Bixby On Going Problem

[Chered1]

i have been here in Nov 2015. My in laws bought this Bixby (thinking its a MaxFire 115 as the S/N is in the 7,000's) but was missing both the right and left cover plates. They finally got a couple fabricated and put into the Bixby 3 weeks ago . We have used corn, regular wood pellets and premium hardwood pellets. When we have hit the ON button, it goes through its cycle and then after 3 minutes it sets the corn/pellets on fire. It runs like a top for the first 7-8 minutes. Throws out super hot air and then the flame dies to a point where you just see glowing ambers in the burn pot. I have spent hours adjusting exhaust fan and feed rates and it's the same thing. I know that there is time between every movement of the dials but it's so frustrating. If this stove would only run all the time like it does the first 7-8 minutes it would be the best pellet stove.
It seems that it doesn't feed enough pellets to keep the flame going. I have adjusted so pellets have fallen every 38-40 seconds to pellets falling every 18-20 seconds. Nothing seems to work. Rona has helped before. He was the one that pointed out the the cover plates we're missing some.
Reading the manual they talk about using Bixby venting as these stove pipes were designed for the Bixby. I don't know if what they have are Bixby designed stove pipes. I've looked up the price of these stove pipes and noticed they are very very expensive. I have a feeling that they didn't pay the money for Bixby pipes. Are there any other brand that would work as well as a Bixby designed pipe. Sure would be nice to get this thing working. Any further advice would be helpful..

 

[Lake Girl]

Read a review about the Bixby venting and it sound like the Selkirk direct temp with the interior pipe carrying out exhaust and outside air being carried in and warmed through the space between the interior pipe and exterior pipe. Not sure how the exterior air is introduced to the combustion chamber on the Bixby though... off for a bit of search!

Selkirk does make an adapter for the Bixby...
(broken link removed to http://www.woodstovepro.com/store/Selkirk-3-Direct-Temp-Multi-Fuel-Bixby-Appliance-Adapter-Black-SC03AD08B-p28053.html)

Bixby venting starter kit ... http://www.dndfarmsupply.com/bistvekit.html

I would suspect that the type of venting used does not provide air for combustion which could potentially explain the shut-downs... fire starved for air??

 

[Chered1]

Read a review about the Bixby venting and it sound like the Selkirk direct temp with the interior pipe carrying out exhaust and outside air being carried in and warmed through the space between the interior pipe and exterior pipe. Not sure how the exterior air is introduced to the combustion chamber on the Bixby though... off for a bit of search!

Hi Lakegirl,

I read that too. I sent in laws email asking if they knew what kind of pipe they have on it. Like I said I don't think they would spend the money to get the Bixby designed pipe. A 24" long piece goes for around $130. They have at least 7-8 feet of pipe on the stove and I don't think they have that kind of money. That's why I was wondering if there was other brands that would work. I'm hoping they know what brand name they purchased. Thanks for your reply.

 

[Lake Girl]

Selkirk DT-M isn't cheap either

How is the venting set-up? length of horizontal, vertical, elbows (how many and degrees)?

 

[ohbix]

If obtaining outside air is the problem, then one can remove the black flex pipe from the intake air/exhaust box splitter and connect the black flex to a 3" outside air connection. I use the Bixby pipe on mine as I have a 24" straight out vent. No problems. Blume uses 3" exhaust pipe and separates the intake air as described above. re: run problem, after 8 min, is the exhaust fan still running? Have you timed the feed drop interval after startup? I think the startup program runs for approx. 15 - 20 minutes, and isn't affected by the feed/fan knobs nor the selected heat level. If it runs fine at startup, then I'm not certain intake air is the issue. Another thought is possibly the firmware. You would need a cable to reinstall, or could send the board to Blume (or Rona??) to get it reinstalled. Hope you get it figured out; my stove has been set it and forget it.

 

[Chered1]

Selkirk DT-M isn't cheap either

How is the venting set-up? length of horizontal, vertical, elbows (how many and degrees)?

I think it's like 7 feet of vertical then 90° elbow with about 1 1/2 feet horizontal to the thimble then out the side of the house.

 

[Lake Girl]

Sounds like ohbix has a potential answer ... disconnecting the flex at the splitter! At least will determine if lack of outside air is the problem...

Does it stop feeding pellets or just doesn't feed fast enough? page 32 in manual: https://www.bixbystoveparts.com/pdf/2654b9ba20600fd5d36a03beb0d03e88Owner_Manual_115_2020866_Rev.pdf

Ruled out thermocouple disconnection?

Rona or ohbix will be of more help from here as I have never seen a Bixby and have no idea of its quirks in operation.

 

[Chered1]

Sounds like ohbix has a potential answer ... disconnecting the flex at the splitter! At least will determine if lack of outside air is the problem...

