Anyone else use this stuff. I’ve ran a couple gallons this winter. It’s been great so far. Half the price of Stihl or any other saw manufacturers brand. It’s non parifin based also.
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Bar Oil
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thisoldgoat
Burning Hunk
I went to my Stihl dealer and asked to buy a gallon of B/C oil, this is what he sold me. I thought it was kind of weird that he did not sell me Stihl branded product.
I'm no expert but this oil seemed to work as well as any.
I'm no expert but this oil seemed to work as well as any.
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
I’ve run through a bunch of that stuff. No problems with it it’s been as good as anything else I’ve used. Got it at my local Stihl dealer
I use the bar oil from tractor supply. $7 a gallon. I have had good luck with it too.
Buddy of mine gave me a 5 gallon bucket of Solest Polyol Ester Compressor oil, says he's used it for years with no problems. They change it out anytime they work on the compressor because it cannot have any moisture in it. It's clear as a bell, any thoughts on that?
Wood1Dennis
Burning Hunk
These posts about bar lube always make me think about my dad. He always used waste motor oil for the bars on his saws. My dad is passed for over 10 years, but I can still remember hem saying something like 'it was good enough for the engine until I drained it, it is good enough for a chain saw bar'. 
I don't don't go so far as to use waste oil, but I don't fret about what I buy. Usually its what is on sale!
I don't don't go so far as to use waste oil, but I don't fret about what I buy. Usually its what is on sale!
I have a 5 gal bucket in my shop where any "clean "used oil goes like tranny fluid,power stearing fluid hydrolic fluid ect.I save it for a friend that is a firewood cutter. He used to get 45gal drums of used hydrolic oil from a contractor.But like all good things that dried up for him.
I have a used oil burning furnace but i consider the clean used oil to good for the furnace.So going for bar lube is a better use.
I have a used oil burning furnace but i consider the clean used oil to good for the furnace.So going for bar lube is a better use.
These posts about bar lube always make me think about my dad. He always used waste motor oil for the bars on his saws. My dad is passed for over 10 years, but I can still remember hem saying something like 'it was good enough for the engine until I drained it, it is good enough for a chain saw bar'.
I don't don't go so far as to use waste oil, but I don't fret about what I buy. Usually its what is on sale!
I used waste motor oil for years when I did a lot of cutting. Whenever I changed oil in my vehicles, I'd pour the old stuff into a 5 gallon jug. That was before I got old and lazy. It was a win-win situation; it was a good way to get rid of the used oil and it was a source of free bar oil. Never had a problem with bar wear.
I read that vegetable oil is required of loggers in some areas such as national forests. It's cheaper that regular bar oil but the saw used more.
Anyone ever see bar oil with fungus spores in it? Buddy of mine told me about it but I've never looked into it. I just use Mobil One left over from the 5qt jug after my 4.7qt change haha
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
I think a jug of canola oil in the shed has some kind of microbial life in it. Before filling the saw I shake the jug and get on with my life. I get vegetable oil for a few bucks a gallon.
Bar oil needs to have a high film thickness and EP properties which used oil don't have but then all my waste oil from the vehicles and farm tractors goes into the waste oil furnace in the shop anyway. I always used Stihl bar oil until I discovered MVP bar oil at Menards. Nice sticky stuff and 1/3rd the price of the Stihl elixirs
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
All oils of any type form a film, that's part of what makes them oil. My saws all run vegetable or canola oil in all temperatures. The saws with adjustable oilers are set to minimum, but I use about a tank of oil for every tank of fuel. In the winter the oil tank will be about 1/4 to 1/3 full after one tank o fuel. The "true" bar and chain oils will last longer, but they are also toxic, but I'm not here to debate that.
WoodBurnerInWI
Feeling the Heat
I generally buy my chain oil in the 1 gallon containers because they seem to last about 2-4 months before needing to purchase more so prices don't really bother me since I'm not buying so much oil at once. I'll usually get the Echo brand oil from Home Depot for about $11 and that's worked well. Husqvarna oil is about the same price at Farm and Fleet so sometimes I'll get that if the Echo brand is out. In the past I've also used Super Tech brand sold at Wal Mart and Power Care brand sold at various stores. Everything I've used even the "cheap" stuff has worked fine in my saws no major issues. I refill the oil with every gas refill so a long day of cutting might see 6 to 8 refills on the gas and oil.
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
Have you ever wondered how piss gets all over the toilet, under the seat, on the bottom, etc? It's because when you stand up to pee your urine becomes an aerosol into your bathroom. The urine aerosol will then land all over your toilet, shower, toothbrush, sink, handles, and everything else in the room, unless you sit to pee. So much like I sit to pee in my home I use vegetable based oils in my saw which I operate next to my home and well. Even though you don't lick your bar you are still ingesting plenty of petroleum oil and getting it all over your body. There's also a logosol mill on the way to my house, so I don't want to get petroleum oil all over a bunch of lumber that's going into my house. The petroleum oil will also be all over your firewood which then gets released into the atmosphere as additional NOx and CO after burning it in your stove or in a slash pile.I don't make it a habit of licking my bars............
Do whatever you want, but don't ridicule me for looking out for my own health and safety. So yeah, I'm definitely going to shame you for being a tool. Plenty of other folks who like to use traditional bar and chain oil didn't have to be a tool, but you did.
Wow, All I said was I don't lick my bar and you go off the deep end. I don't care if you lube your bar with lard. Where I piss in none of your business but I will tell you I prefer out back behind the barn.....
Candidly I never contemplated the physics of urinating, but I appreciate your in depth explanation.... not.
I was on an industry task force on antimicrobial soaps in the 1990s. Charles Gerba, U. of AZ, has studied aerosolization of toilet flushing. He recommends closing toilet seat covers. Ends up on your toothbrush.
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With the ongoing shortage of TP, my wife has been bugging me for one of those power wash toilet seats....lol Not on my toothbrush, My teeth come out at night and get soaked in their container for reinstallation in the morning............
Kinda makes you wonder if the urine on the toothbrush may have accelerated up the demise of the original toothWith the ongoing shortage of TP, my wife has been bugging me for one of those power wash toilet seats....lol Not on my toothbrush, My teeth come out at night and get soaked in their container for reinstallation in the morning............
That's the type I've settled on, it works great and I can pick it up at Lowe's for $12 a gallon.
Kinda makes you wonder if the urine on the toothbrush may have accelerated up the demise of the original tooth
Not really. The after effects of heavy chemo did however. Other 'parts' as well.
