I have an 026 w/ 16" bar. Looking to replace chain(s). Is this any good? http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=AMC 16 SS63
If not, what do you recommend?
If not, what do you recommend?
Bar and Chain question
- Thread starter freeburn
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smokinjay said:
++ 1
I have cut with lots of chains and in my opinion Stihl sells the best chains..
Good luck.....................
freeburn said:
Looks like Bailey's doesnt offer the Arbor Max bar in .050. They probably got a deal on the .063 that no one wants. I would look at other brands in .050 bars or shop elsewhere.
sorry
! bout past my limit....
yes .325 in .63
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=SVST+16+SS63&catID;=
! bout past my limit....yes .325 in .63
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=SVST+16+SS63&catID;=
the dealership is cheaper
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=BAWP+16+SS50&catID=664
heres a cheaper one
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=ORF+160SLGD025&catID=738
.325 in .50 gauge
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=BAWP+16+SS50&catID=664
heres a cheaper one
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=ORF+160SLGD025&catID=738
.325 in .50 gauge
That's OK if you got into bars. It turns out that I now have to replace the bar I have on. The bottom side is warped just enough that I can't flip it upside down. The part by the tip is worn pretty bad too. It was a used saw when I bought it. What's on there right now is the Stihl Duromatic. So back to the question. Now what? I've got two chains .325 16". Any recommendations as to bar length and chain? Essentially I could start over with the 026 body. I like the 16", plenty of power, but I'm wondering if 18" would be a bit better? I welcome your thoughts.
I'm looking for quality, and somewhat affordability, if I have to pay a little more, fine if it lasts it's worth it. And what's the deal with the replaceable tips? Specifically on the Windsor.
I'm looking to go 3/8 .050. All new chains, probably. So bar is the only thing in question. . .
I'm looking for quality, and somewhat affordability, if I have to pay a little more, fine if it lasts it's worth it. And what's the deal with the replaceable tips? Specifically on the Windsor.
I'm looking to go 3/8 .050. All new chains, probably. So bar is the only thing in question. . .
freeburn said:
with that saw I would stick with the 16in. bar it just performs much better and your chains will still work.
freeburn said:
yes that is the best set up for it... .050 gauge will be faster than the 063
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=ORF+160SLGD025&catID=738
I have had an 026 for years and I've used everything from 16" to 20" on it and I've used both large and small chain on it. I can tell you with some precision what works on them and what doesn't, having used them all on the same saw. Just for reference I have cut well over 100 cords of wood with the saw in the years I've owned it.
The best chain size I have found for an 026 is .050 gauge 3/8" chain on a 16" bar. The smaller .325 (.063 guage) chain works well on the saw on an 18" bar but the shorter bar with the larger chain works better in the saw by far. 20" is too much for the saw even with the skinny chain. The 3/8" chain will cut faster and last longer between sharpenings.
The time to switch the saw from .063 guage to .050 guage is when you are replacing the bar and chain anyway - the additional expense is only $6 for the drive sprocket. Its well worth it. As for the chain itself, my preference is for 33RSC Stihl chain.
By the way, there seems to be a lot of confusion above. If you've got an 026 (MS260) it either came with a .325, 063 guage bar and chain (most common) of some length or it came with a 3/8", .050 guage bar and chain (uncommon).
The best chain size I have found for an 026 is .050 gauge 3/8" chain on a 16" bar. The smaller .325 (.063 guage) chain works well on the saw on an 18" bar but the shorter bar with the larger chain works better in the saw by far. 20" is too much for the saw even with the skinny chain. The 3/8" chain will cut faster and last longer between sharpenings.
The time to switch the saw from .063 guage to .050 guage is when you are replacing the bar and chain anyway - the additional expense is only $6 for the drive sprocket. Its well worth it. As for the chain itself, my preference is for 33RSC Stihl chain.
By the way, there seems to be a lot of confusion above. If you've got an 026 (MS260) it either came with a .325, 063 guage bar and chain (most common) of some length or it came with a 3/8", .050 guage bar and chain (uncommon).
Kong said:
no confussion the 026 or 260 3/8 .050 is dog slow jmho and .325 can be had in 063 or 050 I perfere the 050- .325 just my 2 cents
anything to speed one up.
