baker no 224
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Also took it apart to sand some of the areas and can’t figure out how to put the handles back on the doors
Do I need to put a pipe on top would like to use it at my river lot outside for heat there and can I paint it should I leave the blue since I think it is original color
The slider vent is on the flue outlet. That piece is missing. Also, the base for the stove is missing. It should not be used without these pieces. It's unlikely that parts will be available except from an antique stove restorer. The Baker Stove Works factory burned down in the 1930s I think.
Yes, it will need at least a 4' length of flue pipe. Set it up on some blocks on a cement pad. You don't want to catch any leaves on fire.
What do you need to know? It's an antique coal stove.
Do you have the grate that goes between the upper door area where there should be a cast iron burn pot and the bottom ash area? (air intake) That is the first piece to wear out, rust away or melt.
You "can" burn wood in any coal stove, just not efficiently. It will burn fast and not heat nearly as well.
The handle is inserted through the door, then the latch is put on so the square portion of handle turns the latch inside. It must be put on the handle in the correct position, so when the handle is in the closed position, the large ear will contact the stove opening to pull it tight. Then put a washer and nut on it. Both handle install and work the same.
You need the window covering which is called isinglass or mica. The two small holes in the upper door get machine screws through them and there should be a metal piece that matches the viewing holes opening. The mica goes on the back side of door, and the inner frame pinches it against door to hold it in place. Low quality Mica is cheap, you don't need expansive clear. It is peeled from a rock, brittle, and was used for high temperature glass. If you don't want to make it ike original, you can cut a piece of sheet metal, such as used in air ducting, and put it on the inside to close off viewing openings. Use the same two small holes for machine screws and nuts.
The reason it needs to be closed is because of what makes a stove work. The pipe you need on it is called connector pipe. That normally connects a stove to a chimney. The chimney is not just to let the smoke out. It makes the stove work. Air can not get into a box to allow a fire to burn without rising out a stack. This rising hot exhaust is lighter than the cooler air outside the stack. The rising gasses create a low pressure area in the stove which allows atmospheric pressure to PUSH air into the stove to feed oxygen to the fire to make it burn. This air is adjusted with the slider at bottom. The fire will burn much too fast and hot if not controlled to within what that intake vent will allow into the stove. So all those holes for viewing must be sealed to prevent air from rushing in, burning so fast it will overheat the stove and you have no control of it.
Do you have the grate that goes between the upper door area where there should be a cast iron burn pot and the bottom ash area? (air intake) That is the first piece to wear out, rust away or melt.
You "can" burn wood in any coal stove, just not efficiently. It will burn fast and not heat nearly as well.
The handle is inserted through the door, then the latch is put on so the square portion of handle turns the latch inside. It must be put on the handle in the correct position, so when the handle is in the closed position, the large ear will contact the stove opening to pull it tight. Then put a washer and nut on it. Both handle install and work the same.
You need the window covering which is called isinglass or mica. The two small holes in the upper door get machine screws through them and there should be a metal piece that matches the viewing holes opening. The mica goes on the back side of door, and the inner frame pinches it against door to hold it in place. Low quality Mica is cheap, you don't need expansive clear. It is peeled from a rock, brittle, and was used for high temperature glass. If you don't want to make it ike original, you can cut a piece of sheet metal, such as used in air ducting, and put it on the inside to close off viewing openings. Use the same two small holes for machine screws and nuts.
The reason it needs to be closed is because of what makes a stove work. The pipe you need on it is called connector pipe. That normally connects a stove to a chimney. The chimney is not just to let the smoke out. It makes the stove work. Air can not get into a box to allow a fire to burn without rising out a stack. This rising hot exhaust is lighter than the cooler air outside the stack. The rising gasses create a low pressure area in the stove which allows atmospheric pressure to PUSH air into the stove to feed oxygen to the fire to make it burn. This air is adjusted with the slider at bottom. The fire will burn much too fast and hot if not controlled to within what that intake vent will allow into the stove. So all those holes for viewing must be sealed to prevent air from rushing in, burning so fast it will overheat the stove and you have no control of it.
still having problems putting handles on and where can i buy mica at and i need to replace the wire screen on the front top door but cant find where to buy that at eitherand yes i have the grate that is between the two doors on the inside of stove
I think your pictures are not showing all the parts you have for your stove. Missing hardware to hold door cover, handle nuts, grates, shaker handle?
If you are using this outdoors with wood, any screen material over the loading door holes is fine, it will rust away shortly if unprotected metal is not painted with high temp primer and high temp paint. Most is baked on enamel which is very hard. You will want to run with rear flue vent wide open to slow flow up stack. Stoves are designed for a chimney. You have no resistance to flow, and operating principals or efficiency is absent without a proper chimney.
If heating inside, or restoring, you need mica. (along with base) Mica is available at Woodman's Parts Plus.
Did you remove screen material from loading door that is not in your pictures? Pieces of what looks like thin broken glass pieces that feel like plastic (slightly flexible) with it?
Do you have the inner frame for the upper door (this is called the loading door) to hold it in place?
For outdoor use simply install stainless steel screen wire (screen door and window type) on the back, pinched between frame and door.
Do you have the nuts for the handles?
Put them together off the stove first to see how they fit together. Notice how the ear on the latch part with square hole will contact the inside of stove opening to pull it tight. The small ear is a handle stop to prevent from rotating all the way around.
With door open, insert handle in the position you want it when latched. Install the latch piece on the back so it would be in the latched position (9 0'clock from outside, 3 0'clock looking at back of door). Install nut. Use silver anti-seize on all hardware if restoring.
If you are using this outdoors with wood, any screen material over the loading door holes is fine, it will rust away shortly if unprotected metal is not painted with high temp primer and high temp paint. Most is baked on enamel which is very hard. You will want to run with rear flue vent wide open to slow flow up stack. Stoves are designed for a chimney. You have no resistance to flow, and operating principals or efficiency is absent without a proper chimney.
If heating inside, or restoring, you need mica. (along with base) Mica is available at Woodman's Parts Plus.
Did you remove screen material from loading door that is not in your pictures? Pieces of what looks like thin broken glass pieces that feel like plastic (slightly flexible) with it?
Do you have the inner frame for the upper door (this is called the loading door) to hold it in place?
For outdoor use simply install stainless steel screen wire (screen door and window type) on the back, pinched between frame and door.
Do you have the nuts for the handles?
Put them together off the stove first to see how they fit together. Notice how the ear on the latch part with square hole will contact the inside of stove opening to pull it tight. The small ear is a handle stop to prevent from rotating all the way around.
With door open, insert handle in the position you want it when latched. Install the latch piece on the back so it would be in the latched position (9 0'clock from outside, 3 0'clock looking at back of door). Install nut. Use silver anti-seize on all hardware if restoring.
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We would just be spitballing price. A stove in this condition can bring a nice price to the right buyer. Contact some of the antique stove restorers to find out its value. I am guessing $1000-1500, but that is just a guess.
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