Broken fiber board

[John vereecke]

hello, I have and American harvest 6039 pellet stove and have had pretty good success with it over the past 5-6 yrs. I experienced my 1st problem I can't figure out today. I was cleaning the stove and I dropped the fiber board and the corner broke off. I have been trying to research this problem but have had no success. I am curious if it is for looks or I really need it to function well. My Manuel tells me nothing and the Internet hasn't helped any. So I joined this site in hopes that someone knows the answer to my question. Thanks for your time and I hope I get some feedback
John

 

[Bioburner]

It tries to keep the rear of the stove from cooking and reflect some radiant heat forward and cover the couple holes in the rear wall.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Like BB says. It's there to look nice and reflect the radiant heat outward. I would not recommend running without it and I would recommend plugging both the holes in the back bulkhead with 1.5" diamerer electrical knockout plugs. The boards are fragiloe, no doubt, I'm on my second one myself. It's quite possible to buy Rutland refractory cement, make a form and pour your own backer board, making your own fake brick impressions or whatever you want.

 

[John vereecke]

Thank you for the feedback. I found out the fiber board is 90 bucks. And the Rutland refractory cement is $16 so guess which one I am gonna try Lol. I live out in the country so now the chore will be to find the cement without having to drive 120 mile round trip . After looking at prices for parts I am gonna try looking for used stoves for the parts. Burnpot was $200. Wow. Thx again

 

[SidecarFlip]

I live in east bumfart as well (or at the end of the electric line) so I get my stuff (Rutland refractory cement too) from Amazon.com and have it delivered to my door.

 

[Bioburner]

Both my local farm store,Mills Fleet Farm and Menards a large home supply carry the refractory cement.

 

[Snowy Rivers]

I agree on the above posts.

You can repair the original board with the refractory cement.

I have used it to patch up the backing on our small Whitfield.

As mentioned, don't run without it, as it protects the back of the firebox from erosion and excess heat, and it does look nice.

The brick boards are considered a consumable and one should figure on a new one, or at least a patchup every few years.

Good luck

Snowy

 

[SidecarFlip]

On the defunct IBC forum, there was a detailed thread about making you own backer board with Rutland refractory cement and a wooden form. It's really pretty easy, sort of like laying concrete but you have to 'cure' the newly made board in your kitchen oven to drive out all the moisture slowly and make the new board firm. Certainly not complicated, just time consuming.

I've learned to handle mine carefully (after a replacement at OEM cost). Careful handling and careful brushing of the accumulated ash from the surface goes a long way toward making them last a long time. Mine gets handled like it's egg shells. I'm on 7 years on this one and it's pristine yet.

 

[Bioburner]

On the defunct IBC forum, there was a detailed thread about making you own backer board with Rutland refractory cement and a wooden form. It's really pretty easy, sort of like laying concrete but you have to 'cure' the newly made board in your kitchen oven to drive out all the moisture slowly and make the new board firm. Certainly not complicated, just time consuming

Guess who

 

[Owen1508]

Isn't there a recent (begining of this season) thread from Don on this?

 

[SidecarFlip]

Guess who

I remember the thread, I did not remember it was you who posted it, I apologize for that. Was a long time ago and as of late, my memory has been slipping a bit.

I remember some of the details like making a wood form and the curing part. Don't remember how you 'embossed' the cement mix to get the texture in it however.

I think I also recollect ot took 2 bags of refractory cement (not sure on that however).

 

[Owen1508]

I remember the thread, I did not remember it was you who posted it, I apologize for that. Was a long time ago and as of late, my memory has been slipping a bit.

I remember some of the details like making a wood form and the curing part. Don't remember how you 'embossed' the cement mix to get the texture in it however.

I think I also recollect ot took 2 bags of refractory cement (not sure on that however).

I remember that thread from IBC as well. Well photographed too. Detailed in the cost as well. I learned quite a bit from that one Bio thanks.

 

[Bioburner]

I was not the one with that detailed of instructions. The computer with IBC stuff went south couple years ago. Have a friend that got me into blacksmithing and learned about refractory and the moldable casting was from lost wax methods for jewelry and pottery. Pottery, at least one college course I got something from.

 

[Wilbur Feral]

So, if any of you have done this, advice appreciated, please. I put a new firebrick panel in my old Whit this year, and even with exceptionally careful handling it broke on cleaning #2. Rather junk, frankly. Will make my own for $16 and a bit of time on a weekend. Now to figure out the best way to stregthen it, as they all break along centerline at drop chute. Now off to Amazon to order...

 

[Bioburner]

If the refractory acts like cement the addition of fiberglass fibers should work. Use to call the stuff angel hair. Or maybe embed a sheet of loose weave fiberglass like with tile backer board. I will be making a panel for the Quest shortly. Trying to figure if should make a solid form or wet sand to keep brick pattern.

 

[SidecarFlip]

If I remember correctly, the IBC board had a layer of hardware cloth (screen) laid in the wet mix, but it could have been fiberglass cloth too. I've been extremely careful with mine so no need to remake. Dang things are very fragile.

I wish the IBC knowledge base was still accessable.

 

[John vereecke]

Ok , I bought my cement today but now I am seeing I need to heat it up in the oven after it cures for a day. This can't be like making brownies can it. 350 for 30 min ?? Lol. Should I go low temp for 2 hrs or high temp for 30 min. Sorry to be so dumb about this but it is new for me baking cement. I want to do this this weekend so I appreciate your advice and thanks for past replies for they have helped a lot.

 

[CladMaster]

200F for 2 hours, then 300F for another 2 hours, then 350F for another 2, 475F for another 2 hours.

After this, let it cool in the oven over 4 hours or more.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Good answer. what does the instructions say? OOOps, forgot, we never follow instructions....

 

[hoverwheel]

200F for 2 hours, then 300F for another 2 hours, then 350F for another 2, 475F for another 2 hours.
...

My eye read this as 2,475F at first.

I said to myself, "Self, that is a SERIOUS over fire How the heck did he manage that and did his stove try to China syndrome?"

 

[Bioburner]

Try to get as much air out of the mix as possible. Use something that vibrates to shake the form to get the air to come up to the surface. Rapidly rapping the form helps. I plan on using a mouse sander.Reason for the slow baking is to dry the mix, if water gets left in the new board it can expand or worse if any water turns to steam.

 

[SidecarFlip]

What BB says. Humor aside, you want to 'cook' the board below the boiling point of water (212 degrees) for a period of time to drive out the moisture, IOW a 'slow oven'.