Austroflamm Integra still no go

[Flammam]

Frank
I like your approach to troubleshooting the motor, apply the 110 directly to the terminals if it doesn't work under load its shot. There is a huge gear reduction in these motors to give them the torque to auger the pellets up the drop tube. Even if the motor was bad I would doubt you could hold the shaft from spinning with your hand. If it turns out to be the motor I think I have a used spare at home I could let go for a fair price.

John

 

[altmartion]

If my memory is well,ex means exit program,error problem would be-err and then a number.Saw a way to unplug auger from control box and plug it into ignitor spot to test it,was in one of these fourms under rika,i think.Would save you from trying to get behind stove again.Search forums.Also the distributor(lucky distributing)will help with technical problems even though it is out of warrenty.Got to go to work now.Bob

I don't think this will work because the igniter should not ignite if the vac switch is not made. am I right?

 

[RKBAGUY]

So my test is to test the motor in a dynamic load with pellets using straight 110 V power to see if it will feed the pellets. If it does, it dispels my motor and auger defective theory 100%..

Frank, there are a handful of us who have been suggesting this for the past few days. Just try it. You're looking all over for complex problems, ignoring the simple things first.

You also don't say if you've checked the chute. Please try what I suggested, because I think you are either not letting the stove get hot enough on startup to close the low temp switch to toggle, or you have a jam or auger motor problem. But failing to power the motor directly and let it run to see if pellets come down the chute is like getting angry at a gumball machine because you didn't ensure you put a quarter in it.

I doubt it's the brand of pellets. Many of us have used Chow with no trouble. Just run the auger motor directly with enough pellets in the hopper for an adequate test, and let us know how it goes.

 

[Frank Nuhfer]

Maybe it is the motor. I unplugged the auger motor from the stove, and plugged it directly into an extension cord. With pellets in the hopper and knowing that the auger originally moved, I plugged it into AC outlet. I could hear the humm of the motor, but by the time I wiggled an inspection mirror into place w/o touching the live wires, the auger motor collar was not moving. I know it was on the flat of the motor, and I know it was tight when I assembled it a couple of days ago. I know this sounds crazy but I now believe I need a new motor. It should be turning the auger and it isn't.

 

[Frank Nuhfer]

Frank, there are a handful of us who have been suggesting this for the past few days. Just try it. You're looking all over for complex problems, ignoring the simple things first.

You also don't say if you've checked the chute. Please try what I suggested, because I think you are either not letting the stove get hot enough on startup to close the low temp switch to toggle, or you have a jam or auger motor problem. But failing to power the motor directly and let it run to see if pellets come down the chute is like getting angry at a gumball machine because you didn't ensure you put a quarter in it.

I doubt it's the brand of pellets. Many of us have used Chow with no trouble. Just run the auger motor directly with enough pellets in the hopper for an adequate test, and let us know how it goes.

When you say chute, I assume you mean the chute from the auger feed? I can see clear through it from the top of the auger to the burn pot. Clean as a new born baby's patute. I'm sorry if I didn't say something to the effect earlier.

The gasket on the lower cast iron plate is damaged. I ordered one but have not put it on yet. Is it glued on? That will be my next thing to fix before I put it all back together.

I worked outside a week ago and my right arm is now covered with poison ivy and working on the stove has become a challange to say the least. So right now on Tuesday morning, I am convinced it is the auger motor. When i get brave enough to remove the motor again, I will again confirm that the allen head is tight on the auger motor.

I will wait a day or so before ordering the auger motor to allow others to chime in on my diagnostic conclusion.

 

[Flammam]

Sound like the motor is bad to me. When my motor went bad it got real loud, I replaced it before it failed. Ill look tonight to see if I have that spare if your interested.

 

[Frank Nuhfer]

Sound like the motor is bad to me. When my motor went bad it got real loud, I replaced it before it failed. Ill look tonight to see if I have that spare if your interested.

To be honest, I would rather put a brand new one in. I found my exact motor on Ebay, one for $97 plus shipping and the other for $283.99 but free shipping. They both look exactly the same, so I sent an email to ask the cheaper guy why his is so cheap and if it was new or factory refurbished. We shall see what he says.

 

[Frank Nuhfer]

I removed the motor, plugged it in and held the shaft with pliars and it didn'ttake much to stop it. Going by the retail store tomorrow to see if they have one in stock.

 

[Frank Nuhfer]

I removed the motor, plugged it in and held the shaft with pliars and it didn'ttake much to stop it. Going by the retail store tomorrow to see if they have one in stock.

They had one, but it is $358 plus 6% tax but it was my exact motor. I found out that the $97 motor is not from Austria but a substitute for mine. Since my OEM motor lasted from 2008 to 2012, four years, struggling to justify spending that much on a motor that has a 4 year operational life.

 

[Frank Nuhfer]

Frank
I like your approach to troubleshooting the motor, apply the 110 directly to the terminals if it doesn't work under load its shot. There is a huge gear reduction in these motors to give them the torque to auger the pellets up the drop tube. Even if the motor was bad I would doubt you could hold the shaft from spinning with your hand. If it turns out to be the motor I think I have a used spare at home I could let go for a fair price.

John

John, after seeing how much the motor costs retail, and on Ebay, tell me about the used one you have. Why did you remove it? Pt no and all that stuff.