Does it stop feeding pellets or just doesn't feed fast enough? page 32 in manual: https://www.bixbystoveparts.com/pdf/2654b9ba20600fd5d36a03beb0d03e88Owner_Manual_115_2020866_Rev.pdf

Ruled out thermocouple disconnection?

Rona or ohbix will be of more help from here as I have never seen a Bixby and have no idea of its quirks in operation.

Thank you for your input Lakegirl. It seems that just maybe the motherboard ought to be looked at. Have sent Rona a request for a cost to re-program or whatever it is they would do. Since Buxby is no longer in business its difficult at best to find any repairmen around where the stove is. Again thanks.

 

[Chered1]

If obtaining outside air is the problem, then one can remove the black flex pipe from the intake air/exhaust box splitter and connect the black flex to a 3" outside air connection. I use the Bixby pipe on mine as I have a 24" straight out vent. No problems. Blume uses 3" exhaust pipe and separates the intake air as described above. re: run problem, after 8 min, is the exhaust fan still running? Have you timed the feed drop interval after startup? I think the startup program runs for approx. 15 - 20 minutes, and isn't affected by the feed/fan knobs nor the selected heat level. If it runs fine at startup, then I'm not certain intake air is the issue. Another thought is possibly the firmware. You would need a cable to reinstall, or could send the board to Blume (or Rona??) to get it reinstalled. Hope you get it figured out; my stove has been set it and forget it.

Thanks ohbix. I'm afraid i dont know where the splitter you talk about is located. I'm asuming it's located somewhere in the back of the stove. I have timed the pellet drop after startup and at first it was approx 48 secs between drops. I did get it to drop every 18 secs but a flame burn never occurred. I could see the pellets in the burn pot just glowing red. Nothing like tge flame you get at startup.

 

[ohbix]

Did you check that the thermocouple wire is firmly secured to the motherboard? It's the stiff copper colored wire w/ an American flag label on it. I believe it attaches to J8. It is notorious for shaking loose when one moves the stove or pokes around the mechanics. As to the air splitter, remove the right side panel and rear. The separator/splitter box has the exhaust connection on the backside, and the fresh air/flex connected on the side. If you haven't done so, I'd suggest you download the manuals etc from bixbystoveparts.com. Lots of photos and helpful information. Good luck.

Another thought. Is or was a thermostat connected to the stove? I don't recall a jumper on mine (I run w/out stat), but I know other stoves have jumper wires if a thermostat is not connected.

 

[Chered1]

Did you check that the thermocouple wire is firmly secured to the motherboard? It's the stiff copper colored wire w/ an American flag label on it. I believe it attaches to J8. It is notorious for shaking loose when one moves the stove or pokes around the mechanics. As to the air splitter, remove the right side panel and rear. The separator/splitter box has the exhaust connection on the backside, and the fresh air/flex connected on the side. If you haven't done so, I'd suggest you download the manuals etc from bixbystoveparts.com. Lots of photos and helpful information. Good luck.

Another thought. Is or was a thermostat connected to the stove? I don't recall a jumper on mine (I run w/out stat), but I know other stoves have jumper wires if a thermostat is not connected.

Thank you for ur imput. I'll check that thermocoupler wire and the air intake next time I go up to cabin. Yes I do have the manual. I dont know if it had a stat connected before they purchased but it doesn't have one now. I dont know if we'll ever get this thing to operate as it should. Of the tens of post that I've read so far it sounds like they bought a big can of worms. It's too bad. If it would just work like it does at startup it would be a nice stove.

 

[Lake Girl]

If you disconnect the fresh air intake from the splitter box, you might get it to actually run. Could just be that since you don't have the bixby venting, you're not getting air to the burn chamber. Make sure that there is no chance of exhaust getting in the house when you try ... not sure what the configuration is for that splitter.

Keep us posted...

 

[Chered1]

If you disconnect the fresh air intake from the splitter box, you might get it to actually run. Could just be that since you don't have the bixby venting, you're not getting air to the burn chamber. Make sure that there is no chance of exhaust getting in the house when you try ... not sure what the configuration is for that splitter.

Keep us posted...

Will do!

 

[Lake Girl]

Justed looked at the manual ... either you need a jumper or a thermosat. page 9

Not sure if you folks have found this yet ... may be worth the subscription fee ...
http://www.scribd.com/doc/3206542/Repair-KIt-Instructions-Bixby-Energy-Systems#scribd

For myself, the photos are helpful in figuring out this beast... especially connections for motherboard!
There are other guides there for the Bixby too. Worth it to have a look to see what else they uploaded.

The tech info on the Bixby was uploaded by Al Malley the Bixby Tech Rep....

 

[Chered1]

Did you check that the thermocouple wire is firmly secured to the motherboard? It's the stiff copper colored wire w/ an American flag label on it. I believe it attaches to J8. It is notorious for shaking loose when one moves the stove or pokes around the mechanics. As to the air splitter, remove the right side panel and rear. The separator/splitter box has the exhaust connection on the backside, and the fresh air/flex connected on the side. If you haven't done so, I'd suggest you download the manuals etc from bixbystoveparts.com. Lots of photos and helpful information. Good luck.

