Baker Stove temperature drop

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kcopenheaver

New Member
Nov 28, 2017
20
PA
I am new to the wood stove world, and my challenge is keeping the temperature at the 300+ level, thus reducing the buildup of creosote.
Unless I have the air intakes open wide and a significant amount of wood in the stove, the temp drops as soon as the wood burns down. Yes, I have coals, but the temp drops way past 300. I can get the temp back up by adding more wood and opening the air intake (having closed it once the fire was burning well), but this requires adding a good bit of wood at regular intervals.
 
Please provide informations on the stove and details on the wood you are burning. Also the type of chimney, the length, indoor or not and under what climate you are living. The draftyness of the house and isolation level and size could also be important variables
 
How seasoned is the wood? I'd look there first.
 
Well, I purchased it locally and it is to be mostly Ash. It is dry enough to easily split into smaller pieces. I don't know if that is an indicator of how seasoned it is.
No it isnt at all. But no matter what your temps will drop once you get to coals. How long that takes will depend on species the stove the ammount of wood you load the draft and many many other variables.
 
How far closed should the damper be once I get a good fire burning? and the intakes (2 on the front of the stove (Baker) that rotate to adjust the air.
 
How far closed should the damper be once I get a good fire burning? and the intakes (2 on the front of the stove (Baker) that rotate to adjust the air.
Again that is going to vary greatly depending on many variables.
 
Where are you taking these temp readings and with what type of thermometer. Stovetop, flue gas magnet, flue gas probe, IR in specific location? Sounds to me that you may be burning just fine and a cooling cycle once flame ceases is normal. Cool flue temps with unburnt solid fuel in the firebox is cause for worry, smoldering fire, unless you are running a cat stove, then you are beyond my bit of knowledge and experience.
 
Where are you taking these temp readings and with what type of thermometer. Stovetop, flue gas magnet, flue gas probe, IR in specific location? Sounds to me that you may be burning just fine and a cooling cycle once flame ceases is normal. Cool flue temps with unburnt solid fuel in the firebox is cause for worry, smoldering fire, unless you are running a cat stove, then you are beyond my bit of knowledge and experience.
It is magnetic and placed about 18" up from the stove surface. Yes, unless I have the intakes open wide, the temp dies, but then I am burning a lot of wood that way.
 
Ok, it sounds like an older, pre EPA stove. Solid door, or with a viewing window? Can you post a pic or 2? Can you explain your setup? Chimney height and what it's made of? Also what are you burning?
 
Brick chimney, used by previous owner with pellet stove. Where the chimney above roof is roughly 4 feet
 

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It is magnetic and placed about 18" up from the stove surface. Yes, unless I have the intakes open wide, the temp dies, but then I am burning a lot of wood that way.
You are going to burn allot of wood in that big old stove.
 
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Creosote buildup will not be an issue at the coaling stage. The volatiles have burned off by then. But yes, this stove will be hungry.

Is the basement uninsulated? If so, that is also going to increase wood consumption by up to a third more.
 
As others have said for an older non-epa stove she will be hungry, especially when run hot trying to avoid creosote forming flue temps. Get a routine down for flue pipe inspections and cleanings. Easy enough for the diy type to do their selves. You will learn the balance of heating your space with clean/hot fires while not overheating and choking the air down without cooling temps too much. I think you will have to experiment with different size fires/amount of wood, to regulate the heat output.
 
Try to get as dry wood as possible. Moisture in the wood creates a cooler fire.
 
Creosote buildup will not be an issue at the coaling stage. The volatiles have burned off by then. But yes, this stove will be hungry.

Is the basement uninsulated? If so, that is also going to increase wood consumption by up to a third more.
The nice thing with there being no insulation in the floors is that the heat radiate sup through the floors to keep the upstairs about 70 or higher.
 
As others have said for an older non-epa stove she will be hungry, especially when run hot trying to avoid creosote forming flue temps. Get a routine down for flue pipe inspections and cleanings. Easy enough for the diy type to do their selves. You will learn the balance of heating your space with clean/hot fires while not overheating and choking the air down without cooling temps too much. I think you will have to experiment with different size fires/amount of wood, to regulate the heat output.
I am getting a feel for how much wood and how open to run the intakes and for how long. I am seeing that a good bed of coals makes it much easier to keep the temp up.
 
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