 

[RKBAGUY]

They had one, but it is $358 plus 6% tax but it was my exact motor. I found out that the $97 motor is not from Austria but a substitute for mine. Since my OEM motor lasted from 2008 to 2012, four years, struggling to justify spending that much on a motor that has a 4 year operational life.

Frank, the OEM motor is made by Merkle - Korff, and they're pretty expensive, about $120 on eBay. The higher cost motor sounds like the combustion motor, which you don't need.

There's another brand which escapes me at the moment, but even if it lasts only long enough for one season, you'll be a meat popsicle if you delay a decision for any longer. Just do it.

 

[altmartion]

if you can plug it into a receptical, whay can't you take an amp reading? it will tell you yes or no if the motor is bad.

 

[Flammam]

Frank
is that motor out of a Integra 1 or 2? The motor I have is out of a 1. I got it on ebay with a full lot of interga parts.

 

[Frank Nuhfer]

Frank, the OEM motor is made by Merkle - Korff, and they're pretty expensive, about $120 on eBay. The higher cost motor sounds like the combustion motor, which you don't need.

There's another brand which escapes me at the moment, but even if it lasts only long enough for one season, you'll be a meat popsicle if you delay a decision for any longer. Just do it.

Found this one on Ebay of my exact motor, and it is a Berger Lahr and it costs $283 with free shipping. This is the exact motor that my local stove dealer wants $358 plus 6% tax.

The other one is $97 plus shipping but it is a look-a-like and not from Austria. Pictured below.

 

[Frank Nuhfer]

if you can plug it into a receptical, whay can't you take an amp reading? it will tell you yes or no if the motor is bad.

I am not sure I understand what you're saying. In order to take an amp reading, you need and ampmeter. I don't have an ampmeter. I took an extension cord, put blade terminals on the end, and plugged it into the motor. It turned so it working, but when I grabbed it with pliars, it stopped and it didn't take much force to do so. So I believe I have a defective motor, so what would an amp test tell me? If it draws 1 amp of current, measured with a meter I don't own, is that good or bad? If it draws 1.4amps of current, measured with a meter I don't own, is that a bad reading. So hopefully you see my predicament.

 

[Flammam]

I dont think those are the same motors. Notice the exact replacement has 4 wires actually going into the motor. The 97$ motor will only have 2 wires. Is your stove a integra 2?

 

[Frank Nuhfer]

My stove is an Integra II.

 

[Flammam]

It looks like you should buy the replacement, but before you do call the guy who sells them on ebay his name is J----- M-------(dont know if I can put names here) hes out in california. He will give you the definite answer.

 

[Mt Bob]

Looks like you made headway,if it was plugged into the wall directly and did not push out pellets.Your motor was originally a high quality unit,but I beleve you can interchange it with the cheaper ones that our older ones use.Flammam is right,J>M> on ebay will know,and have the parts in stock.Yes there is a procedure to plug auger in where ignitor plugs in,will continue to run the cycle length of the ignitor when stove is turned on.Flammam,what version programming/eprom are you running?Bob

 

[Mt Bob]

I don't think this will work because the igniter should not ignite if the vac switch is not made. am I right?

No vacuum switch on integra.Combustion fan is controlled by mass air flow sensor,will cycle,we are testing the auger motor.Bob

 

[altmartion]

To be honest, I would rather put a brand new one in. I found my exact motor on Ebay, one for $97 plus shipping and the other for $283.99 but free shipping. They both look exactly the same, so I sent an email to ask the cheaper guy why his is so cheap and if it was new or factory refurbished. We shall see what he says.

you should also make sure in writing you are getting a warranty. most manufacturer won't warranty a product sold from another site. sometimes they might do it anyways, for political reasons I'm sure. but a lot of them don't have to. this is why I have an issue with installing parts the home owner has supplied. just a heads up.

No vacuum switch on integra.Combustion fan is controlled by mass air flow sensor,will cycle,we are testing the auger motor.Bob

ahh, I see.

 

[Mark_ms]

Frank,
I sent you a PM

 

[Frank Nuhfer]

you should also make sure in writing you are getting a warranty. most manufacturer won't warranty a product sold from another site. sometimes they might do it anyways, for political reasons I'm sure. but a lot of them don't have to. this is why I have an issue with installing parts the home owner has supplied. just a heads up.

ahh, I see.

Altmartion,
I believe you get what you pay for. I am reluctant to buy the cheaper motor because his doesn't look like my OEM, but at $97, I could replace it every other year and probably be ahead. HOWEVER, since this motor is so difficult for me to remove & reinstall, I don't want to do it any more than necessary. I have contacted both sellers on Ebay, and both told me about their motor. The cheaper motor is not from Austria and doesn't look like my OEM motor, but he said it would work. The more expensive is my motor, and all my settings on my stove are set for this exact motor.

It's kind of like do I buy an AC Delco alternator from the Chevy dealer or do I go to Autozone and buy the aftermarket alternator? That's how I see it.

 

[Frank Nuhfer]

Frank,
I sent you a PM

Out of curiosity, how do you send a PM?

 

[Mark_ms]

Out of curiosity, how do you send a PM?

I clicked on your name below avavtar, there is a option for starting a "conversation"