Bad vacuum switch on englander pvd25? Help!

[Ribcage]

I have a 2004 englander pvd25 that I bought used last year. Had the same issue last year where the burn pot would fill up and pellets were not completely burning threw. I had the same issue this year, cleaned it out, spoke to englander and was told to switch out the gaskets which I did yesterday. I also did the leaf blower trick but the door closed during the process and now the stove will only start up for 10 seconds and I get an E1 code. I may have ruptured the vacuum switch by the door closing. A) how can you tell which one is bad & B) can I only order them online? Please help!

 

[Kiver]

I do not have this stove but you may have ruptured the vacuum switch. Can anyone elaborate on this for this stove??

 

[CladMaster]

You can bypass the switch by connecting the two wires that connect to the switch (unplug the stove from the mains before you do anything).

Do not leave the stove un-attended in this state as the fail-safe is no longer working, make sure you order at least 2 of these switches, that way you have a spare.

As you look at the stove head on with the door open, right side the near the burn pot is a hole, this hole has a tube on the back of it that goes to the vacuum switch at the back on the same side.

The one on the left is for the exhaust.

Hope this helps.

 

[Arti]

I think he has 2 vacuum switches. One goes to the firebox and the other one is on the exhaust blower.
Gently draw a vacuum on the hose and you should hear a click if the switch is good. It won't taste very good but is quick and easy.

 

[Ribcage]

I think he has 2 vacuum switches. One goes to the firebox and the other one is on the exhaust blower.
Gently draw a vacuum on the hose and you should hear a click if the switch is good. It won't taste very good but is quick and easy.

 

[Ribcage]

So upon taking the back off I checked to make sure that the vacuum hoses were connected which they were but the igniter was out of place.. I think I put it back where it belongs but stove still will not start.. I have added some pics to see if this is accurate.. Also I am wondering how I can bypass the switch until the new ones come in?

 

[CladMaster]

See my post above on how to bypass the switches.

You can start the stove manually just like you would with a fire outside, paper / card, some pellets and a match with the stove on. Do not use liquid fuel.

 

[Ribcage]

See my post above on how to bypass the switches.

You can start the stove manually just like you would with a fire outside, paper / card, some pellets and a match with the stove on. Do not use liquid fuel.

 

[Ribcage]

The stove won't stay on at all and the pellets do not feed. I can still do it that way?

 

[CladMaster]

The stove won't stay on at all and the pellets do not feed. I can still do it that way?

Once you have connected the two wires together for the switch the stove will stay on.

You need to find out which switch is not working by doing a test.

Connect the two wires together from one of the switches, run the stove, if needed, light the stove manually (instructions are on the lid to the hopper).

If the stove does not stay on, reconnect the wires to the switch and do the same thing with the other switch. There is a slim chance that both switches are shot and so you will need to connect the wires for both switches.

 

[Arti]

Toward the back of the stove are 2 round things with wires and hoses going to them. Looks like the item in the picture.
Disconnect the hose from the stove and suck on it. If it clicks then the switch is more than likely good. Hook it back up and disconnect the hose from the switch and blow thru it this will make sure it's not plugged with dirt.
The wires, ignitor etc didn't move when you cleaned the stove so they don't need to be moved or adjusted !!