it saves in bringing the wood in from the pile.
UPDATE - July 07
I still love this cart, and reccomend it highly, but I have run into a few other limitations - nothing drastic, but just stuff to keep in mind...
6. In addition to moving splits inside in the winter, it is good for moving small to medium sized rounds to the splitting block, and green splits to the drying pile. However it does not work well with rounds over about 16" diameter - aside from the challenge of lifting them up to put them in the cart, they put more "point loads" on the pipes, and I found they tend to bend the frame a bit. The way the weight is distributed with a load of rounds doesn't help either, most of the bend was from attempting to lean the cart back to move it. (probably exceeding the weight capacity as well) I was able to "fix" it by reversing the handle this time, but that is probably not a repair that can be done many times...
7. I mentioned the porous tubes in the tires in #1 above, and I would repeat the asians don't know CHIT about making decent rubber products! Both tubes blew out on me this summer, and in each case the failure was because the rubber "spoke protector" strip had disintegrated and allowed a spoke head to puncture the tube. I took the tires apart, removed the peices of protector, and went over the spoke area with a peice of emery cloth to remove any burrs. then I wrapped the area in several layers of friction tape. I then tried patching the tube, using a standard "self vulcanizing" bicycle tube patch kit - the patch held, but the tube promptly blew again next to the patch.
I patched that hole, and it blew on the OPPOSITE side of the original patch. >:-( I then gave up and replaced the leaky tube with a GOOD replacement from the local pedal bike shop.
Even though I fixed the rim strip on both tires when I found the problem on the first one, the second tube blew a couple weeks later from a spoke head wear point that had already weakened it. This time I didn't try patching, and just replaced the tube. With the new tubes, I haven't had to air the tires up at all, and have had no problems with the cart since... (The tires themselves seem to be OK, but considering the application, they'd have to REALLY be crappy to ever wear out...
So my revised reccomendation is still positive, but includes fixing the tires as soon as you get it.
Gooserider