Another thought. Is or was a thermostat connected to the stove? I don't recall a jumper on mine (I run w/out stat), but I know other stoves have jumper wires if a thermostat is not connected.

As I was looking through the manual I noticed what is called Feeder Wheel Silicon Seal. I know that this seal is not on our Bixby. The metal frame is there but not the seal. It looks like it lays up against the feeder wheel. Do you know if this plays a big part in the operation of the stove.

 

[theblane]

As I was looking through the manual I noticed what is called Feeder Wheel Silicon Seal. I know that this seal is not on our Bixby. The metal frame is there but not the seal. It looks like it lays up against the feeder wheel. Do you know if this plays a big part in the operation of the stove.
View attachment 171313

That seal is essential. I also bought a used Bixby and our stove ran like crap until we got a lew one. Google Blume Ebay and message him on there. Get his # and ask him to buy a loop seal. I think he sells them for $14. You'll need to drill holes in your plate but it's easy.

Good luck

 

[Chered1]

That seal is essential. I also bought a used Bixby and our stove ran like crap until we got a lew one. Google Blume Ebay and message him on there. Get his # and ask him to buy a loop seal. I think he sells them for $14. You'll need to drill holes in your plate but it's easy.

Good luck

Ok. I have a new seal coming but I looked at the back of the stove to see how the pipe was attached. They have a DURAVENT pipe hooked up. It's not the Bixby Designed pipe thats 5" outer with 3" inner. Will this DURAVENT piping also effect the function?

That seal is essential. I also bought a used Bixby and our stove ran like crap until we got a lew one. Google Blume Ebay and message him on there. Get his # and ask him to buy a loop seal. I think he sells them for $14. You'll need to drill holes in your plate but it's easy.

Good luck

 

[Bioburner]

If the stove hopper seal is gone the stove is getting to much air without it going thru the pot and screwing up the temp probe sensor readings too. The seal is a major improvement over the original. The stove can operate with using duraleak as pictured IMO. Your just drawing air in from the inside of the home. That pipe design of Bixby is one reason for the stoves very high efficiency.
I think your getting closer.

 

[ohbix]

Yup, you need that seal. You can purchase high temp high silicone content 1/8" thick sheets, and cut multiples. I got a year from the original seal w/ pellets. My dealer had me test the seal using a high silicone high temp material he found, vs the Bixby standard, and that one was good for 3 years. Used it as the flat seal vs loop.

 

[rona]

Your exh temp probe would be my first guess. If you bend that rigid brown wire right it willstay connected to the board. Make sure it is connected to the large board and not the smaller igniter board. There is a place it will fit on the igniter board but it doesn't belong there.
It can be jarred loose very easy and the stove will start great but if that probe is not hooked up to the board it will drop to a idle then go out because the sensor didn't read a temp rise. The other solution could be that a thermostat was used before and disconnected. Then somebody failed to connected a wire which should connect both screws used to connect the thermostat.
Your exh is not a problem. That is how I connect most of the Bixbys I use. In fact if you notice under the exh pipe is a hole about 3 inches in diameter. It has a cap covering it. You can remove the cover then remove that furnace filter in back of the stove. You should see a black flex hose about 3 inches in diameter. You can re route that hose until it sticks out the hole under the exhaust and connect it to a outside fresh air source which is better then using the hot air your stove produced

 

[rona]

Your exh temp probe would be my first guess. If you bend that rigid brown wire right it willstay connected to the board. Make sure it is connected to the large board and not the smaller igniter board. There is a place it will fit on the igniter board but it doesn't belong there.
It can be jarred loose very easy and the stove will start great but if that probe is not hooked up to the board it will drop to a idle then go out because the sensor didn't read a temp rise. The other solution could be that a thermostat was used before and disconnected. Then somebody failed to connected a wire which should connect both screws used to connect the thermostat.
Your exh is not a problem. That is how I connect most of the Bixbys I use. In fact if you notice under the exh pipe is a hole about 3 inches in diameter. It has a cap covering it. You can remove the cover then remove that furnace filter in back of the stove. You should see a black flex hose about 3 inches in diameter. You can re route that hose until it sticks out the hole under the exhaust and connect it to a outside fresh air source which is better then using the hot air your stove produced

I could include that double pipe design is a double edged sword. The advantage is to prewarm the incoming air. This is fine for a short length of pipe but I have seen many examples of a basement install with long exh runs and the pipe only lasts one year before it is rusted and leaking. The reason is the cold air surrounding the inner pipe cools off the exh gases and then the soot drops and lays in the pipe causing rust and holes. When that happens the exh gets sucked into the incoming fresh air which is supposed to furnish oxygen for the flame resulting in very poor performance of the stove. This has happened many times. That is why I say if you can keep the two systems separate the stove will work better and save you the pipe expense.