Breckwell P24 Only Feeds Manual Not the Vacuum Switch

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JulietteInc

JulietteInc

New Member
Jan 4, 2015
14
Dawsonville, GA
www.julietteinc.net
Hi all, any help with this would be much appreciated. We have a 1992 Breckwell P24. Over the summer my husband replaced both blowers and it was working perfectly until a couple of weeks ago when it suddenly stopped feeding. We do have a green light and it will feed manually. I read on this forum to test the vacuum switch first so we bypassed it, the stove worked and we ordered a new vacuum switch. When we replaced the switch the stove still would not feed automatically but when we tried to bypass it again it wouldn't feed that way either. We have bypassed each of the other switches one at a time, each time the green light will come on and the stove will only feed manually. We did determine that the door gasket is leaking but I assume that if that were the problem the stove would have continued to feed with the vacuum switch bypassed. Can anyone suggest what we might try next? Thanks very much.
 
JulietteInc said:
Hi all, any help with this would be much appreciated. We have a 1992 Breckwell P24. Over the summer my husband replaced both blowers and it was working perfectly until a couple of weeks ago when it suddenly stopped feeding. We do have a green light and it will feed manually. I read on this forum to test the vacuum switch first so we bypassed it, the stove worked and we ordered a new vacuum switch. When we replaced the switch the stove still would not feed automatically but when we tried to bypass it again it wouldn't feed that way either. We have bypassed each of the other switches one at a time, each time the green light will come on and the stove will only feed manually. We did determine that the door gasket is leaking but I assume that if that were the problem the stove would have continued to feed with the vacuum switch bypassed. Can anyone suggest what we might try next? Thanks very much.
Click to expand...
I've had the same stove for 18 years before I upgraded to a new stove. I had the same problem whereas the green light would turn on but the auger would not feed. I troubleshot the control board to find that one of the timing chips failed. The timing chip was only 2 bucks and easy to replace with a soldering iron and solder sucker. I'm puzzled by the vacuum switch fix not working but a bypass not doing the trick leads me to believe the control board is not sending power to the auger.
 
dubbz said:
I've had the same stove for 18 years before I upgraded to a new stove. I had the same problem whereas the green light would turn on but the auger would not feed. I troubleshot the control board to find that one of the timing chips failed. The timing chip was only 2 bucks and easy to replace with a soldering iron and solder sucker. I'm puzzled by the vacuum switch fix not working but a bypass not doing the trick leads me to believe the control board is not sending power to the auger.
Click to expand...

Hi dubbz,
Thanks for that. We will check it out.
Andi
 
The Vaccum switch might just be doing it's job. In other words you could actually have an air leak and it is tripping the switch. Try the following:

Possible Causes for a vacuum issue: AKA ERR 2 or AIR FLOW ISSUE

Gasket around door or glass not sealing properly.

Leak in the gasket around the draft fan and the draft fan not clean.

Unit has not been cleaned: firebox, underneath firepot, behind clean-outs on inside of unit, brass port inside firebox clogged, vacuum hose clogged-brittle-cracked, exhaust pipe clogged, exhaust pipes not sealed, improper venting—excessive horizontal length—too many elbows—vented INTO chimney, and the last thing to rule out is a faulty pressure switch itself.

90 to 95% of the time a faulty pressure switch is NOT the problem.

Just because the unit will run with the pressure switch “jumped” does not mean the pressure switch is faulty. It simply means we have told the unit to “ignore” the vacuum problem.

Cleaning firebox: clean thoroughly, remove firepot-clean underneath, clean brass port in firebox, remove ceramic brick(6039-6041)—tap on the back wall of the firebox several times to loosen any accumulated soot or ash-lift clean-out slides-remove any and all soot and ash—may need to use a flexible brush or some customers use a straightened wire clothes hanger and push any build-up in between the two clean-outs to one side or another and then remove.

Check gasket around door and glass and make sure it seals all the way around-that it is not frayed or burned allowing any gaps.(some 5500-5510 have gaps at bottom of glass gasket)

Make sure the door seals—doing paper test.

UNPLUG UNIT.

Remove side panel—left side facing stove—locate pressure switch-remove hose from pressure switch-blow through to make sure it is not clogged or cracked. Make sure it is connected well to the brass port going into the back of the firebox,--AGAIN—make sure it is not brittle cracked or damaged—reconnect hose to pressure switch making sure the clamp is tight.

Make sure the exhaust piping has been cleaned—all of it, not just the clean-out tee removed and emptied.

Make sure the piping is sealed—especially the first piece attached to the exhaust pipe.

THESE UNITS CANNOT BE VENTED INTO A CHIMNEY. THE PIPE-(3” or 4” PELL VENT)- MUST RUN ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP.
 
Is it still quit feeding or is it turning off for another reason? The only other causes for safety shut down of the auger are Hi limit disc, low limit disc and the hopper switch.
 
Does it start to feed then stop, or just not feed from the rip?
 
I would try jumping both the hi limit, hopper switch and low limit, one at a time, using either a metal paper clip or jumper wire. You may have already done one of these, not sure how you tested the hi limit. After that my only other thoughts would lead to a board. :(
 
Yep that's it on the high limit. Did you check the wires for damage or breaks?
 
I can't really speak to that, I've heard of places that do that. Working for the company though I can't really say to do that.
 
JulietteInc said:
no, it came with the house when we bought it. I just have a copy I downloaded.
Click to expand...
Ok I would send you one if you needed.

I would by pass the low limit then the hopper, check the wiring harness out for damage or breaks, then decide on the board.
 
The board NEW goes for just under $400, if that helps you decide what to do.

It would have to be one of those though. The hi limit, low limit, hopper switch, harness or board. That leaves nothing else it could be that I know of.
 
JulietteInc said:
thank you, I appreciate the offer. If we get a new board, I saw a digital board that would replace the analog one that we have now. Is that a big deal to change out?
Click to expand...
No but there is an plug adapter that you'll need
 
JulietteInc said:
thank you, I appreciate the offer. If we get a new board, I saw a digital board that would replace the analog one that we have now. Is that a big deal to change out?
Click to expand...

Here is a blurb found on the Mountain View Hearth Products web site regarding replacing your analog control board with a digital one.

Circuit board upgrade kit for Breckwell pellet stove models P20, P24, P26, P32I, P2000 & P2700. This kit also fits some P23 models. Double check the settings and serial number on your old board. This kit is an upgrade for the old style analog boards that had a dial with the settings "Low, B,C,D,E, Max". This kit uncludes a digital C-E-301 circuit board and a C-E-UH1000 wiring harness. The opening on the side of the stove for the circuit board may need to be enlarged. Kit comes with instructions on how to re-wire your stove. This kit replaces the C-E-950 & A-E-CB91 analog circuit boards which are no longer available.

http://www.stove-parts-unlimited.com/Breckwell-C-E-950-Circuit-Board-Upgrade-Kit-p/a-e-950kit.htm
 
JulietteInc said:
Hi Smokey, the only thing we have done so far is testing the switches.
Click to expand...

There have been cases where auger motors will run fine out of circuit and under no load and fail to turn when loaded. Sometimes the failure is intermittent. Sometimes it occurs only after the motor has warmed up. Sometimes it is the bushings being worn or gummed up. Then we have the cases of loose couplings that lead to funny (well not really) operation.

ETA: Just want to rule things out before you go for a new controller or controller repair and end up with the same thing happening.
 
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