Kong said:
What I had was .325 w/ .063 bar and chain (stock). In speaking with my dealer he recommended 3/8" chain and .050 bar for more chips. That might be what I end up doing, not sure. Just debating whether to go with the the Stihl bar or something else. Dealer quoted $47 for an 18". Not sure what the 16" would be.
I understand that a thinner chain is going to cut faster, like a thin kerf saw blade it doesn't have to take as much out. But there is more cutter tooth there too on a wider chain (blade). Or am I not understanding this correctly.
By the way, I appreciate your suggestions! This information is great. Keep them coming even if they are disagreeing
freeburn said:
the 050 he is correct but the .325 is a faster chain for a 50cc saw imo the 260 gets very sticky with a 3/8 .050
unless he is talking about the 3/8 low profile that would be right
[quote author="freeburn" date="1261632387"][quote author="Kong" date="1261631662"]
What I had was .325 w/ .063 bar and chain (stock). In speaking with my dealer he recommended 3/8" chain and .050 bar for more chips. That might be what I end up doing, not sure. Just debating whether to go with the the Stihl bar or something else. Dealer quoted $47 for an 18". Not sure what the 16" would be.
I understand that a thinner chain is going to cut faster, like a thin kerf saw blade it doesn't have to take as much out. But there is more cutter tooth there too on a wider chain (blade). Or am I not understanding this correctly.
quote]
Its one of those odd things I guess, like why a 28 guage shotgun holds the best pattern of any. You put a 16" bar on that saw with a 3/8" chain and you're gonna love it. As luck would have it I have the receipt for the 16" bar right in front of me, it ran me $36.95 at the dealer, which means you could get one for about half that on E-Bay if you wanted. I don't know why the larger chain cuts better, maybe its something to do with kerf relative to the bar width. What interests me more is that it seems to go much longer between sharpenings. Because we carry lots of extra chains into the woods we don't hesitate at all to change chains at the first hint of dullness. Typically I'd go through 3 chains in a day with the .325" chain. Since I switched over to the 3/8" chain I've only changed a chain once during a day of cutting - so basically I'm getting a full day out of a chain.
Yes, cutting the larger kerf requires more power but when I went to the 3/8" chain I concurently moved down from an 18" bar to a 16" one. It was that reduction of 2" in bar length (4" shorter chain) that made up for the higher drag of the wider chain. So the end is that the wide chain speeds through the wood at the same rate as the narrower chain. Another impression, and this is one my son mentioned almost immediately. He said that that saw really self-fed itself into the wood where he had never really noticed it doing that before. It just makes the cutting that much closer to effortless - if I may abuse that word a bit. :~)
What I had was .325 w/ .063 bar and chain (stock). In speaking with my dealer he recommended 3/8" chain and .050 bar for more chips. That might be what I end up doing, not sure. Just debating whether to go with the the Stihl bar or something else. Dealer quoted $47 for an 18". Not sure what the 16" would be.
I understand that a thinner chain is going to cut faster, like a thin kerf saw blade it doesn't have to take as much out. But there is more cutter tooth there too on a wider chain (blade). Or am I not understanding this correctly.
quote]
Its one of those odd things I guess, like why a 28 guage shotgun holds the best pattern of any. You put a 16" bar on that saw with a 3/8" chain and you're gonna love it. As luck would have it I have the receipt for the 16" bar right in front of me, it ran me $36.95 at the dealer, which means you could get one for about half that on E-Bay if you wanted. I don't know why the larger chain cuts better, maybe its something to do with kerf relative to the bar width. What interests me more is that it seems to go much longer between sharpenings. Because we carry lots of extra chains into the woods we don't hesitate at all to change chains at the first hint of dullness. Typically I'd go through 3 chains in a day with the .325" chain. Since I switched over to the 3/8" chain I've only changed a chain once during a day of cutting - so basically I'm getting a full day out of a chain.
Yes, cutting the larger kerf requires more power but when I went to the 3/8" chain I concurently moved down from an 18" bar to a 16" one. It was that reduction of 2" in bar length (4" shorter chain) that made up for the higher drag of the wider chain. So the end is that the wide chain speeds through the wood at the same rate as the narrower chain. Another impression, and this is one my son mentioned almost immediately. He said that that saw really self-fed itself into the wood where he had never really noticed it doing that before. It just makes the cutting that much closer to effortless - if I may abuse that word a bit. :~)
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