Baby Bear Top discharge installed!!!

[WatersEdge]

So excited about the top dicharge and smoke baffle install! I will be posting pictures and exactly what I done. Sure h op e a Coaly appoves.. ;-)

 

[coaly]

I'm not the one that has to approve of it, hope you did some research first. Originally the Flue Pipe was 6 inch OD X 12 Ga. X 5 inch long. Later stoves used thicker wall up to 1/4 inch with 6 inch ID to fit 6 inch stove pipe. It needs to extend into stove 3 inches, especially a top vent.

 

[WatersEdge]

I'm not the one that has to approve of it, hope you did some research first. Originally the Flue Pipe was 6 inch OD X 12 Ga. X 5 inch long. Later stoves used thicker wall up to 1/4 inch with 6 inch ID to fit 6 inch stove pipe. It needs to extend into stove 3 inches, especially a top vent.

Alright well still no pictures to upload but I am sitting outside when it is 10° and have lit my first fire in the stove. I did use 6" inside diameter pipe that is 3/8 thick. I did install the pipe at 2.5 inches though. I hope that half inch doesn't ruin it. I built the smoke baffle at 8.5 inches x 13 inches. I currently have a 3' section of stove pipe burning it outside just to see how it was gonna do. It is doing good so far. Any more advice is awsome.

 

[coaly]

You did good then. Can't compare it to what it will do when connected to a chimney.
Outside at 10* you can take a selfie setting on the stove! That would be a first.

 

[WatersEdge]

I'm a tell you one thang. That rascal had that 3' piece of stove pipe lookin like a turbine engine!! With a stove temp. Of 550° it was producing a 12 inch flame out the top of the stove pipe when the front damper was opened 2 turns. Of course all this is with no damper in the piece of stove pipe. It is gonna be a long 6 months before I can install it. The wife has a list of " honey do's " that must be completed first.

Wit the modifications that I have done. Do you expect that it will function properly Coaly? Due to the top discharge do you think I could make the smoke baffle 10"? It is currently drawing very very good.

 

[coaly]

Yeah, outside like that you need a pipe damper almost shut all the time. Then it slows the oxygen going in and smokes. It will work fine.
Always think of the chimney as the engine that drives the stove. You're pushing the car down a big hill now without an engine. You're not using any chimney to take advantage of atmospheric air pressure to make the stove go.
Baffle size and smoke space depends on chimney. The larger the chimney, (oversize for stove outlet) the more heat the chimney requires to make the same draft as a smaller chimney the correct size. So the smaller the baffle and larger the smoke space needed to leave more heat up - along with efficiency loss. A 6 inch insulated chimney about 15 feet to the top measured from the floor the stove sits on likes the minimum smoke space.
Running it with no chimney is like a wild fire rising up the short pipe allowing most of the heat directly out. It rises up the pipe just because hot air rises, it's still expanding, and it's out. No dwell time in the stove to absorb heat and radiate out. So you don't have any "draw", and don't need any since you don't have a huge column of heavy air in a flue to overcome. When you have a chimney, the hot gasses inside are lighter than cold air outside, and create a temperature differential between inside and outside of flue. That relates to a pressure differential, the greatest being at the stove collar. (lowest pressure area) So atmospheric air pressure PUSHES into the stove to fill the void feeding oxygen to the fire. The lower the air pressure due to weather, the less push you have into the stove; requiring larger intake opening or opening damper more. Connector pipe, elbows, and damper all add resistance to flow slowing draft. Detrimental to what the chimney is trying to do. The object is keeping flue temperature above 250* all the way up avoiding water vapor to condense in flue, allowing smoke particles to stick, creating creosote. So about 300* to 350* entering an insulated flue should stay above the critical temp all the way up. It should also give you double that temperature on the stove top. Without baffle, the higher top in back will be hotter. With baffle, the front becomes hotter. The longer the baffle, the longer the exhaust path and longer the burning gasses are in the stove. The more it changes direction, and the more turbulence, the better. (the extended flue inside requires gasses to go from the top down and around to get out) Keeping that in mind makes a better baffle. You can't do much with the small firebox on a Baby Bear since the fuel load is always up to the baffle plate. That allows the flames to always be touching the plate called flame impingement. That cools the flame tips, reducing burn zone temperature, but the plate radiation increases temperature as well. So the steeper the angle, the less impingement. Any baffle is better than none, and you'll notice a remarkable reduction in smoke, by raising the combustion zone temperature.